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I flashed my bike with recommended tune from V&H and I know it runs much better than stock tune. I am very happy and wonder why in auto tune I need to worry about filling all the squares that I don't normally ride in? After a couple rides that is your style of riding and why try to reach places in the tune that you don't normally ride ? Also how do you get screen shots so they become pictures?
I am listening if any one can explain to me why auto tune needs to have max amount of green hits ?
If one were to compare the AFR numbers of a pure stock HD EFI to any canned or dyno tune AFR map, its easy to see that additional fuel is needed to get these things running correctly. It is well known that the stock AFR's are rather lean to allow HD to pass the EPA emission regs, noise regs & so forth. Even a pure stock motor, intake & exhaust can benefit from a little extra fuel and maybe minor timing adjustments.
Now take a standard Stage 1 where the new aircleaner allows more raw air & the exhaust allows a fast exit for the exhaust gasses, without adding more fuel, you'll get a very lean hot motor that doesn't run very well & "could" under correct circumstances, end up doing a melt down internally. So we add in an adjustable EFI controller to add fuel which generally makes it better to ride & just a bit more fun.
As a personal note.... had I planned cams, new full exhaust and/or head work, I would not have picked the FP3. Ive had my share of hot rods so on the 14, its stage 1.... for now.
I just got a Power package from FM, By this Wednesday night I should have My no cat head pipe, air cleaner, and slip ons installed. V&H gave me what map to put in to the FP-3. I will then find out for my self how this thing works.
I flashed my bike with recommended tune from V&H and I know it runs much better than stock tune. I am very happy and wonder why in auto tune I need to worry about filling all the squares that I don't normally ride in? After a couple rides that is your style of riding and why try to reach places in the tune that you don't normally ride ? Also how do you get screen shots so they become pictures?
I am listening if any one can explain to me why auto tune needs to have max amount of green hits ?
Hap
If you look at the OP's screen shot, He has green in the areas (RPM X TPS) (TPS=Throttle Position Sensor) he probably spends most of his time riding. But if you look at the low RPM area the only cell that's green is at idle 1000rpm X 3% TPS. The orange or white cells above that are an area he rides through when taking off from a stop that's not tuned until he reaches the areas that are green starting at 1750rpm X 7% tps. If he gets those orange areas to turn green he will be tuned while accelerating from a stop. If you look at the higher RPM areas that are still orange which are pretty much everything above 20% throttle, He will need those areas when accelerating to pass someone on a two lane highway, going up a steep hill, or into a strong headwind at highway speeds. That's when you want the most power from your bike so it's a good idea to get those cells green also. I agree there are some areas in the table you'll never hit like 100% TPS at 1000 RPM. The areas that are orange are areas (cells) he hit but wasn't in them long enough for the FP3 to complete the auto tune. That's why V&H says you should get a football shaped area green to have a good tune.
Edit to add: To get a screen shot on an Android phone you have to push and hold the Home and power button at the same time. You'll hear the camera click sound when it captures it. Not sure how you do it on an Apple or Windows phone. I'm sure you can Google it or ask Siri on an iPhone.
Last edited by Greg2012FLHTK; May 2, 2015 at 08:49 AM.
I agree with Greg's post above but want to clarify one point. Just because you haven't turned all those other cells green, it doesn't mean those areas aren't tuned. They still have the base or canned tune that was first flashed before the auto tune was started. Those cells only haven't been "auto tuned" which may not need to be changed or fine tuned anyway. Green just means those areas have been hit during the auto tune run and changed if need be. Remember that the canned map from V&H is very close to being spot on anyway and actually could be spot on.
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