12" Monkey Bagger Bars
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Stage IV
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 4
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From: Central New York
12" Monkey Bagger Bars
Anybody know if I will have any problem installing new Bars on my 2018 Streetglide?
These bars are prewired, but I hope the hydraulic line won't need to be changed?
These bars are prewired, but I hope the hydraulic line won't need to be changed?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Honah Lee
No help with your question. But your post got moved to the correct area .
Be sure to make your next new post over in the new member welcome area..
Just in case..
I welcome you to the HDForum and
hope you enjoy your ride. _______
Be sure to make your next new post over in the new member welcome area..
Just in case..
I welcome you to the HDForum and
hope you enjoy your ride. _______
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Dec 14, 2022 at 07:34 PM.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 3,037
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From: Bunola pa
i had 10s on my bike. cut a couple zip ties holding the hydraulic lines and should be good to go.
Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 668
Likes: 246
From: San Diego, CA.
The general belief with 2014 - 2022 batwing bikes, is with 10” and 12” you most likely only need to snip zip ties and gently reroute slightly under the fairing, along with “maybe” loosening the banjo bolt on both controls, to align the lines more with the bars…..should be it…..
Check out the handlebar install videos galore on YouTube
This is a particularly well done video - there are a number of good ones out there
Check out the handlebar install videos galore on YouTube
This is a particularly well done video - there are a number of good ones out there
Last edited by HM_SanDiego; Dec 15, 2022 at 02:26 PM.
Club Member
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: North Carolina
Here’s a thread that may help you.
I first installed 10 inch, zero issues and then changed to 12 inch. I prefer to keep all wiring, lines and cables right were they were from the factory. With the 12 inch bars the hydraulic clutch line worked, but it caused a wobble at low speeds. It was just too tight around the frame under the fairing. I could have relocated it, but I chose to replace it. The dealer had me the exact matching line the proper length in 3-4 days. It was super easy to replace and bleed and all is perfect. I hope this thread will help you.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/2014-...o-limited.html
I first installed 10 inch, zero issues and then changed to 12 inch. I prefer to keep all wiring, lines and cables right were they were from the factory. With the 12 inch bars the hydraulic clutch line worked, but it caused a wobble at low speeds. It was just too tight around the frame under the fairing. I could have relocated it, but I chose to replace it. The dealer had me the exact matching line the proper length in 3-4 days. It was super easy to replace and bleed and all is perfect. I hope this thread will help you.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/2014-...o-limited.html
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 1,263
Likes: 478
From: Appalachia
Could you elaborate on your low speed wobble, the cause and cure ? I did 12 KST bars on my SGS a while back, using the video you reference in your post
did as they suggest, and added their wire extensions, cut zip ties and re-routed clutch and brake cables (if I remember correctly, its been almost two years). All went well, except I have noticed a wobble at high speeds, on straights and in turns
I chalked it up to firstly needing a new front tire (its starting to get flat spots on one side-nothing extreme but at 16k miles it is time for a new one anyway), and second (this is just a guess) maybe having uneven weight in my saddlebags (more stuff in one side than the other). The wobble on straights seems to be at what I would call very high speeds (like 90 and above) and the wobble in turns occurs at closer to normal but still high speeds. Anyway, just wondering what your problem was and if I need to revisit something about the way I routed my cables.
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Club Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 21,736
Likes: 22,854
From: North Carolina
Could you elaborate on your low speed wobble, the cause and cure ? I did 12” KST bars on my SGS a while back, using the video you reference in your post…did as they suggest, and added their wire extensions, cut zip ties and re-routed clutch and brake cables (if I remember correctly, it’s been almost two years). All went well, except I have noticed a wobble at high speeds, on straights and in turns…I chalked it up to firstly needing a new front tire (it’s starting to get flat spots on one side-nothing extreme but at 16k miles it is time for a new one anyway), and second (this is just a guess) maybe having uneven weight in my saddlebags (more stuff in one side than the other). The wobble on straights seems to be at what I would call very high speeds (like 90 and above) and the wobble in turns occurs at closer to normal but still high speeds. Anyway, just wondering what your problem was and if I need to revisit something about the way I routed my cables.
In my case it was clearly the clutch line. I jacked the bike up with the outer fairing off and moved the front tire full lock each direction. When I went far left (to clutch lever side) and let go of the wheel it snapped back quickly beyond center. The other direction and it just moved back to center as normal. I could see the clutch hydraulic line was getting very tight around the neck of the frame. Yes I could have re-routed it but I changed the line. Got a new mating one from the dealership for $150.00. I did the install myself. I think it was either two or maybe three inches over. The dealer knew exactly what I needed. Problem solved.
I did not experience anything at high speeds, but I did not let go of the bars at those speeds either. Hope this helps.
Last edited by Cosmic Razorback; Dec 27, 2022 at 03:12 PM.
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