Wheel question???
Thread Starter
|
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 91
Likes: 5
From: Kelowna, B.C.
Wheel question???
I found a solid chrome 16x3" Rear Wheel under Craigslist for my 04' Dyna but it's from a 98' FXDWG - will it swap out using my existing rotor and sprocket or do I have to modify anything like the bearing or axle? Please help 
Last edited by johnnythrottle; Apr 2, 2013 at 11:23 PM. Reason: Better english...
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 160
Likes: 2
What you want to do is a daunting task because of different bearings and wheel spacers. But it can be done.
The WideGlide is also a Dyna but you need to check axle size first and make sure they are the same.
Harley moved to sealed bearings in 2000 - so the 04 has sealed bearings in it and the 98 has tapered roller bearings.
First use a screwdriver to pop the grease seals off the new wheel, then pull the bearings out - just put your finger in the axle hole and pull - they will come right out - along with the spacers and shims. Clean the grease off of everything with solvent really good. Now inspect the bearing races still inside the wheel. They need to be smooth with no scour or burn marks. Then inspect the bearings - I suggest you buy new bearings, they are cheap - but the old ones will work if they show little signs of wear.
Now you have to re-assemble everything (dry - no grease at all) hand tight leaving off only the grease seals. And check the end play - the axle moving back and forth in the bearings. It should be .014 to .018 max. You add or remove the shims to get this number.
I use a 12" piece of 3/4" all-thread as an axle to do this, but you can actually use the axle by putting a number of spacers on one side.
Once you get this far then torque the axle to 55 - 60 foot pounds and check again. If all is well then take everything apart and grease liberally and reassemble.
Now you must measure the difference in the bearing spacing (the tapered bearings sit farther inside the wheel than the sealed bearings) and make or buy extra spacers to seat the new wheel exactly where the old one was between the swing arm.
Simple! And good luck.
The WideGlide is also a Dyna but you need to check axle size first and make sure they are the same.
Harley moved to sealed bearings in 2000 - so the 04 has sealed bearings in it and the 98 has tapered roller bearings.
First use a screwdriver to pop the grease seals off the new wheel, then pull the bearings out - just put your finger in the axle hole and pull - they will come right out - along with the spacers and shims. Clean the grease off of everything with solvent really good. Now inspect the bearing races still inside the wheel. They need to be smooth with no scour or burn marks. Then inspect the bearings - I suggest you buy new bearings, they are cheap - but the old ones will work if they show little signs of wear.
Now you have to re-assemble everything (dry - no grease at all) hand tight leaving off only the grease seals. And check the end play - the axle moving back and forth in the bearings. It should be .014 to .018 max. You add or remove the shims to get this number.
I use a 12" piece of 3/4" all-thread as an axle to do this, but you can actually use the axle by putting a number of spacers on one side.
Once you get this far then torque the axle to 55 - 60 foot pounds and check again. If all is well then take everything apart and grease liberally and reassemble.
Now you must measure the difference in the bearing spacing (the tapered bearings sit farther inside the wheel than the sealed bearings) and make or buy extra spacers to seat the new wheel exactly where the old one was between the swing arm.
Simple! And good luck.
Thread Starter
|
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 91
Likes: 5
From: Kelowna, B.C.
Hey CouchMaster - your reply is concise and awesome. Makes this forum ROCK!
Seems that my dealership here in Canada won't touch this rim swap which is stupid considering I'll pay and wait for however long they need the bike - anyway Couch, you did mention purchasing new bearings for the 98 Rim - I'm wondering if these bearings will in fact be sealed as opposed to Tapered Roller type? Also I wonder does the wheel sit dead center between the swing arms or is it offset? I'm not sure how to get it precise either - can I create some sort of jig and take measurements before I remove the existing wheel?
Thanks in advance.
JT
Seems that my dealership here in Canada won't touch this rim swap which is stupid considering I'll pay and wait for however long they need the bike - anyway Couch, you did mention purchasing new bearings for the 98 Rim - I'm wondering if these bearings will in fact be sealed as opposed to Tapered Roller type? Also I wonder does the wheel sit dead center between the swing arms or is it offset? I'm not sure how to get it precise either - can I create some sort of jig and take measurements before I remove the existing wheel?
Thanks in advance.
JT
Last edited by johnnythrottle; Apr 8, 2013 at 11:25 PM.
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 160
Likes: 2
After the wheel was off of the bike I placed the axle spacer on the bearing and measured the distance from the top of the spacer to the lip on the wheel that centers the pully/rotor, with a dial caliper. I then did the same with the spacer on the other wheel and bearing. The difference told me how long I needed to make a spacer so the both dimensions would read the same. I came up with 1/4" on one side and 1/2" on the other. I double checked by adding washers to the new wheel to move the spacer up and measured again. This is a fool proof way to get it right.
By doing this the wheel is centered exactly in place as the old wheel. So if the old wheel was on the center line of the swing arm so will be the new one.
I cannot find sealed bearings to replace the tapered ones but you would still have the same spacing problems. I bought my bearings from NAPA auto parts for $7.49 each.
The most important thing is to get the end play correct. If you install the bearings too tight you will destroy the bearings and races. If they are too loose the wheel will wobble and also destroy the bearings. Get it right and the bearings will last 100,000 miles.
This might sound like a 2 or 3 day deal - and it might be at first - but once you do just one it then becomes a 15 minute job in the future; and you will grow to love tapered bearings because they are so easy to work with.
By doing this the wheel is centered exactly in place as the old wheel. So if the old wheel was on the center line of the swing arm so will be the new one.
I cannot find sealed bearings to replace the tapered ones but you would still have the same spacing problems. I bought my bearings from NAPA auto parts for $7.49 each.
The most important thing is to get the end play correct. If you install the bearings too tight you will destroy the bearings and races. If they are too loose the wheel will wobble and also destroy the bearings. Get it right and the bearings will last 100,000 miles.
This might sound like a 2 or 3 day deal - and it might be at first - but once you do just one it then becomes a 15 minute job in the future; and you will grow to love tapered bearings because they are so easy to work with.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
