Fork Cartridge options
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Northeast, NJ
Another option is to just replace the springs and use the RaceTec Gold Valve Emulators or DK Custom Intimators valving. Be sure to read the cartridge maintenance requirements. All I have read required that the cartridges be rebuilt every 10k-20k miles which means sending them back to the manufacturer. The RaceTec or DK Customs a "rebuild" is a fork oil change and cleaning.
Unless you will not put those miles on that machine before replacing with a new machine.
Unless you will not put those miles on that machine before replacing with a new machine.
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Northeast, NJ
I think with @MotoJockey 's modification, it allows spinning the quarter that has an allen wrench brazed to the quarter, that sits on top of the fork cap. Very cool idea.
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2022
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From: Cypress
I think with @MotoJockey 's modification, it allows spinning the quarter that has an allen wrench brazed to the quarter, that sits on top of the fork cap. Very cool idea.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 769
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From: CLT NC
Yup...already running the Traxxion AR-25 fork kit, which includes springs, modified damper rods with Traxxion's version of Racetech's Gold Valve Emulators sitting at the top of the damper rod, and oil. It's a lot better than stock, but not great. If there was some external adjustability capability of at least preload, that would help a lot. Having to remove and open up the fork for adjustments doesn't work for me.
The problem with many HDs is that there is often no quick way to do what is written above if you do not have quick access to the fork caps. Beleive it or not Bruce Triplett's highly-modified damper rods ended up being as good or better than the Race Tech Cartridge Emulators so that is what we ended up with. Biggest issue we had was if we got them right for square edges we had issues with large vertical drops and management of large erosion barriers. That issue was cured with Bruce's special damper rods (the man is a genius). Next issue was when the fork oil got hot damping was drastically diminished but Bruce now has a fix for that.
Again I highly suggest "Race Tech's Motorcycle Suspension Bible" by Paul Thede https://racetech.com/suspension-bible
Last edited by VortecCPI; Jun 6, 2024 at 09:07 AM.
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Grand HDF Member
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From: Northeast, NJ
You can do a lot with Race Tech Cartridge Emulators if you have quick access to them and you ave time to fiddle with them. We had very good success with our old-school vintage DR forks on our dirt bikes but it took a lot of effort and a lot of trial-and-error work. We used a long telescoping magnet to be able to quickly pull them out, make changes, and get them back in for testing. We had a two-mile closed-loop enduro track for our testing and in the end we got them working very well. We tried many springs, many spring preloads, and many fork oil levels to get them right.
The problem with many HDs is that there is often no quick way to do what is written above if you do not have quick access to the fork caps. Beleive it or not Bruce Triplett's highly-modified damper rods ended up being as good or better than the Race Tech Cartridge Emulators so that is what we ended up with. Biggest issue we had was if we got them right for square edges we had issues with large vertical drops and management of large erosion barriers. That issue was cured with Bruce's special damper rods (the man is a genius). Next issue was when the fork oil got hot damping was drastically diminished but Bruce now has a fix for that.
Again I highly suggest "Race Tech's Motorcycle Suspension Bible" by Paul Thede https://racetech.com/suspension-bible
The problem with many HDs is that there is often no quick way to do what is written above if you do not have quick access to the fork caps. Beleive it or not Bruce Triplett's highly-modified damper rods ended up being as good or better than the Race Tech Cartridge Emulators so that is what we ended up with. Biggest issue we had was if we got them right for square edges we had issues with large vertical drops and management of large erosion barriers. That issue was cured with Bruce's special damper rods (the man is a genius). Next issue was when the fork oil got hot damping was drastically diminished but Bruce now has a fix for that.
Again I highly suggest "Race Tech's Motorcycle Suspension Bible" by Paul Thede https://racetech.com/suspension-bible
I've seen some companies make fork caps with preload adjusters for Dynas. Do they make them for the Touring line? Having adjustable preload would be a decent start.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 769
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From: CLT NC
My previous bike had the Gold Valves, and from everything I've ever read on them, the "potential" is there for a great ride, however, it requires removal of the fork cap and possibly cutting different length spacers and different height / weight fork oils. I just can't get there on a Harley.
I've seen some companies make fork caps with preload adjusters for Dynas. Do they make them for the Touring line? Having adjustable preload would be a decent start.
I've seen some companies make fork caps with preload adjusters for Dynas. Do they make them for the Touring line? Having adjustable preload would be a decent start.
