I just got my FM 107 + b heads build running. Idles like crap and lower end is sluggish. Occasional pop thru the
A/C. Twist it and it rips. Got to be the tune. FM supplied it and I will talk to them next week, but does anyone have a good working tune for a FM 107, 10.25 CR , stg 1 intake and v& h monster ovals? Anything similar? I'd like to try and get it a bit better so I can at least feel good about riding a bit until then.

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Have you autotuned it? I won't guarantee that will cure it, especially the idle part, but it is worth a try.

 

Not yet. Just got into a pissing match with neighbor. Wanted to know if I had to make all that noise. I talked to him and he just hates all us bikers and what we stand for. I asked what I could do and he said nothing. Just the fact that I ride means he has a problem. Gotta love the ones who are just plain stupid.

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On a fresh build a couple things are going to happen, on TBW bikes idle is adaptive it will take several run cycles for the idle to smooth out and this will also affect response until the tune levels out. If idle remains unstable I would recommend checking the intake seals for any possible vacuum leaks. You are going to need to spend some time tuning, I would start with using the Auto Tune feature with your Power Vision doing three, 20 minute sessions of mixed riding, and update the map between each session. Here is some info that should help and if you need any assistance you are welcome to contact us and we are here to help.

There is a video here Here is the user guide http://www.powercommander.com/downlo...utoTune.01.pdf

 

I'm assuming this is Jamie. Anyway, thanks for the response. I guess hearing this is relatively normal (I'm inferring you mean that) helps. I will do some autotune runs as soon as I can. One thing that was interesting is the tune you supplied was scaled for a 120". Is that right term? I thought you preferred to not scale and clip. Gotta try and keep the bike hater across the street calm for now.:-)

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120 CI is completely common on the 107" calibrations we develop, it all depends on how much ceiling we need in the VE tables.

 

OK. Cool. I will work through the tunes and check the intake. New gaskets. Unless I buggered one on the install. Thanks.

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Jeez. I just tried to autotune. Set it up and loaded the autotune tune in and barely got around the block. Sputtering. Backfiring. Sluggish throttle response. No way I can autotune like that. Barely made it home. Does that tell me something? Doesn't autotune retard timing? Not sure how to proceed.

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Also throwing codes front o2 sensor lean and rear o2 sensor rich... If that helps make sense of it

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Yes, "autotuning"decreases timing by 4*.

You just proved the case of what you need to address first, the low end timing is too retarded. This WILL make for sluggish and flat riding experiences. Also, you will need to look at the AE settings sooner than later.

Do you know how to simply do data runs and look for timing being pulled? This is a PV, so I, myself, will not tell a member the proper way to do this. Jamie can, tho.

ANyways, you will wish to raise the timing in idle areas up to like 21* and then also, if possible on a PV, raise the closed throttle spark to also 21* Back off AE by 20%.

See if it idles better like this and post back.

Once we establish the idle timing, you will wish to raise the timing in the areas where the bike is flat. There is a process on how to do this. This will involve some trial and error data runs to establish where ping occurs. You will need to do autuning runs with the timing tables all altered by that 4* PV pulls out, so you can start t dial in the VEs and timing a bit. Once timing is somewhat better, you could then use the PV normally to lock down those pesky VEs.

Idle timing is NOT adaptive.