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I drilled six 1.125 inch holes along the bottom edge of my Slip Streamer 12 inch touring flip. It helped some but not enough. Gustefson lower deflectors helped a little also. I am beginning to believe that the inherent shape of the little Sport Glide fairing is part of the problem. I think the nearly verticle angle of the shield, on purpose to miss the cables and bars is the problem. The shield could be angled back quite a bit as I have the 6 inch pull back risors making it more aerodynamic. I doubt a company will produce a model for bikes with a different bar setup. I am considering a Memphis Shades Fat shield.
I drilled six 1.125 inch holes along the bottom edge of my Slip Streamer 12 inch touring flip. It helped some but not enough. Gustefson lower deflectors helped a little also. I am beginning to believe that the inherent shape of the little Sport Glide fairing is part of the problem. I think the nearly verticle angle of the shield, on purpose to miss the cables and bars is the problem. The shield could be angled back quite a bit as I have the 6 inch pull back risors making it more aerodynamic. I doubt a company will produce a model for bikes with a different bar setup. I am considering a Memphis Shades Fat shield.
You may be correct in your assumptions. I will try a few things to see if they work, although it may well be futile. I did have a 2011 Dyna Street Bob on which I ended up installing a Memphis Shades batwing fairing. After changing the windshield the fairing worked great. So if all else fails to get this stock fairing arrangement to an acceptable level of comfort, I will probably try the Memphis Shades batwing again. Having ridden my Sport Glide in its current stock configuration with a half helmet from San Diego to Gilbert, AZ., I was almost deaf from the wind noise afterward. I even had ear plugs in from Yuma to the end. My hearing is poor enough without being subjected to that kind of abuse, so one way or the other I will have to find a solution to the wind noise / buffeting problem.
If you're going to drill holes in your windscreens make sure you anneal the whole edges. The material will start to form spider cracks from those holes otherwise.
Love my 19 sport glide. Only issue is that with it trying to be a hybrid it's bars are low for sport bike handling with foward controls like a cruiser. This causes pain in my lower back after about 40min. I also have a sport bike so I can get my hooligan fix elsewhere. Got a new seat, didn't help. Put 4in risers on, didn't help. I just ordered 14in apes as a last resort and well see what happens. Other than that it's smooth, versatile and holds a good amount of storage.
I put Cyclesmith 14" Apes on mine and it 100% fixed this problem for me. Hope it works for you too!
Did you get the lower deflectors? Curious as to how the work and how they look. I'm still using the stock windshield (if that's what you call that 2 inch strip.) I've been perusing the net for a while to figure out what the best wind deflection combo is. I'm 5'11", absolutely love this bike!
I am 5'10" and have the 15" vented Gustafson and the lower deflectors. The lowers make a HUGE difference in knocking out the wind that comes in over the tank. I rode with the screen for over a year before I got the lowers and I can 100% tell you that they make it a lot better.
If you're going to drill holes in your windscreens make sure you anneal the hole edges. The material will start to form spider cracks from those holes otherwise.
Anneal means to heat. Is there a process for doing this that you are familiar with? I suspect when I cut the hole for the vent it would be a good idea to do this.
The heat from drilling the plastic was enough. It nearly melted thru. I drilled mine last July and it is fine. Just did not help enough with the air flow, but it did help some.
Anneal means to heat. Is there a process for doing this that you are familiar with? I suspect when I cut the hole for the vent it would be a good idea to do this.
You could use a soldering iron but it's easy to over melt it. If the bit you're using heats it up enough it will look melted and you're fine. Not all bits will do that. If you go slow with a stepper bit it will probably anneal it while you're drilling.
You could use a soldering iron but it's easy to over melt it. If the bit you're using heats it up enough it will look melted and you're fine. Not all bits will do that. If you go slow with a stepper bit it will probably anneal it while you're drilling.
I was considering just a quick hit with a small butane torch. I have one I use to anneal the ends of nylon rope.
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