Originally Posted by CPT America

You have tons of options out there. First things first, YES you DO need a power commander when you add the pipe in addition to the filter. I would recommend since you've already changed to a K&N filter that you run the air box topless. Not a hard DIY mod, just remove the inner (plastic) air box lid and run with your K&N out in the open. It will compliment the pipe and filter. Now, on to the pipes. I can only give you recommendations based on experience and preference. I run a CFR 2-1 setup that I really like. Great sound and pretty decent HP gains after I got it dyno'd. I have a K&N filter and am running topless as well. The pipe is reasonably priced ($549) and if you search around long enough you may find a used one for cheaper. Some people say the pipe is too loud for them, but a company called Vmod makes/sells a baffle that you can install to quiet it down a bit. The only issue I've had is with scraping, but I also am running Arnott Air Ride rear shocks. The pipe sits a little low, but not terrible with stock suspension. Other options are the V&H Indy and Toxic Big Rig. Some folks run BUB 2-1 setups and like them as well. If you want a short term fix you can always just get a set TAB Performance turnout slip ons that use your stock exhaust. They provide better than stock sound, you can remove the baffles to make them louder if you want and they won't cost you a ton of $$. The V&H, Toxic, and BUB pipes will all cost between $600-$750 unless you find them on closeout or used. Generally the cheaper prices have been on chrome units which is NOT what you want if I read your post correctly. Any slip on system will be easy for you to install with very basic hand tools. The Power Commander is also a very easy plug and play, and you can download maps for a ton of configurations (i.e. K&N, topless, V&H Pipe). The downloadable map will work until you can get your bike custom mapped on a dyne. People have varying opinions about the "right" tuner but it's a matter of preference. I run a PCIII while others prefer the PCV. You can always have H-D ref lash your stock ECM and then you don't have to worry about an extra mechanical/electrical gadget failing on you. The drawback to flashing the stock ECM is that whenever you change anything you need to go back, pay them, and have it done again, whereas with a stand alone tuner you can download a new map, install it yourself and go. TAB Performance also makes a tuner (can't remember the name) as do a couple other companies. Go check out 1130cc.com and you should be able to find a bunch of information. This is what the CFR pipe looks like on:

Originally Posted by dan gaither

hello, i have a new 2013 harley v-rod night rod special, im ordering my new c.f.r slip on exhaust and need to send my headers to them to modify for an easy slip on.. but it looks to me like i will have to send them the collector minus the mufflers because it is welded to one ofe the headers... am i correct about this ? oh and i love your bike and love the fairing also... will be asking more questions about that awesome setup soon... thanks again for all the great info

Originally Posted by CPT America

You have tons of options out there. First things first, YES you DO need a power commander when you add the pipe in addition to the filter. I would recommend since you've already changed to a K&N filter that you run the air box topless. Not a hard DIY mod, just remove the inner (plastic) air box lid and run with your K&N out in the open. It will compliment the pipe and filter. Now, on to the pipes. I can only give you recommendations based on experience and preference. I run a CFR 2-1 setup that I really like. Great sound and pretty decent HP gains after I got it dyno'd. I have a K&N filter and am running topless as well. The pipe is reasonably priced ($549) and if you search around long enough you may find a used one for cheaper. Some people say the pipe is too loud for them, but a company called Vmod makes/sells a baffle that you can install to quiet it down a bit. The only issue I've had is with scraping, but I also am running Arnott Air Ride rear shocks. The pipe sits a little low, but not terrible with stock suspension. Other options are the V&H Indy and Toxic Big Rig. Some folks run BUB 2-1 setups and like them as well. If you want a short term fix you can always just get a set TAB Performance turnout slip ons that use your stock exhaust. They provide better than stock sound, you can remove the baffles to make them louder if you want and they won't cost you a ton of $$. The V&H, Toxic, and BUB pipes will all cost between $600-$750 unless you find them on closeout or used. Generally the cheaper prices have been on chrome units which is NOT what you want if I read your post correctly. Any slip on system will be easy for you to install with very basic hand tools. The Power Commander is also a very easy plug and play, and you can download maps for a ton of configurations (i.e. K&N, topless, V&H Pipe). The downloadable map will work until you can get your bike custom mapped on a dyne. People have varying opinions about the "right" tuner but it's a matter of preference. I run a PCIII while others prefer the PCV. You can always have H-D ref lash your stock ECM and then you don't have to worry about an extra mechanical/electrical gadget failing on you. The drawback to flashing the stock ECM is that whenever you change anything you need to go back, pay them, and have it done again, whereas with a stand alone tuner you can download a new map, install it yourself and go. TAB Performance also makes a tuner (can't remember the name) as do a couple other companies. Go check out 1130cc.com and you should be able to find a bunch of information. This is what the CFR pipe looks like on:

Originally Posted by CPT America

You have tons of options out there. First things first, YES you DO need a power commander when you add the pipe in addition to the filter. I would recommend since you've already changed to a K&N filter that you run the air box topless. Not a hard DIY mod, just remove the inner (plastic) air box lid and run with your K&N out in the open. It will compliment the pipe and filter. Now, on to the pipes. I can only give you recommendations based on experience and preference. I run a CFR 2-1 setup that I really like. Great sound and pretty decent HP gains after I got it dyno'd. I have a K&N filter and am running topless as well. The pipe is reasonably priced ($549) and if you search around long enough you may find a used one for cheaper. Some people say the pipe is too loud for them, but a company called Vmod makes/sells a baffle that you can install to quiet it down a bit. The only issue I've had is with scraping, but I also am running Arnott Air Ride rear shocks. The pipe sits a little low, but not terrible with stock suspension. Other options are the V&H Indy and Toxic Big Rig. Some folks run BUB 2-1 setups and like them as well. If you want a short term fix you can always just get a set TAB Performance turnout slip ons that use your stock exhaust. They provide better than stock sound, you can remove the baffles to make them louder if you want and they won't cost you a ton of $$. The V&H, Toxic, and BUB pipes will all cost between $600-$750 unless you find them on closeout or used. Generally the cheaper prices have been on chrome units which is NOT what you want if I read your post correctly. Any slip on system will be easy for you to install with very basic hand tools. The Power Commander is also a very easy plug and play, and you can download maps for a ton of configurations (i.e. K&N, topless, V&H Pipe). The downloadable map will work until you can get your bike custom mapped on a dyne. People have varying opinions about the "right" tuner but it's a matter of preference. I run a PCIII while others prefer the PCV. You can always have H-D ref lash your stock ECM and then you don't have to worry about an extra mechanical/electrical gadget failing on you. The drawback to flashing the stock ECM is that whenever you change anything you need to go back, pay them, and have it done again, whereas with a stand alone tuner you can download a new map, install it yourself and go. TAB Performance also makes a tuner (can't remember the name) as do a couple other companies. Go check out 1130cc.com and you should be able to find a bunch of information. This is what the CFR pipe looks like on: