Submitted by : Taildraggerdave (softail version)

There has been a lot of talk lately about the benefits of scavenging the crankcase when doing an oil change on your engine. There are good products out there that will help you do it but it can also be done by assembling a few small kit items that you can get locally.

To start with, Lisle Tools, and probably others make the tooling to remove your oil line quick connect. Check this link for Lisle-- http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=570 These can be purchased from your local Sears... HERE

Also says on the packaging that you can purchase the 3/8" tool (PN 37050) seperately (replacement tool) from the complete set from Lisle..

You will also need a length of 3/8" clear tubing that you will put over your oil return line, and a small bucket, preferably with ounces marked on the outside so you can see how much oil you have collected.

A typical scavenge type oil change might go something like this:

Step 1: Run the engine for a bit to get it up to temperature

Step 2: Block up the jiffy stand or use something to get your bike reasonably level.

Step 3: Remove plug from bottom of oil tank. Drain oil into container.

Step 4: Install drain plug and replace o-ring if it is torn. If it is still in good condition, reuse.

Step 5: Top off oil tank with fresh oil up to the full mark on the dipstick.

Step 6: Use the quick connect tooling and remove the oil return line from the oil tank. It is the one closest to the filler neck on the tank. If your bike has a small aluminum or chrome disc at the tank where the oil line goes in, just grab the disc with your fingers and pull it back. It is only held there by an o-ring to keep it from sliding down the oil line. Pull the line out a bit and move to side to allow you to slip the length of clear tubing over the line. Put the other end of the clear tubing in your scavenge oil bucket.

Step 7: Start the engine and run for about 10 seconds, then shut engine off. This is to purge the oil supply line from the tank, to the pump, then to the filter.

Step 8: Now is the time to remove and change the engine oil filter. Install whatever brand of oil filter you prefer on the engine at this time.

Step 9: Top off the oil tank again.

Step 10: Start the engine and monitor how much oil is going into the scavenge bucket. Notice how black it is at first. Around 30 seconds or so, it will start to lighten in color as it goes through the tubing. You should have collected somewhere around 24-32 ounces of dirty oil in the bucket. Shut off the engine.

Step 11: Remove the clear tubing from the oil line. Install the oil return line back into the oil tank. You will hear/feel a click as the line snaps back into the connector.

Step 12: Top off the oil tank.

That's it. Check for any leaks, wipe off the fingerprints and go ride. Now you know that your engine oil has been completely changed.

Installation pics for the scavenger system... HERE PDF


A total oil change on baggers is possible also but requires a different approach with a kit that has to be installed into the oil lines on the bike which is available here... http://www.roguechopper.com/

Click "products" after you see the video which is below the screen.

 

I believe this procedure could be simplified as follows and still be a scavenge oil change:
1) Drain oil tank and refill with fresh oil
2) Replace old oil filter with new one
3) Connect clear tube to oil return line
4) Run engine until return oil is clear (should be about 1 qt or slightly less)
5) Re-install oil return line into tank
6) Re-fill oil tank with fresh oil
7) Run engine and check for leaks

The new oil filter will remove the crud from the small amount of old oil which is in the oil line from the tank to the pump and in the passages from the pump to the filter. In all other respects the procedures are the same.

Comments!

 

Total waste of time.

 

And oil.

 

I don't know if it's a waste of time and oil although it is a little messy. I just did a top end and I want my oil to look like Tupelo honey when I whip out my dipstick.

 

Apparently you have never been to Tupelo...

 

I`ll bet Elvis` "dipstick" has, though......

 

To bring this one back for a moment: on the more recent Softail models, the header pipes seem to be in the way of easily removing the scavenger/return oil line from the tank. I tried it once and it required much more force than I felt comfortable applying. I managed in the end, but I bent that line to a VERY uncomfortable extent.

Anyone have a good idea how this can be made much easier? I don't really want to remove the headers for every oil change, especially since the rear O2 sensor needs to be unplugged, which in turn requires removal of the battery...

Thanks already, niv

 

Delete

 

Some say do it, some say it's a waste of time. I do it just because I want to.


I made one of these. Makes evacuating the case much easier.