its a bit more fun creating destruction on purpose.
is this bent flange a wtf issue?
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 102
From: Central Illinois
When I replaced my exhaust with my present ones, I ended up replacing the flanges so I would know I wouldn't have an issue with them. Also, only use 1/4" drive ratchet, extensions and sockets for tightening the nuts and use anti-seize on the threads. It burns off after its hot so don't worry about it looking greasy. I have never used a torque wrench on exhaust nuts, there is no need to. Anyway the values will be way off since you usually have to use long extensions to get in there which will throw off the torque at the wrench. If you use a 1/4" drive there is very little danger of over-torquing unless you go all Hulk on it (which is not necessary). After you have run the engine and got it hot and let it cool, check the nuts again then you are good to go.
By the way, my V&H 2 into 1's are also difficult to get installed since they really don't spread to get around the cylinder fins. Best way I found is have a helper hold the muffler end then tilt the exhaust and get the front pipe around the fins then with the pipes still cocked finagle the rear in. Once around the fins then you can tilt the pipe down and start getting the flanges on. They can be a pain but its real important that the flanges are hand pushed up with an even amount of stud sticking out on each side of the flange, then run the nuts up as far as possible by finger then carefully run them up by socket, evenly. Pulling one side of the flange way in then trying to do the other side may cause those bends. Along with using 3/8" drive tools and cranking down on them.
By the way, my V&H 2 into 1's are also difficult to get installed since they really don't spread to get around the cylinder fins. Best way I found is have a helper hold the muffler end then tilt the exhaust and get the front pipe around the fins then with the pipes still cocked finagle the rear in. Once around the fins then you can tilt the pipe down and start getting the flanges on. They can be a pain but its real important that the flanges are hand pushed up with an even amount of stud sticking out on each side of the flange, then run the nuts up as far as possible by finger then carefully run them up by socket, evenly. Pulling one side of the flange way in then trying to do the other side may cause those bends. Along with using 3/8" drive tools and cranking down on them.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 5,105
Likes: 16
From: Blaine, WA
A straight extension doesn't change applied toque. Exhaust studs break often, usually due to over torquing them - I always use one and set the value in three steps alternating from one cylinder to the other.
Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 219
Likes: 10
From: Nb canada
The values are the same for the 2014's.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
From: virginia
When I replaced my exhaust with my present ones, I ended up replacing the flanges so I would know I wouldn't have an issue with them. Also, only use 1/4" drive ratchet, extensions and sockets for tightening the nuts and use anti-seize on the threads. It burns off after its hot so don't worry about it looking greasy. I have never used a torque wrench on exhaust nuts, there is no need to. Anyway the values will be way off since you usually have to use long extensions to get in there which will throw off the torque at the wrench. If you use a 1/4" drive there is very little danger of over-torquing unless you go all Hulk on it (which is not necessary). After you have run the engine and got it hot and let it cool, check the nuts again then you are good to go.
By the way, my V&H 2 into 1's are also difficult to get installed since they really don't spread to get around the cylinder fins. Best way I found is have a helper hold the muffler end then tilt the exhaust and get the front pipe around the fins then with the pipes still cocked finagle the rear in. Once around the fins then you can tilt the pipe down and start getting the flanges on. They can be a pain but its real important that the flanges are hand pushed up with an even amount of stud sticking out on each side of the flange, then run the nuts up as far as possible by finger then carefully run them up by socket, evenly. Pulling one side of the flange way in then trying to do the other side may cause those bends. Along with using 3/8" drive tools and cranking down on them.
By the way, my V&H 2 into 1's are also difficult to get installed since they really don't spread to get around the cylinder fins. Best way I found is have a helper hold the muffler end then tilt the exhaust and get the front pipe around the fins then with the pipes still cocked finagle the rear in. Once around the fins then you can tilt the pipe down and start getting the flanges on. They can be a pain but its real important that the flanges are hand pushed up with an even amount of stud sticking out on each side of the flange, then run the nuts up as far as possible by finger then carefully run them up by socket, evenly. Pulling one side of the flange way in then trying to do the other side may cause those bends. Along with using 3/8" drive tools and cranking down on them.
got the new set on the way (usps). ...really hoping they get here by friday!
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