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Clutch adjustment questions....

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Old Sep 13, 2014 | 07:38 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by junior166745151
a mechanic told me that once a clutch has been installed you should never need to adjust the nut, if you have to go that route that means there is a big problem with the whole clutch system?
Brother you really really need to keep your Harley away from this guy. If he does believe this who knows what other steps he doesn't take when working on your bike?
 
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Old Sep 13, 2014 | 08:58 AM
  #12  
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One caution generated from experience. Once the lock nut is backed off the plate and you start to feel for the contact point, don't be fooled by some slight resistance. It could be caused by burred threads rather than the pin contact point. Running the screw well in past the contact point to assure no false resistance won't hurt anything as long as you back it out and go for the 1/2 to one turn out from the contact point. Don't over tighten the lock nut, the book torque is surprisingly light. If I remembered it I would tell you now, but I don't recall it for the moment.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2014 | 09:19 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by btsom
One caution generated from experience. Once the lock nut is backed off the plate and you start to feel for the contact point, don't be fooled by some slight resistance. It could be caused by burred threads rather than the pin contact point. Running the screw well in past the contact point to assure no false resistance won't hurt anything as long as you back it out and go for the 1/2 to one turn out from the contact point. Don't over tighten the lock nut, the book torque is surprisingly light. If I remembered it I would tell you now, but I don't recall it for the moment.

That has happened to me(the burred threads) I got a false reading and had to go back and do it over again......... sometimes it does feel like its seated when its not.......
 
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Old Sep 13, 2014 | 09:23 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by btsom
One caution generated from experience. Once the lock nut is backed off the plate and you start to feel for the contact point, don't be fooled by some slight resistance. It could be caused by burred threads rather than the pin contact point. Running the screw well in past the contact point to assure no false resistance won't hurt anything as long as you back it out and go for the 1/2 to one turn out from the contact point. Don't over tighten the lock nut, the book torque is surprisingly light. If I remembered it I would tell you now, but I don't recall it for the moment.
Your point is exactly where most screw up. Manual says to totally loosen cable and when you do that, sometimes it's difficult to find the exact point of no clearance since I use what you said and move the lever also to sense no clearance. Then torque of that large fine thread nut is only 72-120 inch lbs. That is about 8 ft lbs. When you go to tight, next time, you need to deburr threads for sure.
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; Sep 13, 2014 at 09:26 AM.
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Old Sep 13, 2014 | 12:02 PM
  #15  
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[QUOTE=btsom;13212280]don't be fooled by some slight resistance. It could be caused by burred threads rather than the pin contact point. Running the screw well in past the contact point to assure no false resistance won't hurt anything as long as you back it out and go for the 1/2 to one turn out from the contact point./QUOTE]

DO THIS!
Get the HD shop manual. You'll be amazed at how much stuff you can do on your own! All the maintenance procedures are in there. Read the manual THEN go to you tube if you don't understand something.
 
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