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Changed the fluids in all 3 holes this afternoon and tried out my brand new orange HD Oil Filter "Dirty Oil Catcher" gizmo. Ended up with a bigger puddle of oil on my garage floor than the "tin foil" method utilized on my previous fluid changes-I only saw one possible way to slip the unit under my filter after I broke the old filter loose about 1 turn-comments welcome on this one.
While I was soaking up old spilled oil from under the voltage regulator/oil cooler area, I noticed that there is an electrical connector that goes to my crank sensor via a 6" cable harness. This connector was just laying inside a group of other plugs and wires with a "body pin" type of support clip that was serving no support function-what is the correct application for securing this connector-seems it will be vulnerable to damage from being exposed to the road beneath it?
I torqued all three 5/8" hole drain plugs to 17.5 ft lbs (specs are 14-21)....do most folks torque or just hand tighten these bolts? Think the dealer's service monkeys torque them?
Finally, I have not yet greased the steering neck bearings-All I have is an air grease gun that requires 90 psi to operate-I use it on my backhoe-will this suffice for the steering neck lube zerk or shall I go and get a hand operated grease gun? Don't want to blow any seals out.
I use a torque wrench on the drain plugs. A tech who does many a day probably has a feel for the right tightness. I only do them once a year so I use the torque wrench.
I greased the steering neck myself for the first time. I used a hand operated grease gun. It took a lot of pumps before grease appeared at the top of the steering neck. Makes me wonder if the service dept ever greased it at 1,000 and 5,000 miles.
The dreaded oil filter change! I've tried every method I read about or could think of and there is always oil to clean up. The guys at my local dealer say they just spin it off and let it go them spray it down with simple green to clean it up. I haven't tried this yet.
I think torquing the plugs to specs is a good idea. I've heard of people stripping them out of even running the primary plug all the way into the primary.
The crank position sensor wire on mine is fastened to the metal bracket under the voltage regulator with a plastic clip right at the connector. If all else fails with wiring, black zip ties are my solution.
Changed the fluids in all 3 holes this afternoon and tried out my brand new orange HD Oil Filter "Dirty Oil Catcher" gizmo. Ended up with a bigger puddle of oil on my garage floor than the "tin foil" method utilized on my previous fluid changes-I only saw one possible way to slip the unit under my filter after I broke the old filter loose about 1 turn-comments welcome on this one.
While I was soaking up old spilled oil from under the voltage regulator/oil cooler area, I noticed that there is an electrical connector that goes to my crank sensor via a 6" cable harness. This connector was just laying inside a group of other plugs and wires with a "body pin" type of support clip that was serving no support function-what is the correct application for securing this connector-seems it will be vulnerable to damage from being exposed to the road beneath it?
I torqued all three 5/8" hole drain plugs to 17.5 ft lbs (specs are 14-21)....do most folks torque or just hand tighten these bolts? Think the dealer's service monkeys torque them?
Finally, I have not yet greased the steering neck bearings-All I have is an air grease gun that requires 90 psi to operate-I use it on my backhoe-will this suffice for the steering neck lube zerk or shall I go and get a hand operated grease gun? Don't want to blow any seals out.
Thanks for reading
Lol...that tin foil is the way to go...no issues inserting it, really bullet proof in my experience
I use a gallon-size freezer bag when removing the filter. Just slip it over the filter (after you have the filter reasonably loose, but before oil seepage) then continue to unscrew the filter while either turning the bag with the filter or rotating the bag as you take a turn. You will get the hang of it. Then, all (most) of the oil and the filter drop into the bag where you can zip it securely shut and properly dispose. Is it perfect, no. But it's the best solution I have tried over the years.
Always use a torque wrench ( and the right tools for the job). Why wouldn't you? Way too many screw- ups that cost down time and money to fix when you get in a hurry.
Congrats on doing this maintenance yourself. So many depend on a dealer for such things.
Personally, I don't use a torque wrench but I've been wrenching on my cars, boats, M/Cs, ATVs, etc for over 50 years so I have a pretty good feel for how tight they need to be. That being said, have I ever stripped and damaged a drain pan's threads? Yes, in the old days when I was younger and believed "tighter was better." So I'd advise using the torque wrench to tighten drain plugs, especially on aluminum pans. I'm just too stubborn and old to change my ways.
Lowcountry joe, thanks for the suggestion on the freezer bag. I haven't tried that one yet. As far as clean up goes, just spray some brake cleaner on the frame under the oil filter and wipe off with a shop towel. Gets 99.9% of the oil spillage off.
The first time I used the Harley drain it worked great, no mess no fuss. The 2nd time I got oil everywhere so operator error on my part, hose it down with some brake cleaner and its like it never happened. I am a mechanic /shop owner by trade, have built bikes and cars from the ground up and always use a torque wrench on everything, never reuse a gasket or O-ring and for the most part follow manufactures recommendations.
I was going to buy one of those drain gizmos until the parts guy told me to save my money because they are a pos.
After more messes than I care to admit what I found what works great is using a strip of flexible cutting board and notching one end to go back under the filter as far as possible. Before I remove the filter I poke 2 drain holes (one for a vent) and give it time to drain. I also torque my plugs to 17ft lb
Turn filter a half turn or so to loosen it.then punch a hole,rotate,one more hole. Let it drain then spin it off into a large flexible pastic container like an ol clorox bottle.
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