New Member
Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 539
Likes: 0
From: Western Suburbs of Chicago
RE: New Member
Greetings from Illinois.
This post was in a thread about Street Glide brakes and should apply to the Road King as well (Thank Heavy924 for all the work):
"First off I would like to thank Paul Jr. at Lyndall Racing because it was due to his efforts that I was able to solve my problem. In fact, initially, Paul made suggestions that did not include products that he sold in an effort to resolve my problem.
There are two types of noises that people typically complain about when it comes to brakes.
1. Whoosh or scraping noise when brakes are not applied.
This noise is a result of the brake pad making incidental contact with the rotor while the wheel is rotating. Many times the customer may complain of a noise that sounds like the rotor is warped and only striking the pad intermittently.
This is a result of the metallic composite material of the brake pad and is most prevalent in HD OEM (Factory) brakes.
Aftermarket suppliers such as Lyndall and EBC have various pads that reduce and or eliminate this condition altogether. My recommendation is Lyndall “Gold” or “Z” type pads. The “Gold” pads have a burnishing procedure that transfers brake pad properties over to the rotor thus reducing noise from different metals.
2. Harmonic noise, squeak or squeal when brakes are applied.
The noise that I had on my application was more a howl then a squeal. The noise began under normal braking conditions at approximately 30 mph and continued until I came to a complete stop. It was only coming from the front end and I could not isolate it to one side or the other.
Here is something to consider when diagnosing brake noises:
o Remember all brakes create sound waves whether they are applied or not. It is the frequency of the sound wave that changes. Unfortunately our bike has a rotor/wheel combination that amplifies the frequency to a level that the human ear can detect.
OK, now having said that, the frequency/range of this noise is so wide that the only "one size fits all" remedy is to install floating rotors. The rotors ride on pins that dampen the noise (reduce the frequency) to a level that the human ear cannot detect.
Assuming that the “one size fits all” remedy of floating rotors is not in your price range I have listed a set of options to select from:
1. Clean Caliper / Piston bore and shave pads. $ 0
2. Swapping rotors from side to side. $ 4.00
3. Installing EBC brake shims in both front calipers. $ 10.00
4. Clean Caliper / Piston bore and install pads. $ 50.00
Note:
Before removing the calipers I protected the front fender from paint damage as a result of the caliper striking the fender inadvertently. I used masking tape along the back of the fender where the caliper would hang when removed.
1. Clean Caliper / Piston bore and shave pads.
Right side:
o Make sure that the rotor was in good condition including thickness and lateral run-out.
o Remove the bolts that retained the caliper and separated it from the rotor assembly. Clean the rotor with brake cleaner and steel wool paying close attention to any unusual marks or abrasions on the rotor surface.
o This next step assumes that the pads are still at an acceptable thickness. If not, replace both pad sets for each rotor.
o With the caliper removed and the pads still in the caliper, actuate the front brake lever until the pads are pressed together. Remove the pads and clean the outside of each piston, removing any debris that might have collected on the piston or caliper. Then push each piston back into the bore until they were flush with the caliper surface.
o With a file, shave the leading edge of each pad such that the right angle on the pad is no longer at a 90-degree angle but resembles more of a 45-degree angle
This post was in a thread about Street Glide brakes and should apply to the Road King as well (Thank Heavy924 for all the work):
"First off I would like to thank Paul Jr. at Lyndall Racing because it was due to his efforts that I was able to solve my problem. In fact, initially, Paul made suggestions that did not include products that he sold in an effort to resolve my problem.
There are two types of noises that people typically complain about when it comes to brakes.
1. Whoosh or scraping noise when brakes are not applied.
This noise is a result of the brake pad making incidental contact with the rotor while the wheel is rotating. Many times the customer may complain of a noise that sounds like the rotor is warped and only striking the pad intermittently.
This is a result of the metallic composite material of the brake pad and is most prevalent in HD OEM (Factory) brakes.
Aftermarket suppliers such as Lyndall and EBC have various pads that reduce and or eliminate this condition altogether. My recommendation is Lyndall “Gold” or “Z” type pads. The “Gold” pads have a burnishing procedure that transfers brake pad properties over to the rotor thus reducing noise from different metals.
2. Harmonic noise, squeak or squeal when brakes are applied.
The noise that I had on my application was more a howl then a squeal. The noise began under normal braking conditions at approximately 30 mph and continued until I came to a complete stop. It was only coming from the front end and I could not isolate it to one side or the other.
Here is something to consider when diagnosing brake noises:
o Remember all brakes create sound waves whether they are applied or not. It is the frequency of the sound wave that changes. Unfortunately our bike has a rotor/wheel combination that amplifies the frequency to a level that the human ear can detect.
OK, now having said that, the frequency/range of this noise is so wide that the only "one size fits all" remedy is to install floating rotors. The rotors ride on pins that dampen the noise (reduce the frequency) to a level that the human ear cannot detect.
Assuming that the “one size fits all” remedy of floating rotors is not in your price range I have listed a set of options to select from:
1. Clean Caliper / Piston bore and shave pads. $ 0
2. Swapping rotors from side to side. $ 4.00
3. Installing EBC brake shims in both front calipers. $ 10.00
4. Clean Caliper / Piston bore and install pads. $ 50.00
Note:
Before removing the calipers I protected the front fender from paint damage as a result of the caliper striking the fender inadvertently. I used masking tape along the back of the fender where the caliper would hang when removed.
1. Clean Caliper / Piston bore and shave pads.
Right side:
o Make sure that the rotor was in good condition including thickness and lateral run-out.
o Remove the bolts that retained the caliper and separated it from the rotor assembly. Clean the rotor with brake cleaner and steel wool paying close attention to any unusual marks or abrasions on the rotor surface.
o This next step assumes that the pads are still at an acceptable thickness. If not, replace both pad sets for each rotor.
o With the caliper removed and the pads still in the caliper, actuate the front brake lever until the pads are pressed together. Remove the pads and clean the outside of each piston, removing any debris that might have collected on the piston or caliper. Then push each piston back into the bore until they were flush with the caliper surface.
o With a file, shave the leading edge of each pad such that the right angle on the pad is no longer at a 90-degree angle but resembles more of a 45-degree angle
Thread Starter
|
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,804
Likes: 1,198
From: SW Michigan
RE: New Member
Rarebare ,
Thank you for the detailed info about solving my problem. I'm confident now that Iwill riderelaxed not worrying about the next stop sign after this weekend when I intend to try some of the fixs.
Thank you to all for the welcomes also. All of your scoots look great. I'm sure there are folks here that I'll meet out on the road and I'm looking forward to that.I'll be here on the forum as much as I can but mostly in the evening.Y-all know how it is when work gets in the wayof fun.
Later,
Doug
Thank you for the detailed info about solving my problem. I'm confident now that Iwill riderelaxed not worrying about the next stop sign after this weekend when I intend to try some of the fixs.
Thank you to all for the welcomes also. All of your scoots look great. I'm sure there are folks here that I'll meet out on the road and I'm looking forward to that.I'll be here on the forum as much as I can but mostly in the evening.Y-all know how it is when work gets in the wayof fun.
Later,
Doug
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,728
Likes: 1
From: Olympia, Washington
RE: New Member
Welcome from Washington!
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