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Welcome Area OnlyNew Member Welcome Area Only. Be sure to pop in here and introduce yourself & let us know what Harley Davidson you own. Save your bike related questions for the proper area.
1) Avon 200. This is a kit w/wide tire swing arm so all parts are supposed to fit and work together. I’ve contacted Bikers Choice. Their kit technician gives multiple-choice answers, and their catalog technician is willing, but inexperienced with their kits. I think I’ll end up knowing more than they do about their own bike kit when I’m finished with just one build! The dealer I got the kit from has my money (‘nuff said).
I spoke to a local mechanic yesterday who sold me the 30 thou’ main shaft spacer I needed and explained how a floating caliper works. It helps me to picture the physics involved. Now I think I can follow your suggestion to center the wheel to the backbone, and then space each side of the wheel accordingly. I’m still having the caliper milled ‘cause I think I can still use that quarter-inch on the right.
2) I got the spacer from a local builder/mechanic, thanks.
3) I’ll look for the T&B connectors etc. Thanks for the tip. I’m using a 3.4 gal. Sportster tank. I’ll have to mount it and see how much hiding space it gives me. I’m seeing that the wiring will eat up some time in order to get it right. A lot of people suggest that I drill the frame, and route the wires through it. Doesn’t that weaken the frame?
3) I’ll look for the T&B connectors etc. Thanks for the tip. I’m using a 3.4 gal. Sportster tank. I’ll have to mount it and see how much hiding space it gives me. I’m seeing that the wiring will eat up some time in order to get it right. A lot of people suggest that I drill the frame, and route the wires through it. Doesn’t that weaken the frame?
Thanks for your help, Skip.
When you get the connectors, get locking fork terminal lugs that have insulation on the crimp portion to helps support the wire. The locking fork type can be put on a terminal stud or screw without completely removing the nut or screw. And they won't accidentally fall off while you are installing them. When stripping the wire, strip only enough insulation off to allow the conductor to just barely show on the terminal end when the wire is fully inserted into the terminal lug.
There are several different types of T&B crimping tools. Make sure the one you get is made to crimp insulated lugs. Most of 'em have two portions, one for insulated, and one for non-insulated.
When I built ground-up, I drilled the frame without any problems. Obviously you don't want to hog out a half-inch hole in a one inch tube. Design your system so you'll have the minimum number of wires to route through the hole in the frame, and make that hole just big enough to do the job. Clean the hole edges to protect the wires, and sleeve the wires where they go through the frame so they won't get cut or abraded.
I wanted to bring this back up to the top to thank you for your help in answering my questions.
I had the caliper bracket milled a quarter inch, and took an eighth off the spacer. That brought the wheel to the right the 3/8 I needed without compromising the braking mechanism, and aligned the wheel center to the backbone. An eighth off the left spacer put the wheel up in the swingarm, and I'm all set. I still have to scrub a sixteenth from the tire edge with a wood rasp to clear the belt (Tight fit!), but everything looks like it will be okay.
Welcome to the bb. I too would love to see pics of the build as you go along. I won't be able to help with any tech questions but I can give dumb answers anytime anyone's looking for one. Have fun here.
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