2014-2024 Touring Models This Section Is For Rushmore and Gen 1 M8 Touring models from 2014 to 2024
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Old Apr 5, 2018 | 02:27 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by rott_lab
Did you measure per Howard's instructions and come up with that spacer location? I'm just asking because it seems odd mine didn't need anything to offset the shock for alignment, and yours did. Makes me wonder if I screwed up....
Used the straight edge and also mounted the bottom part of the shock first then rotated it up to the top and I was off also there by 1 spacer....
 
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Old Apr 5, 2018 | 02:30 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Notgrownup
Used the straight edge and also mounted the bottom part of the shock first then rotated it up to the top and I was off also there by 1 spacer....
This all makes me nervous...but that's natural for me. I'm thinking I may take one of the shocks off again and check. Mine sure looked good, but maybe I had one too many beers while I was doing it?
 
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Old Apr 5, 2018 | 02:53 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by rott_lab
This all makes me nervous...but that's natural for me. I'm thinking I may take one of the shocks off again and check. Mine sure looked good, but maybe I had one too many beers while I was doing it?


It worried me as well. I looked at it like 20 times before I torqued them down the last time...I just wanted them to be in a natural position going straight up n down and not look like they were binding... It sounded complicated but I guess makes sense the way Howard explained it because you want them to be as straight up as possible... When I look at them from the back side of the bike they look to be very symmetrically installed.
I wish he had a video on his website showing this...The bottom bolt installed I guess is as 90 degree as it gets, then you use the surface of the threads as a straight area to use the straight edge... Assuming your straight edge is actually straight.. then it would go 100% 90 degree up...fill the gap with a spacer if there is one...
 
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Old Apr 5, 2018 | 02:56 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Notgrownup
It worried me as well. I looked at it like 20 times before I torqued them down the last time...I just wanted them to be in a natural position going straight up n down and not look like they were binding... It sounded complicated but I guess makes sense the way Howard explained it because you want them to be as straight up as possible... When I look at them from the back side of the bike they look to be very symmetrically installed.
I wish he had a video on his website showing this...The bottom bolt installed I guess is as 90 degree as it gets, then you use the surface of the threads as a straight area to use the straight edge... Assuming your straight edge is actually straight.. then it would go 100% 90 degree up...fill the gap with a spacer if there is one...
Yea, I guess I'll verify one more time on mine. Nothing like spending a little quality time with the bike...especially since the weather isn't good enough to ride it anyway. Did you use Blue loc-tite on the bolts like the manual recommneds?
 
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Old Apr 5, 2018 | 03:18 PM
  #25  
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Forgive me if this is dumb, but are these shocks one of those changes you make and wished you did it many miles ago?

I'm coming from a lowered Dyna, so to me, my SGS is a two wheeled version of a Caddy. Have about 10k on it now and still haven't even thought to change shocks.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2018 | 03:22 PM
  #26  
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I'll let others answer that directly, as all I've done so far is sit on mine in the garage. I will say that even just sitting on it in the garage is a big improvement. With the factory shocks (HD premium hand adjustable), they wouldn't even budge if I tried to bounce on it, and yes the setting was at the lowest possible setting. I'm just scrawny...lol. With the 3-3's, there is actual movement, and absorption...so nice. Haha.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2018 | 03:25 PM
  #27  
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If you are satisfied with them and it rides great to you then don't worry about it... I cam from a Sportster and went to a Electra Glide so it was plush.. but now I see what the difference is.
There is always room to improve something but if you don't know any better you just don't which is where I was last week.
I bottomed out with my wife on the back too many times and I just wanted something better and more comfortable...
Mind you, I had almost 100000 miles on my shocks, changed the oil 1 time in them so they were getting replaced with something , I just didn't want to half a$$ it.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2018 | 03:59 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by hbsoldier3
If there is a gap between the lower and upper shock mounting points, you use use shims/spacers. You put a bolt in the lower mount then use a straight edge, rotate it up to the upper mount up to see if there is a gap. If there is you shim/space that gap.
Did you have to shim yours? I just installed the sleeves and the upper/lower inner/outer washers. There were no shims.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2018 | 04:32 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Stroked16
Forgive me if this is dumb, but are these shocks one of those changes you make and wished you did it many miles ago?

I'm coming from a lowered Dyna, so to me, my SGS is a two wheeled version of a Caddy. Have about 10k on it now and still haven't even thought to change shocks.
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Originally Posted by GalvTexGuy
Did you have to shim yours? I just installed the sleeves and the upper/lower inner/outer washers. There were no shims.
I had about a 3/16" gap on the upper left mount. Went to the hardware store and got a lock washer and compressed it, to use a shim.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2018 | 01:34 PM
  #30  
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I was really fussy checking my 3-3's, ended up with a small shim top right shock and bottom left shock. Also lowered my shocks slightly maybe 3/8". I immediately noticed I was sitting high just by looking over the windshield.
 
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