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On sale at Big Sky Harley Davidson Montana, where I ordered mine... $229.46
Thanks for that. One more question. It looks like you have less than one inch between the skirt on the saddle and the rear fender. Are you concerned about the saddle contacting the rear fender under the riders weight+road bumps? Or are the saddle springs so stiff that they dont actually move?
I weigh 207 pounds and it hasn't touched yet. If you look at the seat - it will travel downward, not backward toward the fender if that makes sense. so there is a lot more than 1" of clearance.These are 3" factory springs that came with the kit. I have purchased 4" springs and will let you know how those work and feel. The springs are stiff, but on a good bump they definitely take some of the jolt away.
I weigh 207 pounds and it hasn't touched yet. If you look at the seat - it will travel downward, not backward toward the fender if that makes sense. so there is a lot more than 1" of clearance.These are 3" factory springs that came with the kit. I have purchased 4" springs and will let you know how those work and feel. The springs are stiff, but on a good bump they definitely take some of the jolt away.
Went with an inch longer spring which created more challenges. The new chrome springs have a larger diameter hole at the end where it interfaces with the harley spring mount. Stock plastic bushing is too small. Went to our local Marshalls and got some bronze flange bushings and nylon bushings. The post that the springs ride on is 1/4 dia. The bronze bushings has an I.D. of 1/2. The nylon has an O.D. Of 1/2 and I.D. of 1/4 and fits into the bronze bushing.
I put a leather washer beneath the bronze bushing and the spring post mount. I will drill a 1/16 horizontal hole on the end of the post for a hair pin/cotter pin. Bushing test fit. Nylon bushing was cut flush with the bronze bushing
Leather washer under bronze flange bushing and nylon bushing cut flush.
Last edited by Mantruck1963; Nov 15, 2019 at 08:06 PM.
The seat kit I ordered wasnt specifically made for my bike. I had to file the front mounting hole of the pan ("under seat cover #3") to get it to line up. Also, the back of the "under seat pan" touched the wiring harness to the taillights at the front of the rear fender. I cut two slits to each side where the pan hit the loom and bent the pan section between the cuts upward. Problem solved. The outer wings of this pan will also touch the inner frame arms for the fender mount. I used a towel to protect the metal and used my wide billed welding vise grip to bend the ears down. Problem solved. You can see the spacers ( that came with the seat) under the flat bar I made. You need these so the nut will fit in between bar and seat pan. The look I wanted for my bike. Shouldnt take more than 10 minutes to revert back to stock. Just label and keep the 6 bolts you took off from under the stock seat. And another view Done!
Can you please take a photo with the seat up? Thanks
Various images of seat kit base This is the cut and bend I had to make to clear the fender wiring harness. Just put pan in place and mark where wiring harness will touch. Cut the pan to allow clearance when you be d the metal.
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