Sent you a PM, i see what you are saying, the 17 up SGS has a 4 pin P&A connector on the left side, the kit you references is for an 8 pin connector. Ive searched for the 3rd switch wire lead, i have the 2nd.

 

Yea, after talking with you, I see H-D did make changes for 17 & later Rushmores. My previous post only applies to 14-16 Rushmores. You can add the switch to the center position of the left switchpack, but not the right position of the left switchpack.

Looks like the 71400129 kit is what's needed to add a switched power circuit run from the right console switchpack.

It does look as though you might be able to use the left console middle switch and the switched circuit adapter harness 69201706 shown on page 559 of 18 P&A catalog. If you're only adding a single circuit, this would be a much less expensive way to go:
$16 for 71400044 switch (place in center position of left console switchpack)
$20 for 69201706 adapter harness (plug into 4 pin Accessories connector)
$30 for 69201599A harness (plug into other end of the 706 adapter harness)

I'll try to check it out to see if this will work. Difference of $66 or $140.

 

I am trying to determine if I need anything beyond what's included in this kit in order to add the black passing light brakets, signals and fog light housings to my 2015 SGS.
https://www.harley-davidson.com/store/custom-auxiliary-lighting-kit-pa-11-67800366--1

The instructions for this kit do not mention any other harnesses needed. Is that true? Previous posts have mentioned other harnesses and switches but this kit already has the switch pack but doesn't appear to have this harness (https://www.harley-davidson.com/stor...-fairing-mount).

Anybody used this kit for their StreetGlide? (67800366)

 

You'll need lights to put in the housings? Don't think they're included.

I'm pretty sure the wiring is already there on the bike; my Service Manual indicates it's only missing from 31LB & 31RB (pin 4) to the lights. There's no model differentiation in the wiring up to 31LA & 31RA. So if pin 4 on the A side of those connectors have wire in Pin 4, you should be good?

 

Thanks, I have lights, HDs site says those aren't included as did a couple of the reviews for the kit. As long as the wiring is there (won't know till I take the dash apart), then I should have everything else I need. Went the cheap route and purchased the components on eBAY and referenced the kits instructions and parts list for what I'd need that I wasn't able to get on eBAY. The harness was a worry since HDs site parts list/instructions didn't say anything about it. Hope its there!

 

what's the point in connecting the "Fused 1/4 inch ring wire harness" or B+ adapter to the battery? What does that wire do?

I have the harness but haven't done anything other than make sure it plugs into the plug next to the ABS. I've read through the instructions but they just kind of meander around about that B+ wire. It says at the end to install the fuse, but I don't see where it provides any purpose.

 

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I think I figured it out. That B+ adapter plugs into the back side of the Molex connector.

I'll probably try and put it all together tomorrow. Problem is the gas tank is full and I need to pull it to run the power cable to the front. Oh well, beats watching tv. Guess I'll drain the tank and get it done.

 

 

I thought I can contribute to this thread. After looking at all the videos and forums I could find on this topic it was still confusing how to install the Fairing Dash Auxiliary Switch Kit pn 71400129.

I have a 2020 batwing Electra Glide Standard.

There are two supplied harnesses in the kit. One provides power to male side of the Accessory Connector 325 B under the right side cover. The other harness has several ends and provides the female connection to 325B called D(325A) and also plugs into the Accessory Connector (4A) under the left side cover. This harness has two output leads: Accessory 1 uses a 20 amp relay. It is switched from the middle dash switch from the kit; the Accessory 2 lead includes 3 wires These wires provide a 2 amp lead that is switched using dash switch and a black ground wire and a non switched red power wire. The wires in Accessory 2 are limited to 2 amps each. You can use two separate 2 amp accessories from this three wire lead (one switched from the third switch location on the dash switches, and the other lead is unswitched power). Using this kit will provide two dash switches on the right side of the dash.

But wait... if you pull back the sheath on the Accessory 2 lead that has the three wire harness you will find ANOTHER hidden green/blue lead. As I understand it, this lead is switched from the middle switch on the LEFT side. You will have to get the left dash switch pack and install a HD $15 accessory switch in the middle slot to switch this hidden lead. I have not hooked my hidden lead up yet, but I can confirm it is inside the Accessory 2 harness sheath and from the HD wiring diagram (and a YouTube video I saw) it is switched from the left side and just shares one of the slots in connector D (4A) that is part of this kit.

I followed what I saw on YouTube to tear apart the 325B connector to install the power lead wire into 325B under the right side cover. It is actually pretty easy. Get a small screwdriver and stick it into the slot on the white face of the 325B connector. Pry it up using gentle force and it will click and pop up to the first level. Do it again with a little more force and that entire white face of the front of the connector will pop completely out. Then I pushed that white plug out from inside the connector. Push inside out and it will slide out the back. Then look at the orientation of the two wire inside that connector and install the kit red power wire in through the back until it clicks into place. Wiggle the wire ends that are inside the connector until they look uniform and place the white face back over the connector and gently wiggle it until it slides in over the wires and snap it back into place.

The female part of the 325B plug that is still on the bike is just a dummy cover. Lift up on the white clip holding it in place and it will pull out toward you and out of the bike. You can now discard that dummy plug cover because the connector called D (325A) from the kit harness snaps back into where you just removed the dummy cover. And the opposite end of the connector that you just added the red power wire 325B snaps into the kit harness D (325A) Connector. So 325B snaps into the kit harness 325A connector and you toss the dummy cover and clip the connector back to the bike.

It takes a bit of trial and error to fish the entire kit harness and relay through the bike to connect from the right side to the left side connector into 4A inside the left cover. I found that I had plenty of room on the harness if I ran the harness UNDER the existing electrical loom that crosses the bike near the back end of the tank. I did have to loosen the top two bolts holding the left side electrical panel to shimmy the 4A connector from the wiring kit harness out to the 4A connector that is clipped in the left side panel.

All of the accessory leads will terminate by the back end of the tank. You will have to decide where you want your actual accessories (such as fog lights, LED accent lights, or garage door opener) and use the terminated wires from the kit harness to fit your needs.

To remove the dash plate to install the switch pack I chose to remove the ignition switch and the top faceplate of the tank. It just make it so much easier to remove the faceplate to install the switch pack. The bike’s left and right das switch harnesses are parked into the blank switch plates under that dash cover. So if you remove that dash cover you can easily see the right and left switch harness connectors. Just squeeze the connectors and the connectors pull out.

You can YouTube “how to remove the Harley ignition switch” and there are a number of short videos showing how to do it. It literally takes 30 seconds.

I wanted to add the third switch for the kit, and I actually bought a single switch linking it should turn some connector on. As far as I can tell now, you would have to rebuild the harness connector that plugs into the switch pack to make that switch work. So I’ll save that for another day.

Good Luck Y’all!