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Front Fork Black Out - How Difficult?

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Old May 1, 2015 | 06:37 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by captjac
What weight fork oil did you put back in? I was thinking of 10W probably Bel-Ray 10W.
I can't exactly remember. It was between the factory original or the Screaming Eagle Type E Fork Oil. I choose the Screaming Eagle.
 
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Old May 1, 2015 | 11:11 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 06SGWA
You got hosed. There is absolutely no reason for all that extra work. It's an easy job and after doing it once, I could probably do it a second time in about an hour.
How did I get hosed - only paid the guy $100 to change them out as part of other work he was doing for me and that included fork new seals and oil....
 
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Old May 1, 2015 | 11:50 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by JMC22
How did I get hosed - only paid the guy $100 to change them out as part of other work he was doing for me and that included fork new seals and oil....
Sounds about as legit as your mystery manual instructions.
 
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Old May 1, 2015 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 06SGWA
Sounds about as legit as your mystery manual instructions.
Mystery solved - maybe you can assist with AirAsia Flight QZ8501
 
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Old May 1, 2015 | 04:23 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by JMC22
I just had my guy do mine - he had to take off both the inner and outer fairing, which entails removing just about everything inside the inner fairing - then the fork legs
Originally Posted by JMC22
The Manual even says to remove both fairings - I don't know of a single business owner that would do more work then one has to
Your invoice doesn't excuse you from posting incorrect info. I'm off to go find Oceanic Flight 815 now.
 
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Old May 3, 2015 | 11:28 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by captjac
Can you be more specific as what Fork Cap removal tool you used. It was my understanding that a 19mm hex bit socket was needed to remove the Fork Cap and a 12 mm Long hex bit to remove the spring.

Im doing research and buying tools to put chrome lowers and Low Profile Premium Ride Single Cartridge Fork Kit on my bike.

Thanks in advance

How long does the 12mm bit need to be? Im rounding up tools too.

Also, instead of a strap wrench to secure the shock for tightening can I just put the fork back in the bike and snug it then?

Thanks
 
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Old May 6, 2015 | 04:18 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Big_Black
How long does the 12mm bit need to be? Im rounding up tools too.

Also, instead of a strap wrench to secure the shock for tightening can I just put the fork back in the bike and snug it then?

Thanks
Sorry, I was MIA for a few days!

The 12mm hex does not have to be that long (1"). I used an impact wrench to loosen this bolt and it worked very well.

You could loosen/tighten the fork cap while the fork is in the bike. That might require moving the fairings out of the way depending on which tools you have to get in there.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2015 | 09:31 PM
  #28  
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I am getting ready to black out the front end of my Ultra. I think I will try to do it myself, can't be as hard as installing the apes
 
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Old Nov 25, 2015 | 10:18 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Jshipley90
I am getting ready to black out the front end of my Ultra. I think I will try to do it myself, can't be as hard as installing the apes
It's easy enough other than getting the top caps back on...........might be easier if you weigh 300lbs.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2015 | 12:28 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by dkclimber
Sorry, I was MIA for a few days!

The 12mm hex does not have to be that long (1"). I used an impact wrench to loosen this bolt and it worked very well.

You could loosen/tighten the fork cap while the fork is in the bike. That might require moving the fairings out of the way depending on which tools you have to get in there.
No way in 1 inch long enough, this one is 2-3/8" long and you can see how little is left over when its seated.

 
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