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Dumb question, removing wheels

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Old Feb 24, 2014 | 12:39 PM
  #11  
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That rear axle bolt isn't small. It requires some big sockets or wrenches. If you don't have them, it can cost you a bit to get them.

You don't sound comfortable with the job. That's fine. There is nothing wrong with having a shop do it as part of the tire change.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2014 | 03:04 PM
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For the rear axle nut I use a wrench from the pre sae size days it is a honking old thing but it works. Look at harbor freight or tractor supply for a cheapo wrench, it will work peachy.

I also took a junker wrench that was too small and it had a visit with the grinder !
 
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Old Feb 24, 2014 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by foxtrapper
That rear axle bolt isn't small. It requires some big sockets or wrenches. If you don't have them, it can cost you a bit to get them.

You don't sound comfortable with the job. That's fine. There is nothing wrong with having a shop do it as part of the tire change.
It's not that I'm uncomfortable with the job, I'm just unfamiliar with the method. I have the manual for my bike, but not the wrench. Indy wants $50 for the rear, and $30 for the front, or $20 a piece if I bring him the wheels. Mostly I asked because it seems like when the weight is removed the bike would tip toward the now heavier side. I'll check YouTube.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2014 | 04:56 PM
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what kind of jack do you have?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2014 | 05:05 PM
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My Glide leans pretty good on a standard style jack (cheap chinese) taking off the rear wheel, works best (least leaning on the jack) to pull the front one first. Not all jacks fit the same on all models of Harley, though, but you should be able to tell if it has more weight on one end once it's up. If you have a jack like the HF hi-lift holding the sporty in the picture, it's not a problem at all to take either wheel off, very stable. The little guy is demonstrating how easy it is with the right tools.

 
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Old Feb 24, 2014 | 06:04 PM
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Most difficult part is the brake calipers, especially on the rear. What I have done to make the rear easier is before I do anything I unbolt the lower right shock, loosen the upper bolt and rotate the right shock as far as I can to the rear then tighten the top bolt to hold the shock out of the way. Then when I get the axle out you can slide the caliper off the rotor and remove it out of the way. There are several axle wrenches available pretty cheap on Ebay usually. Its a 36mm wrench. You use it with a torque wrench to tighten the bolt to specs. If you use a beam torque wrench you can use that to loosen the nut also.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2014 | 06:47 PM
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I watched this video mentioned earlier:
While it looks doable, it also looks like a big PITA for $20 per wheel. I think I'll leave the headache for someone else.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2014 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by just plain john
It's not that I'm uncomfortable with the job, I'm just unfamiliar with the method. I have the manual for my bike, but not the wrench. Indy wants $50 for the rear, and $30 for the front, or $20 a piece if I bring him the wheels. Mostly I asked because it seems like when the weight is removed the bike would tip toward the now heavier side. I'll check YouTube.
Ok. That's $40 for the shop to pull the wheels, and reinstall them. Don't loose track of that.

Yes, the bike can tip either way on a jack. The wheels, especially the rear are astonishingly heavy. Front is a twiddly job, the rear is the heavier job. Can't remember if the front required pulling the calipers, but I think not, as I recall it being pesky refitting the rotors into the calipers. Rear I use my 3/4 drive socket set because it makes easy work of it. I pull the mufflers because I don't find it worthwhile not to. Fitting the wheel up, with the caliper and spacers isn't fun. Carefully jacking and lowering makes it easier. Setting belt tension (have that tool btw?) while tightening the bolt is mildly fiddly and irritating. The tensioner tries to rotate slack as you tighten.

All perfectly doable. I personally do it myself because I have the tools and equipment, and am masochistic enough to find things like this fun. If it sounds like a good excuse to buy more tools, go for it. If you wonder at all if this worth the $40 savings, it's probably not.
 

Last edited by foxtrapper; Feb 25, 2014 at 06:57 AM. Reason: typos
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Old Feb 24, 2014 | 09:33 PM
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In the process of doing the same myself. Harley wants 4 hrs labor to do the job. Yea kiss my ***. Indy wants 120. I took them off myself with extra hands to help. Wasnt bad at all. I like wrenching on my stuff. First time doing wheels. I just did as law abiding biker video did. Used a large crescent wrench for rear nut. Rear caliper was a pain. Just had to push pistons back in a bit to get it to slide past the wheel. You don't need belt tensioner tool. Theres a gauge on the guard you can use to get it close enough. Video shows it.

Can anyone tell me how to check if wheel is true straight? I marked the tension adjustment as it was from factory bc my belt was the right tension still. But one side the tensioner isn't rotated quite the same as the other side but my stock wheel wore well and in the middle. Got 15k out of it with a couple thousand left if I wanted.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2014 | 10:00 PM
  #20  
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just did a R&R rear tire.
Jack up so rear & front tire barely touches ground.
remove right side shock, remove the brake caliper,
remove left side lower shock bolt & swung it out of way.
lower jack and rear tire axle becomes more accessible. remove axle.
(may be some up/down jack adjustments here)
slip off belt
if jack is in the right place you can raise the bike and slide the tire out
 
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