I have 13" JRI's and want to lower the rear 1", all the lowering blocks I have researched online are for stock
air shocks only, does anyone know of others for my JRI's? 2011 Street Glide. Thanks in advance.

 

make sure you check for clearance around the saddle bags before you buy as, as far as I know all the lower blocks move the bottom of the shocks back on the swing arm and may cause the shocks to rub the bags...you may be better off going to jri and getting shorter springs, that is if they will work with the longer shocks (I don't know)...

 

As I have observed and understand it, the blocks move the lower anchoring point back, thus moving the shock away from a more vertical position. This degrades the ride, sometimes to the point of unacceptability. I agree with mrfiksere...you're better off getting a shorter shock/springs.

 

I ran lowering blocks for a year. Only issue i had was that I couldn't run them in the 2" lower location because I bottomed out too much They rode awesome. Now i've replaced them with airride

 

Shorter springs have nothing to do with the length of a shock. You would accomplish nothing here. There are two ways of purchasing lowering blocks & how they work.

1. The most common ones that push your shock back by mounting your shock behind the original mounting position. This puts much more stress on the swing arm and several members here have experienced swing arm failure by causing the swing arm to crack. By changing the angle of the shock you reduce the power of both the spring and internal valving. The JRI shocks were not designed to work at that angle.

2. There is a company that locates the shocks at the same angle but mounts the shocks outboard more for clearance. The saddle bags must be spaced out more so the new shock position will have enough clearance without hitting the bags. This system keeps the stress and shock angle the same. I do not know the name of this company.

The JRI shocks, with initial riders sag (R-3) will sit at 11.8" ¢~¢ of mounting bolts. With 93mm of stroke ÷ (3) = 31mm of sag & 62mm/2.44" of compression. 13"/330.2mm (-) 3.66"/93mm = 9.34"/237.2mm. 9.34 " (-) 8.75" = 0.59"/14.986mm is the absolute lowest you can drop your bike This means that your bike will go into swing arm bind at 8.75":

 

The issue comes when you have coil-over shocks, the springs will hit the blocks, and not allow the bolt to go in.

Aside from that, I had no problems running Burleys in the SGS.

 

I had lowering blocks installed on my wife's Ultra. I recently installed progressive 12" 944's and removed the lowering blocks. I then installed the Glide Pro stabilizing system that includes a front motor mount, a new swing arm rod and new swing arm isolators. When I removed the stock isolators, I found that they were oblong shaped instead of round. I attribute this to the added stress placed on the swing arm from the lowering blocks moving the bottom of the shocks back. Based on this experience, I will never again use lowering blocks. If I want a bike lowered, I'll spend the money on shorter shocks. Note: after sitting on the bench for a couple weeks, the stock isolators are almost round again.

 

Thanks for all the replies, it seems that changing the angle of the shock is possibly detrimental to the ride,shock, and swingarm in the long term.
Motorcycle Metal speaks of lowering blocks that don't change the angle but require bags to be spaced out, anyone know who/where I can get these?
Thanks again.

 

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