I have a 98 road king. I have a Chechen engine light on. Ran the code and it flashes 8 and the 13. Does anyone know what that means? Thank you

 

It also helps to provide additional information like is this a Road King Classic with fuel injection or a standard road king with carb.
Little things like Mileage
Changes from stock like handlebars, fuel adders, air box,pipes etc.
General condition and length of ownership helps to paint a picture.

I do not speak chechen but this is how codes are read on a 1998 Road King.

1-turn ignition key switch to ignition and then turn off 1 second after fuel pump stops.
2.repeat #1 again..remember 1 second after pump stops
3.turn ignition key switch to ignition and wait about 8 seconds for a bunch of flashing of the check engine light
it will then stop for 2 seconds..get ready... these are the codes you must count:
it will slowly flash 1,2,3,5....there is NO 4....this is the first digit of the 2 digit code ..so it can only be 1,2,3,5 __ __
then a 2 second pause...then you will get second digit of the 2 digit code..it can only be 1,2,3,4,5,6
remember after the complete 2 digit code is given you will go back to the rapid flash sequence..
there are a total of 15 codes available with this procedure
examples
52,53,54,55 bad news ECM replacement
56 crank/cam sensor
11 throttle sensor
12 barometric

A check engine light that comes ON and stays ON but then turns OFF is a historical code.
If light stays ON then problem is still active.
A code 56 will trigger for any bad start, a back fire and just about anything.
A rapid flash sequence means there is no code.
The codes display really really slow.

14 engine temp. sensor

15 intake temp sensor
23 and 32 are injectors front/rear
24 coil
33 fuel pump relay--in this case you would not hear the pump but instead waited 3 seconds after the on / off sequence

update: Code 35 on Magnetti-Marelli EFI Systems
Normally a code 35 is set when there is a problem in the tachometer circuit. We
have identified another possible cause for a code 35 not specifically covered in the
Service Manuals. It pertains to a current or recurring historic code 35 (Tachometer)
on 1995-2001 EFI Touring models including Road Kings not normally equipped with
a tachometer. This code may be accompanied by codes 41, 42 or 56 and perhaps
even hard starting, poor cold idle and driveability issues. The ECM is functional
because it still has Key On power at pin 26.
Diagnosing this possible condition is relatively easy. Using the Scanalyzer, look for
consistent battery voltage in the data monitor mode (you may have to perform a
wiggle test while monitoring) because the Scanalyzer is monitoring voltage at pin 35
of the ECM (not battery voltage across the battery terminals). Closely inspect every
connection from the Main Circuit breaker to the ECM for loose crimps or
connections. Even a loose ECM fuse or intermittent ECM relay can cause this
condition.

 

Welcome to the forums from Texas. Looks like im has your codes listed. Good luck!

 

G'day mate,

welcome to HDF.

I will be your tour guide. Be sure to read the manual before posting ok mate?

Or we will have discipline you and if you don't "get it" we will need to discipline you biker style.

Here is a gift for you… LOL! “I so funi!”

Now let’s get serious for your orientation. Go down the hall on your left to the 1st room. No, wait. The 1st room on your right. That is where the commissary is.

Then you will see doors marked for the mortuary, skeet shooting, a room where we make fun of In-Jun bikes, and of course we have a ahh, umm, oh yeah a across the hall.

We had a BOMB MAKING room but, well, ahhhhh, 1 of the guys just didn't understand Blasting Caps very well so..... you know.

We have our own pub .

There are several places where you can familiarize your self with the .

So don't be a wall flower watching others . Get involved.

See you around mate. I am going to the commissary now.


**** ON THE SERIOUS SIDE ****

**** I AM NOT ONE TO GIVE ADVICE ON HOW HDF WORKS BUT… ****
**** AND THE FOLLOWING IS UNOFFICIAL ****





You are in the “New Members Area” where you can introduce yourself and let us know what Harley Davidson bike(s) (if any) you ride/own.

If you have questions about engines, exhaust systems, audio issues, etc… then:

1) Please go to the upper corner and Roll Over “Forums”

2) Then come down to and Roll Over “Harley Davidson Tech & Mechanical Forum”

3) Then come down to the section that would be most appropriate for your question like Audio Systems, Engine Mechanical Topics, Exhaust System Topics, etc… and CLICK on the topic you have a question about.

You will find the knowledge here is EXCELLENT and these here mates are willing to help you in any way they can. ‘juss be careful. There are some “Trolls”, so I suggest just ignoring them ‘ole farts.

