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21" Wheel Question

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Old Dec 1, 2015 | 07:34 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 46knuck
Just an FYI I ran a 21" for many years and found tire life was short so don't be surprised when front end gets a little unstable it is because of wear.
I am kind of leaning towards a 19 largely due to budget and minimal work on the bike. Hopefully your reference is reduced in that size area.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2015 | 08:24 PM
  #12  
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I'm running the progressive lowering kit set at 1-1/2" and a DIY Air Ride on the back. In these two pics the rear is down 1" and combined with the 1-1/2 down in the front it rides and handles great and set like this it retains the stock trail geometry.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 09:33 AM
  #13  
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My first question is what is "short tire life" on the front wheel for you 46knuck?

The difference in price between a 19" and 21" front wheel is extremely minimal if there is any at all. The first thing you need to know about buying wheels direct from Harley is that they sell all components separately and then charge labor to install said components. So for example lets say the wheel is $749. Then you need to buy the bearing kit (no clue on cost), tire, etc and then pay labor to have this stuff all assembled. If youa re also paying them labor to install the wheel you will probably be at a higher cost than buying a wheel from a manufacturer such as us which will come preassembled with the tire mounted and balanced and rotors (should you get them) ready to bolt on the bike.

The only additional part required for a 21" front wheel on your 2015 bagger is a set of brackets to raise the stock front fender. If you are good at working deals they can usually be figured in to the total cost as they have a minimal cost compared to everything else.

I would not do a 19" wheel as to me for the same cost or very close I can get a bigger wheel that looks better. That is me and my thinking. Been running 21" front wheels on all my bikes for many many years without issue. Tire life on my current bagger (2013 FLTRX) for the front 120/70/21 tire depends on brand. I usually get 1 front to 1.5 rear tire and rears usually get about 12000 on the current bike.

This can all change and depends on tires. For your 2015 ABS police model you will need to run a Dunlop 130/60/21 which matches the stock rear tire. I have not personally run that tire so I do not have any feedback on tire life.

I am running several specials on 21" wheels right now (19"'s too) and can make you a great holiday deal. If you need pricing or have any questions please feel free to call and we can discuss options and potential issues.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 10:02 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by FireFighter200
I am looking to do a 21" wheel over the winter. I was told that you should lower the front of bike by 1" to keep the same riding height. How many people did this when they switched and how many did not. If you did not lower the front, was it noticeable?

While I'm not looking to do it this winter, I've been debating on 21" v 23" lately. I'm doing all my research now so I can make an informed decision when it comes time to pull the trigger. I ride my bike. A lot. I don't want to do anything that would compromise the comfort and handling for looks. To be honest, I never thought I would be looking at doing a 23" wheel on my bike. A 23" is the absolute biggest I would go however; I just can't get over how sick some of these bikes look, and if it retains the ride I have now I'll do it.


Bad-*** looking bike btw FireFighter; love what you've done with it.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 10:57 AM
  #15  
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If you do a 23" with the proper components it will handle as good if not better than stock. The addition of the 23" triple trees which are much beefier than a stock trees will allow the bike to ride great.

This is the dilemma of every customer whom I speak with. It really comes down to how much work you want to do to put the components on the bike.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 12:40 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Hogpro
If you do a 23" with the proper components it will handle as good if not better than stock. The addition of the 23" triple trees which are much beefier than a stock trees will allow the bike to ride great.

This is the dilemma of every customer whom I speak with. It really comes down to how much work you want to do to put the components on the bike.
I believe it was you whom I spoke with the other day regarding my dilemma; I'm leaning pretty hard toward the 23". Just a matter of picking the right style fender and wheel at this point.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 01:00 PM
  #17  
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I plan to go with a 21" with OEM rear wheel without lowering the front end very soon. I do plan on installing air ride in the rear.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 01:07 PM
  #18  
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We are doing a 21" front with a 16 rear as I type in the shop. I'll get some pics up for you guys once it is finished.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 01:36 PM
  #19  
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I'll probably call you later today to get some pricing. dealer was looking at about 1800.00 installed for the complete kit + labor for the front wheel but the rim is kind of a bit more pain than i would prefer. I wrote down a couple of your models last night that i liked so we'll see we can come too.

I am also looking at some coastalmoto rims as well. If the cost is minimal or nonexistent difference between 19 and 21 then I'll probably do the 21. I may have to have a local indy dealer do the install as i lack a jack and such. but probably better labor rates.

Thanks for the input.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 02:11 PM
  #20  
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Usually an hour is more than enough time to install a front wheel that is already ready to bolt on the bike. On your bike with a 21" the fender brackets have to be done as well which takes a a little bit of time.

Give me a call when you h ave a chance and we can discuss options for that clean ride.
 
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