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You don’t have to remove battery to jump start:
- connect the red + to the starter power lug, the connect the black - to the ground atvtransmission
(OR)
- just connect to the battery posts
But, once your battery has died, it’s best to figure out why, resolve that issue, then replace the battery.
I don't think there is any easy way to jump the battery in an M8. You don't have to take the battery out but you do have to remove that top battery cover which means disconnecting the negative terminal, removing the cover, reconnecting the negative terminal, cramming the positive jump connector past the monoshock and trying to attach it to the positive terminal. As you said, huge pain in the sack. And if you successfully jump the bike, you have to leave the top battery cover off.
I bought a NOCO GB40 and the battery attachment. I think it's better to just bite the bullet and buy something similar. This way you can go on your trip and take battery jumper with you. If **** happens, then you just have to remove the seat and connect it to the battery attachment.
On the Heritage models it's easy to get a jumper cable on the hot post of the starter motor, as pointed out by TriGeezer above. I don't know about your LR, might be worth adding an extension bar and insulating it until the day you need it. Of course it's easy to find a good ground on any of them.
Over the years I've found that once these small batteries have gotten flattened to where they need a boost, it's time to start shopping for a new one.
Never ever jump start a Harley except in an emergency. And if you think replacing battery is hard, guess how hard it is to replace regulator or stator inside the primary behind the compensator..
Now I did say unless it's a emergency.
Why I say that it obvious you have a battery issue. And you jump it and get it started on the bad battery, it just may screw up the above.
If your bike battery is 'close' to starting, i.e. it's dying of old age or dirty connections you're going to be fine. OTOH if the bike is flat out dead, your battery might be internally shorted, in which case attempting a boost could lead to charging system damage. I have used a small set of 'bike-to-bike' cables to get someone running in order to get home or to a shop on a few occasions. Next step should be to clean up connections and then if it won't take or hold a charge pull it out and get it tested.
Fwiw, on the Heritage the battery removal gets easier after doing it a couple of times. I've installed a couple of heated clothing connections and the second job went much easier than the first one.
If your bike battery is 'close' to starting, i.e. it's dying of old age or dirty connections you're going to be fine. OTOH if the bike is flat out dead, your battery might be internally shorted, in which case attempting a boost could lead to charging system damage. I have used a small set of 'bike-to-bike' cables to get someone running in order to get home or to a shop on a few occasions. Next step should be to clean up connections and then if it won't take or hold a charge pull it out and get it tested.
Fwiw, on the Heritage the battery removal gets easier after doing it a couple of times. I've installed a couple of heated clothing connections and the second job went much easier than the first one.
Removing the battery isn't a big deal. The problem I have is connecting accessories to the battery terminals. It's such a cramped area and I dread having to connect my Gerbing battery harness with its stupid little hooks & NOCO attachment again when the battery needs to be replaced.
It's not that hard to get to the battery for a Boost start on an M8 Softail, remove the side panel connect to the battery negative post and the positive on the starter motor stud, which is under a rubber boot!
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