I like the way you guys work----methodical, take your time, bag it and put everything in its place. Also taping and covering everything. Lord knows the regrettable things I've done in the past by rushing to finish and dinging or scratching something that is expensive to replace! I already have a scratch in a new Clearview windshield and don't know how it got there! Probably cleaned it with a dirty rag at one time.

 

Would anybody believe I have the market cornered on 30-tooth sprockets and purchased 50 of them when I heard the rush-is-on....?

Nah.....just kidding. But, I am not kidding about this part. I recently changed sprockets and set my belt tension...etc. After a 600-mile trip I checked my belt tension when I got home. It was pretty loose. I suppose if you don't have many miles on your stock belt and sprocket...there won't be much run-in. I had several thousand miles on mine and I suppose the old belt had to run-into the new sprocket....or vice-versa. I know you guys routinley keep a check on belt tension, but this is just a heads-up to check it again after you burn-in the new sprocket. We all know what a PITA it is to set the belt tension on a trike.

 

This must be my night to run-on-at-the-mouth, but I failed to mention something 3 brought up. It's fairly common knowledge that the MOCO auto chain tensioner can be a problem child. Some of the Harley Techs. that I know and trust think it runs the chain too tight...and I do too.

If you decide to toss it, there are some good alternatives out there and I am not taking sides on any of them, but I have been running the Hayden M6 for years and years in both the EVO and the TC. They don't have the ratchet mechanism that Harley (over complicated) built into theirs. It's spring loaded and while applying serious tension to the chain, it does not run as tight as the stock MOCO tensioner. I have not really heard any TG owners complain, but maybe the other complaints and fixes have kept everyone busy and nobody has trickled-down to the tensioner yet. While I had it down....I'd stick another good tensioner in there.

 

I checked the Hayden site and they don't make on to fit 07 and newer so we're out of luck there. I'm still tossing around the one I mentioned in my first post.

 

We purchased the required socket, belt locking tool, and a 3/4" ( 40" ) breaker bar. Will post photos shortly. He is taking a break as his place of employment scheduled him in on his days off. Had to get some extra cash for all the extra tools needed.

 

Just a note on the socket to remove the pulley nut. I have seen some of these sockets come with 1/2" drive instead of 3/4", mine is the 1/2", that is why i used a pipe wrench and cheater bar. It worked perfectly on 3 instalations. The 1/2" drive is ok for your pre torque but no way are you going to final torque or get that nut off using 1/2". Now with that said I perfer the 1/2" drive as i dont have to add 3/4" drive accessorys to my box.

 

That makes perfect sense to me.

 

When I look at your sprocket at 12 o-clock I know you refer to galling but is that a wear area or is the notch from a machining process Harley did to it? I assume this is an SE compensator but mine (regular one) at 35K looked like it had just been cast. Appears the trike puts a lot of load on it or it's not heat treated correctly.

 

Don't look that bad in the pic, I imagine mine would look better at just 5000 but that Tri has been rode a little harder. Unless there is a lot of metal in the oil I don't believe it would be a concern but you can't really tell by pics on the internet.

I've seen worse with no problems, any noise before it was pulled?

I thought the 09-10 tri's had the SE compensator so it may be forged instead of cast. Case hardening is just a few microns thick on the surface, looks a little shinny where the carbon wore off on the gear, normal wear?

 

It is a wear area, the picture doesn't show all the gouging that it has. I have read threads other places where guys were seeing the same things on their SE compensator which the Triglide is equipped with.