Ordered the Header Breather System from DK Custom
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 1,080
Likes: 103
From: Lake County, CA
I have been reading a lot of threads about this. What the internal parts of the engine looks like due to the oil and or other byproducts that go through the TB. I have 4,300 miles on her now and would like her to last as long as I can. They're telling me I should see it Monday. I still have the original Breather bolts with the nipple 
on the tip. Should be an easy install with the SE High Flow A/C. I am stoked.....
on the tip. Should be an easy install with the SE High Flow A/C. I am stoked.....
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 1,080
Likes: 103
From: Lake County, CA
MChad several people go as far to say you only have a problem of excess oil through the Head Breather, when you overfill the oil. Well I know for a fact that when my 01 Indian Scout, which has the S&S 88 in it, she will leak a milky oil substance on the ground when I let her sit for a couple of weeks in the cooler weather. Moisture gets in the engine and when it warms up it kinda bubbles out of the head vents. On the Indian it drips on the floor. HD has the problem with the EPA so they can't do it. My brother has a 2000 CVO SERG. His also funnels into the A/C and drips oil from the cover. He has 50,000 mile on it. If he keeps it I will do the 50,00 service and change his system as well. Would be even easier, all I would need is the filter. But he is looking at a 17 or 16 RGU. So I may not have to do anything to the 2000, since he would trade it in.
Good chatting with you
Good chatting with you
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 1,080
Likes: 103
From: Lake County, CA
I am even going to do an Auto tune again with my FP3 and apply learned avlues about 3 times. I wouldn't doubt it would even be better. Again I am so happy I did the little investment.....
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,937
Likes: 320
From: Vancouver, WA
An external breather is a good idea but don't overthink it. I kinda doubt the credibility of the two pictures shown with and without a breather at 8,000 miles. Don't get me wrong, I did a breather too but I doubt that it works miracles. BTW, I did an auto tune after adding the breather too but I also had taken off my SE intake and put the stock one back on but with a K&N element. I couldn't tell the difference either. I didn't like the induction sound with the SE intake.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,807
Likes: 1,488
From: SW Washington State
1000's of bikes run as they came out of the factory without issue. The aftermarket makes 1000's of dollars off the rest. Everyone makes their own way through this life of ours.
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Club Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 10,734
Likes: 3,755
From: SWFL
I picked up a cheap-o drill press from Amazon, which makes it really easy. That for the hose barbs to vent. I tap and fill the internal vent holes to the TB with a 6mm set screw secured with oil resistant red loctite. As an extra step i fill the same vent tube from the top side with JB weld injected through a curved syringe. Never liked the idea of any oil sitting on top of the set screws, oil resistant loctite or not...
Here's one I did to an Arlen Ness Big Sucker
And a HD Ventilator
Most recently did it to my Heavy Breather on my LR-S.
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It gives me something to do to new bikes...
I picked up a cheap-o drill press from Amazon, which makes it really easy. That for the hose barbs to vent. I tap and fill the internal vent holes to the TB with a 6mm set screw secured with oil resistant red loctite. As an extra step i fill the same vent tube from the top side with JB weld injected through a curved syringe. Never liked the idea of any oil sitting on top of the set screws, oil resistant loctite or not...
I picked up a cheap-o drill press from Amazon, which makes it really easy. That for the hose barbs to vent. I tap and fill the internal vent holes to the TB with a 6mm set screw secured with oil resistant red loctite. As an extra step i fill the same vent tube from the top side with JB weld injected through a curved syringe. Never liked the idea of any oil sitting on top of the set screws, oil resistant loctite or not...
I used a zippers back plate and oem rushmore vent hoses to route mine. I am wanting to get a SE Heavy Breather and would like to vent it like yours.
Thanks
Club Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 10,734
Likes: 3,755
From: SWFL
The 1/8 NPT tap needs 11/32 bit, and the 6mm set screw needs a 5.2mm bit.
These are the parts I used:
Barbs
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Set screws
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Syringe to "inject" JB Weld
https://www.amazon.com/Syringe-Only-...Curved+syringe
And Loctite 263 (high strength - oil resistant)
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-13305...ds=Loctite+263
All that stuff, some 3/8 fuel line for the vent, and last but not least something for the end...
Chrome
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Black
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That should cover it.
Some tips. Measure fifteen times! I ruined a backplate on my LR-S because I forgot about the TBW servo sticking out. You have to angle the barb to the back of the bike about 15-20 deg from vertical to clear it. No worries on the front.
Other then that, a drill press and a vice is highly recommended. Any questions, pm me. I've hijacked this thread enough! Sorry Silverado! (GREAT movie btw, if that's where it comes from)
Edit: to add, the breather channels that I tapped, don't need the drill press. A hand drill just to get the hole wide enough for the tap to grab, and you don't even need to if you muscle the tap in enough to grab. Just keep inward pressure for the first 1/4" or so.
Last edited by Mchad; Jan 24, 2017 at 06:30 AM.
