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103 upgrade issues

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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 04:37 AM
  #1  
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From: Tyler, Tx
Default 103 upgrade issues

Need help. Here is some background. 2008 flhtcui that started as a 96, coverted to a 103, then upgraded to new 103 upgrade. As it sits now, 10:5 to 1 pistons, 259e cams, se "heavy breather", true dual with v&h pro pipe slip ons, and se race tuner. It has been dyno tuned by several reputable dealers. Has had compression check for balance, checked for intake and exhaust leaks. My issue is the response at just off idle. Sometime it will stumble and even die. Then on the other end i have continuous popping on deceleration. Does not matter what gear or speed. I do not baby this bike, i just ride it.
Any suggestions on solutions would be appreciated. At present i have ordered the "quiet baffles" for the pro pipes thinking a little increase in back pressure might help
 
Old Feb 25, 2012 | 04:59 AM
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Originally Posted by riderdave
Need help. Here is some background. 2008 flhtcui that started as a 96, coverted to a 103, then upgraded to new 103 upgrade. As it sits now, 10:5 to 1 pistons, 259e cams, se "heavy breather", true dual with v&h pro pipe slip ons, and se race tuner. It has been dyno tuned by several reputable dealers. Has had compression check for balance, checked for intake and exhaust leaks. My issue is the response at just off idle. Sometime it will stumble and even die. Then on the other end i have continuous popping on deceleration. Does not matter what gear or speed. I do not baby this bike, i just ride it.
Any suggestions on solutions would be appreciated. At present i have ordered the "quiet baffles" for the pro pipes thinking a little increase in back pressure might help
Are you cracking the throttle wide open while the engine is off idling?
 
Old Feb 25, 2012 | 05:25 AM
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All kidding aside, don't do any engine mods but do change your final drive ratio. Drop the front drive pulley by 2 or 3 teeth and that will increase acceleration but will lower top speed....Another option is to change the rear pulley but that is about $170 as opposed to changing the front pulley for about $100-$120 but requires the removal of the inner/outer Primary Drive. Will you be doing the work yourself?
 
Old Feb 25, 2012 | 07:02 AM
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Welcome aboard from Maryland
 
Old Feb 25, 2012 | 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by sportsterbob
are you cracking the throttle wide open while the engine is off idling?
best description is popping the the throttle. Idle............pop........stumble or die
 
Old Feb 25, 2012 | 08:30 AM
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Welcome to the forum from ND. Keep us informed of your progress.
 
Old Feb 25, 2012 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by sportsterbob
all kidding aside, don't do any engine mods but do change your final drive ratio. Drop the front drive pulley by 2 or 3 teeth and that will increase acceleration but will lower top speed....another option is to change the rear pulley but that is about $170 as opposed to changing the front pulley for about $100-$120 but requires the removal of the inner/outer primary drive. Will you be doing the work yourself?
yes i will. Just enough tools, lift, and knoiwledge to get me in trouble. The idea of dropping a few teeth does sound good.................thanks
 
Old Feb 25, 2012 | 11:18 AM
  #8  
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Welcome from California. One of the functions of a good tuner is the ability to program in an equivalent of a "spray from the accelerator pump." That "shot", right off idle, helps quite a bit. Check into it. A little back-pressure will definitely improve the torque numbers of your bike down low too.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 02:34 PM
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I've heard of dr. Dyno back east. He is suppose to be the best tuner in the country. I will have to see what events or rallies he might be going to. You are right about the tuner's, it takes years to learn and constant updates
 
Old Feb 25, 2012 | 02:38 PM
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