The only thing I have to say about fork spring preload is it is too much is bad practice. According to Bruce Triplett you should have no more than about 5mm of fork spring preload. If you have more than that you need new fork springs of proper rate for your riding weight. We fooled around with fork spring preload with our old vintage DR forks before we met Bruce and he was 100% right. Too much fork spring preload ruins your ride over small stuff. Get the fork spring rate right to achieve proper Free/Static Sag and Race Sag and THEN address any damping issue you may encounter.
OEMs like to use long weak fork springs with a bunch of preload (cheaper, lighter, and easier to manufacture) and this results in a garbage ride over small stuff coupled with excessive brake dive. I am not familiar with HD fork internals so I can not and will not comment in that context but every other DR fork bike I have ever worked on suffers from far too much fork spring preload. Get the fork spring rate and preload right and your ride will be dramatically changed for the better.
Last edited by VortecCPI; Jun 7, 2024 at 01:24 PM.
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Northeast, NJ
Exactly right. With a lot of work they can be made to work great but this can be a daunting task with a big HD touring bike.
The only thing I have to say about fork spring preload is it is too much is bad practice. According to Bruce Triplett you should have no more than about 5mm of fork spring preload. If you have more than that you need new fork springs of proper rate for your riding weight. We fooled around with fork spring preload with our old vintage DR forks before we met Bruce and he was 100% right. Too much fork spring preload ruins your ride over small stuff. Get the fork spring rate right to achieve proper Free/Static Sag and Race Sag and THEN address any damping issue you may encounter.
OEMs like to use long weak fork springs with a bunch of preload (cheaper, lighter, and easier to manufacture) and this results in a garbage ride over small stuff coupled with excessive brake dive. I am not familiar with HD fork internals so I can not and will not comment in that context but every other DR fork bike I have ever worked on suffers from far too much fork spring preload. Get the fork spring rate and preload right and your ride will be dramatically changed for the better.
The only thing I have to say about fork spring preload is it is too much is bad practice. According to Bruce Triplett you should have no more than about 5mm of fork spring preload. If you have more than that you need new fork springs of proper rate for your riding weight. We fooled around with fork spring preload with our old vintage DR forks before we met Bruce and he was 100% right. Too much fork spring preload ruins your ride over small stuff. Get the fork spring rate right to achieve proper Free/Static Sag and Race Sag and THEN address any damping issue you may encounter.
OEMs like to use long weak fork springs with a bunch of preload (cheaper, lighter, and easier to manufacture) and this results in a garbage ride over small stuff coupled with excessive brake dive. I am not familiar with HD fork internals so I can not and will not comment in that context but every other DR fork bike I have ever worked on suffers from far too much fork spring preload. Get the fork spring rate and preload right and your ride will be dramatically changed for the better.
Did some quick research on preload adjustable fork caps for the Touring line earlier. Of the ones I saw, only the Progressive Suspension one was specific to the Touring line. Looking at though, I don't see how it could be adjusted without either dropping the fork leg down a bit to squeeze in an allen wrench, or detach the handlebars from the mount. Both a PITA....ughhhh. Think they're more designed for Kraus type handlebar setups.
Have to say, I took a test ride on a 2024 when they first got to my local dealer, and one thing that the new model rectifies, is easy access to the fork cap.
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I researched this on both my performance bagger and performance LRS builds..
Buy once,, cry once.. Either the BBC 29mm cartridge setup or GP 25mm cartridge.... I personally went with GP 25 cartridges in front with Ohlins in the rear on both builds. Alot depends on what you actually you do with your bike, but as far as performance these are the way to go.
Buy once,, cry once.. Either the BBC 29mm cartridge setup or GP 25mm cartridge.... I personally went with GP 25 cartridges in front with Ohlins in the rear on both builds. Alot depends on what you actually you do with your bike, but as far as performance these are the way to go.
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,686
Likes: 4,294
From: Northeast, NJ
I researched this on both my performance bagger and performance LRS builds..
Buy once,, cry once.. Either the BBC 29mm cartridge setup or GP 25mm cartridge.... I personally went with GP 25 cartridges in front with Ohlins in the rear on both builds. Alot depends on what you actually you do with your bike, but as far as performance these are the way to go.
Buy once,, cry once.. Either the BBC 29mm cartridge setup or GP 25mm cartridge.... I personally went with GP 25 cartridges in front with Ohlins in the rear on both builds. Alot depends on what you actually you do with your bike, but as far as performance these are the way to go.
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