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solid motor sprocket VS. SE compensator

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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 09:49 PM
  #11  
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From: Richardson, Tx
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Originally Posted by monumaker
ok so if people are having problems with stock compensator, why not got to a solid motor sprocket? why go with a screaming eagle comp?

any pro's or cons out there?

i am looking at the evolution industries 34 tooth solid motor sprocket specifically.
That's what I did to an 07 Ultra Classic I had and it worked great. The 07 and 08 have different gear ratios than previous years. They changed it back in 09. The gearing made first gear too tall and lots of compensator issues. The solid gear fixed mine. Never had a problem.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 09:51 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Smokey Stover
There is the BDL version, a few on here have been using,so far so good, waiting for long term endurance evaluations, Also GMR the Compensaver maker is testing a PEEK thrust washer to replace the needle bearings in the 14a version SE comp, Which I ended up with at the time I needed to replace mine. I've been watching and waiting patiently. So far no Issues with the new SE comp, I installed with the compensaver and Hayden tensioner.



I don't know much but your primary chain looks too tight. I installed the Hayden M6 on my 09 heritage and replaced it with the Attitude Adjuster within a month because it made chain too tight and I started hearing **** I wasn't comfortable with. Been a few months now and no problems with the manual adjuster and no new noises. Compensator is stock and has 15k on it and still ok...
 
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 10:41 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by mkguitar
Riders complain about a solid drivetrain ( knuck, pan, shovel) as they get driveline shocks with changes in throttle position.

the comp gives some cush, esp as the TC 103 makes almost twice the power and 1/2 the flywheel weight of my '53 74".


the comp seems to be the next weak link in the chain we find when doing performance work.

I've been ok with my evo comps for many many miles ( and my FXRP is a hipo motor).
My 09 is staying at stage 1 and so far, so good.

I think the comp works harder in the TC because of the lighter bottom end

But...



You could certainly try a solid drive but I don't know how streetable you'd find it

the belt drive primaries are usually solid drive

mike
Agreed, but there is more "give" in a belt than there is in a chain. I believe that most "clutch dumpers" will, eventually, have a problem in that area no matter what you run. When you dump the clutch, the bike "mechanically" doesn't like it. But hey, that's the way it is.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 11:23 AM
  #14  
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Hmm, not too many replies (1) along the lines of "I have a solid sprocket and..." but lots of theory. It's going to be a long winter...
 
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 01:58 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Joe12RK
Hmm, not too many replies (1) along the lines of "I have a solid sprocket and..." but lots of theory. It's going to be a long winter...

This link should give you enough feedback

http://bfy.tw/2ZiU
 
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 02:10 PM
  #16  
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I herd an open belt will rip your pants off and make you crash! Be warned!!!
 
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 04:58 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by anyaneeeze
This link should give you enough feedback

http://bfy.tw/2ZiU
 
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 05:03 PM
  #18  
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at 130hp 130tq, I'm going to go out on a limb and guess the op has done the bottom end,if so no worries,it will feel a little harsh unless your still running the ids.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 05:05 PM
  #19  
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and this is a really old thread. the baker comp is out now.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 08:39 PM
  #20  
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This is almost as bad as peoples opinions as which oil is better. My 49 pan with a stroked and cammed SS motor would feel pretty harsh if you lugged it down with low rpm and rpm was low enough that the cam would try and lope. I would just drop a gear and all was good again. no drama. If you cant handle chain slap then run a comp sprocket and keep the rpm up. problem solved.
 
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