See you around HDF. Come often, we have a humor thread, game thread, and a LOT of other stuff.

Have A Great Day Mate,

BuzzCap7

 

List of common problems for year and model.
Print and save.

1-COMMON for FUEL INJECTED...Two fuel hoses under tank leak after 10 years. Harley $$$$$$$, Goodridge HDFL005 under $160 USA dollars or LESS total for BOTH if you check google .

The Goodridge lines are less than half the price of the Harley parts and are of good quality.

2-COMMON..speedometer LCD (odometer screen bleed). requires replacement when unable to read miles ridden. There is now a Drag specialties wire harness to convert to plug and play speedometer...no cutting wires.

3-COMMON..Cam position sensor...very difficult starting, lots of cranking but does not catch. A lot of cranking and no start then you wait a second and a quick tap to start button and it starts with very little cranking…look for visible goo (beige) leak under timer cone (right foot) at black wire exit from botton of cone…You will have plenty of warning…dozens and dozens of difficult starts.

4-CRANK position sensor by oil filter (RARE) but if you use a power commander the signal must be 100%..This is very rare.

5-(MEDIUM COMMON)Tank liner releases at middle section near fuel pump..blocks flow of fuel..loss of power, slow down and piece moves from fuel inlet so bike is OK but then becomes trapped again so cycle repeats.. FREE REPAIR..open gas tank access lid, drain fuel and clean piece out..I would carry the little bit required to remove screw..The book says you need to replace the one time use screws but if you are careful and replace in the same location it will be re-usable at least one time..

6- VERY COMMON...ENGINE TEMPERATURE SENSOR...very common, general rough riding as bike bucks from cold to hot rapidly..$100 part…I have studied this situation and it seems like a cheap resistor with 150 ohm rating could have its leads pushed into the connector plug ends in order to trick the bike into thinking it was warm (emergency bypass) or just unplug engine idle control when plunger is at rest (easy side of road bypass).

7- Bikes that are pressure washed or in snow conditions with salt roads or people that added a power commander and destroyed the rubber boot at ECM..GROUNDING PIN ON ECM becomes corroded and requires cleaning.

8-The little chrome cover cap thing with the allen bolt on the starter end will get loose one time and you will chase the rattle a long time until you figure out that under the cover is two 0.15 cent nuts and one is lost.
***-The shift linkage ends SUCK on all harleys and you need to change those yesterday to heim joints look on ebay if on a budget for: Heim Joint Rod End 5/16" with bolts for Harley Davidson as they should be about $10-$15 delivered for both.
****VERY IMPORTANT...THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR USES AN INSERT TWIST AND LOCK CONNECTION. MAKE 100% sure it is tight, zip tied and secure and then tie it one more time.. Located at throttle side of frame behind the PAINTED plastic side cover by seat (remove cover) and hidden by the triangle portion of frame..connector is black and about 2 or 3 inches long and the thickness of a fat pencil.
That thing had me scratching my head for a long time trying to chase an intermittant cut-off over bumps. Side of the road frustration thing..Many shops are unable to identify the simple problem while others waste your money by replacing it when it was only loose.
THE PARTS ARE READILY AVAILABLE for this bike with the exception of the gas tank from either the dealer or aftermarket.

I would imagine you have the service book or will get the service book for this bike from Harley 99483-98 . Finally if needed you get the book read chapter 9. You can review check engine codes with no tools by following a simple sequence.

I would review the fuel lines if fuel injected. If you do NOT have the goodridge lines HDFL005 then I would consider carrying some in your saddle bag. Rarely does a dealer stock the Harley ones.

Consider using regular Dyno oil as the synthetics are too good at locating leaks.

Check the allen bolt at the transmission shift lever. The shift lever that attaches to the transmission spline/shaft. People forget to check that allen/hex bolt and then the splines on the lever get chewed.

Shaft is harder than lever so the lever will strip. Major labor to remove the outer primary, inner primary, and clutch hub just to replace the lever on that year of bike just because someone did not inspect that allen/hex bolt.

 

A big welcome to you from sunny Southern California. Glad to have you on board.

 

Welcome from Pennsylvania

 

Welcome to the HD Forums.
This section is:
New Members Area Just Joined? Be sure to pop in here and introduce yourself & let us know what Harley Davidson you own.
You can ask your questions or get advice in the proper sections later.
Izzo
Moderator

 

Welcome!

 

Welcome from North Dakota.