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When you do the fan/pump test you should have voltage at the pump electrical connector. I'd check that....
Unplug 235B and put a multimeter over pins A and B. If you get voltage (during test/fans are running) then the pump is bad.
If you don't get voltage, check continuity from pin B to Ground. If no continuity, you have a bad ground - check the wire back to where it's grounded. Few more steps below...
Great info. I just took it out for a ride and after about 5 miles at 65 degree temperature the hot engine light came on. When this started it would generally go off in 15-30 seconds but now stays on for several miles. I stopped and checked and the fans were not on either. I check out the tests recommended today and see what I find. I think it's odd how this is happening in that when it first started the light came on erratically. I drove over a hundred miles and it never came on. Other times it would come off and on. Earlier when it was first happening I would pull in with the temp light on and when I shut it down the fans were operating. I would think if the pump was bad it would just stop working. Perplexing!
Okay, the end of a saga. I took my bike into Harley Davidson because they said the pump would be covered under the one year warranty. They found that my shop that had installed my pump upgrade failed to put a hose clamp on the right radiator! It figures that it would not be the left one because I had that out to install a new temperature sensor. Bottom line is that my pump and sensor were fine. Apparently the system would leak coolant but not enough to notice. It took 6,000 miles to have it become a problem. Go figure! Anyway, thanks again to all for the many suggestions.
Leaking or "steaming" coolant out thru the bad "connection" (loose hose)... then it can't pull coolant into the system from the reservoir as it cools, because it sucks air in instead thru the loose hose... winds up low on antifreeze in the system... but the reservoir's fine. Its the little things lol
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