Be forwarned that this is a long post, but I wanted to share my experiences with the folks on this forum. Hopefully by posting my mistakes I can help someone else to avoid doing the same stupid things that I did.

I've been busy the last few months setting up my Street Glide for good long-distance comfort. First I bought a Mustang seat and rider's backrest. Then I changed the windshield and shocks. All that remained to make my ride right for me was to swap out the handlebars. I needed bars which came further back towards me. Longer bars means longer cables. Chrome bars means chrome switch housings - you see where this is going.

Anyway, I had been putting off the handlebar project because I've done handlebars and cables on several of my previous bikes and it's not fun. I'm an ok wrench - better than some, worse than others. I have just enough mechanical ability to be dangerous. Unfortunately my bravery usually exceeds my skill level, so I frequently end up in projects that I wonder how in the world I ever got myself into in the first place.

I prefer to do the work on my bikes myself for 3 reasons: Save some money ($500 in this case), I know that the job has been done right, and no chance for the dealer to scratch my bike. If I put a scratch on my bike, I'm not nearly as upset as if I found that the dealer has done it. I don't know why I feel that way, but I do. Additionally, I love learning about my bike, and I also enjoy cleaning parts as I take them off of the bike.

The Chubby's WO575 bars are beautiful, made with impeccable quality. They are literally works of art. They are 1-1/4" diameter which is quite a bit wider than the 1" diameter of the stockers. 1-1/4" is the same diameter as the engine guard. Also, the Chubby's are chrome whereas the stock bar is stainless. The Chubby's are drilled for internal wiring - another plus. Of course on top of all of this is the 2" additional pullback that the Chubby's gives you. The Chubby's on the Street Glide make a dramatic improvement in both appearance and comfort.

Wild One (the manufacturer of Chubby's) says that the stock cables will work. It requires rerouting of cables and bending of the brake line to do it. Personally, I don't care for the look of the rerouted cables and bent brakeline, so I ordered all new cables. I wanted braided and I wanted black. I was unable to find anyone who makes black braided lines. I was firm on having braided, so I had to give up on black. Instead, I ordered Barnett platinum series cables. They are a very bright silver finish, much brighter than the typical dull silver of most braided cables. The platinum series Barnetts are thick - much thicker than their non-platinum braided cables. They look very beefy. I love the beefy look, but I'm not sure about the bright silver finish on my black bike. I'm getting use to it I think. Take a look at the pictures below and draw your own conclusions.

I had read previous posts on this forum about people who had installed WO575's on their Electra Glides. The posters recommended +4" for the cables, so I followed that advice. I wish that I hadn't. +4" worked very well for the clutch cable. However, it is much too long for all of the other cables, especially the brake lines. The throttle and idle cables, as well as the brake lines only needed about +1". +2" at the most. I was able to hide the extra slack in the fairing, but it wasn't easy. The problem is that you don't want these cables to be rubbing against anything, especially as you turn the handlebars left or right. When you have cables that are way too long, it is almost impossible to keep them from rubbing against something, no matter how many tie wraps you use. Everytime you turn the handlebars, if that cable is rubbing against something, it is wearing. With time, that steel braiding can cause damage to the rubbed components, especially if you ride as much as I do. I'm not sure why +4" worked for others and not f

 

Man those new bars sure look sweet! After reading that I will be staying with the stockers. It took me two beers to finish reading it and I feel a bit dizzy. One hek of a project, way beyond my pain threshold. I can't even remember what I did a couple of hours ago!
[sm=alcoholic.gif]

 

Great thread and they LOOK GREAT!!! Good job man!

 

I second Rhinohd great thread!

I had a laugh a couple times. I too had new bars put on my Street Glide. I went with Cyclsmith bars which are 1-1/4" in dia. and internally wired. I paid a shop $400.00 to internally wire them and install them. After reading your thread I'm glad I paid to have my installed. I'm pretty handy as well but that was a task I had no expirience with and I didn't want to learn the hard way.

The only post installation I had was that my handlebar clamps were never torqued correctly and I had to go back in and torque them down to keep the bars from moving. Other than that no problems.

Oh! and the ignition switch tumber issue.... I spent about a day and half on it wondering why my SG wouldn't start. In the end I discovered the tumbler was not engaging; therefore, I was not making the switch that allowed the motor to turn over. So been there done that....

All in all the bars look good and they cables look fantastic. I might get me a set too. They look good against the (pearl) black paint.

 

Doug,
Brings back recent memories. I did my RK this winter with W0508 bars. I agree with you on the quality issue...sweet. I encountered several of the same difficultties you had, and several new ones I invented. I went 2" over on the throttle and brake cables and 3" over on the clutch. Worked out well. On your brake light problem...check to see if a small brass spring clip may have popped out during assembly. You would hardly notice it. This clip sits between the brake light switch and the housing, to keep the switch in contact against the brake lever. If it popped out, then that could be your problem. I am a dangerous level wrench, as you, and found this to be a fun and satisfying accomplishment.....considering my limited skills. Now I'm ready to take on that 103 kit and gear cams...lol

 

Thanks Doug for the informative and entertaining post. Even though you ran into problems, you figured it out and as you said get to know your bike alot better. There is a great deal of satisfaction in doing it yourself. The completed project looks great (until your next project). "Knowing enough to be dangerous" also suits me quite well. Hey, you may have the record for the longest post too!

 

Details,,,, I Want Details...

I also run the wild'1s,,, not an easy job but I love them...

 

Thanks to all for the feedback. Again my apologies for the length of the post - I have a tendency to go into too much detail on things. My apologies also to Bountyhunter for driving him to drink (took him two beers just to get through my post).

BILL918-
I thought the same thing as you. My problem must be related to the spring loaded brass spacer. I rechecked - it was right where it should be, pressing against the brake light switch. I also checked the switch itself - it is fully flush against the inner wall of the switch housing just like it should be. In fact, I took digital pics every step of the way to play it safe. I have before and after pics of the brass spacer and the switch. Both the switch and the spacer look identical in the before and after pics. I'm still mystified by this one. I'm wondering if there is a piece that goes on the outside of the switch that might have fallen off. My before pics don't have the proper angle to show if there was such a piece.

Thanks for the suggestion though!

Doug

 

Those bars look good...I would have lost my patience long before I would have finished...

 

Nice story. Hey Doug, that is by far the best looking SG, I’ve seen. That windshield looks sweet. It’s clean. Very clean.