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My bike is a 2014 Street Glide Special.
I installed a set of Fox rear touring shocks with adjustable rebound that I got via a door prize recently and after much tweaking the bike rides really good by myself, rides amazing with the wife on board. The shocks are Heavy Duty with minimum weight of 240 and I am only 205 so the ride single is not what it could be --- But is good enough that the front now felt totally "disconnected" from the road . I had the local Harley shop install the pro-action front fork kit 2 days ago (Saturday morning)--- I rode the rest of the day Saturday and most of Sunday and I am happy that I got that kit installed.
The ride up front could now be called "firmer" but to me the more appropriate term would be "more connected". I am very happy with the end result of the pro action front fork kit.
I have had 3 Harley touring bikes. I did the heavier fork oil in the first and i rode much stiffer. If that's what you want fine. But don't agree with the guys that are saying it rides better. Much rougher in my opinion. I stay with the stock oil in forks. And I also had a 1983 Yamaha Venture. It had anti dive front forks clear back then. But as usual Harley is way behind. I love my Harley's. But feel it's stupid that we immediately have to start over hauling them to get them right. And I do that as well. Could be some of the reasons they are not selling well. That and for me they are pricing themselves out of business. I have a 2015 Limited Low and it will be my last.
I replaced the stock 5w in my 17 CVO Ultra Limited to Maxima 20w this weekend. There are pros and cons to the thicker oil.
Pros: approximately 80% of the brake dive is gone.
Definitely handles better
Cons: You feel everything...... good and bad. On a long ride especially on bumpy country I can see where it would be uncomfortable after a while.
At 17K on the forks, the old oil looked like day old coffee with metal shavings in it (I don't know how Moco expects a set of forks to go 50K between services). I'll be buying the Pro-Action setup eventually. But for now, I have $30 in the current "fix", so no complaints.
I grew up on dirt bikes & quads so I'm not expecting my Ultra Classic to ride like a Lincoln or a Cadillac. I'd rather feel what I'm riding over. Feels more planted on to the ground to me with 15 wt. My stock fluid which was probably 5 wt cause the front end to bottom out & bounce all over the place. I'm tempted to go with 20 wt next time.
Your forks are designed to use most of their travel with heavy front braking. If they are bottoming out you most likely need a heavier spring. If they are not bottoming out they are doing exactly what they are designed to do. By changing fork oil weight to reduce the amount of dive you are changing the compression and rebound with the viscosity of the oil. So by removing the front end dive you aren't comfortable with your are slowing the rebound. This could induce other handling issues where the rebound cant keep up and loose contact with the pavement. If the forks had rebound and compression adjustments you would be able to tune the front to your liking. There have been a few very good recommendations, Racetech Gold valves is probably the best / least expensive. Full cartridge conversion would be the best.
When I increased viscosity of the fork oil in my sportster (my ultra is stock suspension) forks, it bounced over small bumps, and had much more of a jarring response, as opposed to the compliant nature of stock. Riding 2 up with stock, and using the front brake when stopping on steep downhill was always exciting. The front end dove so much I felt like I was going over the handlebars, and my wife would always slam into me. Not her fault, but the bikes. That was with progressive springs, and preload set properly, for solo riding. Any bike will nose dive in those conditions. The heavier oil helped that considerably. The Screaming Eagle oil was too heavy, in my opinion, for everyday riding, solo. Never got around to trying emulators or any other add on product to see what the difference was.
With my Ultra, I will not tear into the front end anywhere near as often as I did on the sportster. That is a down side of the fairing. Honestly one I had not thought of before buying. Might have gone more towards a softtail or RK if I had really thought that part out. Everything is a tradeoff, for sure, including ride and handling when suspensions are modified.
After all my years of racing cars, I have learned to love stiff suspensions. I cannot stand riding in any vehicle or on any motorcycle that has mushy suspension. I can see where some people would find this incredibly annoying, so there is definitely a personal amount of "feeling" making these kinds of changes. I've only gone for a 5 mile ride since the oil change, but I really enjoyed the firmer feel. Now if all this damn rain would go away so I can really get out and ride!
If they are bottoming out you most likely need a heavier spring. If they are not bottoming out they are doing exactly what they are designed to do. By changing fork oil weight to reduce the amount of dive you are changing the compression and rebound with the viscosity of the oil. So by removing the front end dive you aren't comfortable with, you are slowing the rebound. This could induce other handling issues where the rebound cant keep up and loose contact with the pavement. If the forks had rebound and compression adjustments you would be able to tune the front to your liking.
This exactly...the springs are your suspension and are what carries the weight of the bike and load. The porting or valving, by some definition, as well as viscosity of the oil is what controls the action of the suspension. Using a heavier viscosity is only a ban-aid fix to an under-suspended front end.
As mentioned in another post, regarding the anti-dive units on the old Ventures, they also had the capability of stiffening the suspension itself to the requirements of the changes in the load...Not a "one size fits all" Oil viscosity can still be changed as needed, but don't use it to mask a poor suspension.
Race tech Gold valves at about 150, get the correct spring rate and you are good to go.
I'm like the 5th person that has mentioned racetech so far. If you do not mind drilling a few holes and rebuilding your forks, then it is a no brainer.
On topic but a bit added I went to check out the pro action to see what it’s all about. Definitely looks like a good option. But the rear shocks seemed even more impressive. At a price point of legends, Fox, ohlins Quite honestly they seem to be more bang for the buck.
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