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The biggest mistake I see people do when washing or detailing anything with black paint is using synthetic fiber cloths to clean and dry. Even some microfiber cloths can cause microscopic swirl marks. Test it before using.
The only acceptable cloth material to use on black paint is one made of 100% cotton...and I mean 100%. Some cotton cloths will contain synthetic threading around the edges. Don't use them! And above all, never attempt to clean or remove dust on a dry paint surface. Wait until you can apply a good amount of wash soap and water to loosen the dirt up off the surface or you will scratch the paint...guaranteed.
I use microfiber but I'm guilty of dry washing with a spray dry wash when I get to a camping destination weekend and no car wash is available. I know how my micro scratches got there, by me. If you buff out your scratches and swirls too often eventually you will run out of clear coat and the actual paint will start getting scratched. Like I said, when it's time to sell I'll have a pro buff everything out of my thick clear coat layer and the bike will look like a garage queen with about 100k miles on it, lol.
The biggest mistake I see people do when washing or detailing anything with black paint is using synthetic fiber cloths to clean and dry. Even some microfiber cloths can cause microscopic swirl marks. Test it before using.
The only acceptable cloth material to use on black paint is one made of 100% cotton...and I mean 100%. Some cotton cloths will contain synthetic threading around the edges. Don't use them! And above all, never attempt to clean or remove dust on a dry paint surface. Wait until you can apply a good amount of wash soap and water to loosen the dirt up off the surface or you will scratch the paint...guaranteed.
You're 100% correct on the cotton content. That's why I invested in a Blaster Dryer years ago. Never touch the surface with towels unless micro-fibre to buff off wax or glaze.
You're 100% correct on the cotton content. That's why I invested in a Blaster Dryer years ago. Never touch the surface with towels unless micro-fibre to buff off wax or glaze.
Not always practical when we tour for days and days on a touring bike, lol.
I gave my Road Glide the full Turtle Jet Black treatment last weekend. I am absolutely gob smacked how fantastic my 1 year old daily rider looks now.
I normally can't see much of a difference between 1 wax or another, but this stuff has made my bike look better than showroom. Second best thing about this stuff is how easy it is to buff off.
I've now had 3 days of crappy weather with rain every day coming and going to work and it still looks fabulous.
I'm going to add a few coats of Armor All Extreme Shield Wax for some added protection because I'm heading off on a 10,000 mile, 4 week around Australia ride in 2 weeks time.
Yep I will second that. Just finished giving my 2014 flhx in vivid black the Turtle Wax Black Box treatment. Im equally impressed.
I hear ya, HD paint is notorious for being thin and easy to show wear. Never been real impressed with HD paint. Planning a better paint job in the future. But no matter what, you will be in contact more with the paint on your scoot than car or truck.
I've owned nothing but black vehicles for years. These are the products that I swear by. Read everything you can on the site, there is quite a bit of info.
I've found Wizards to make great products with great results I use them on my autos and the scoot. Fine scratches are inevitable and they just are easier to see on black paint. I use the wizards mystic cut and then the shine master and it removes fine scratches and leaves a very nice finish I do this as needed. I also use the bug release and mist and shine on the almost daily. http://wizardsproducts.com/motorcycle/
You're 100% correct on the cotton content. That's why I invested in a Blaster Dryer years ago. Never touch the surface with towels unless micro-fibre to buff off wax or glaze.
I must also agree the that right 100% is the way to go
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