For anyone considering do their own cam change
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,584
Likes: 520
From: VA
For anyone considering do their own cam change
I just recently changed my cam and oil pump. I used the post by FLshovelhead on this forum as a guide. That is by far the best and most detailed guide anywhere and has lot of pictures. I also watched a couple of YouTube videos. I made plenty of notes. I will add a few comments that you might find helpful.
I bought a cam bearing tool from Amazon that is a Chinese knockoff of the Jim's tool for half the price. It was $119. It worked perfectly.
I used Harley SE pushrods as they are the easiest to use that I know of. Not the cheapest but the easiest. Since pushrod adjustment is one of the worst parts of the job it was worth it.
I used WFOLarry s Hylift Johnson standard lifters set at 3 turns. My valve train is quieter than stock with the Woods 22X cams.
Removing and installing the cam bearing and oil pump are something you really need to take your time with. Make damn sure everything is lined up and the oil pump is seated.
Adjust your pushrods with the timing cover off. Use the cam timing marks to make it simpler to find TDC on each cylinder.
Find a copy of service bulletin M1450 and use that updated procedure to center the oil pump and the sequence for torquing the cam plate. It is different than the service manual.
I turned the rear wheel over by hand several time until oil spurted out different places in gear case. That's all you need to do to prime the oil pump. I then buttoned it up and started it. The oil pressure light went out immediately
I used Fuel Moto exhaust gaskets. They are like the SE gaskets but twice as thick. Easier to work with than the tappered stock gaskets. Getting the head pipe back on was a bit of a challenge.
That's all I got. Hope this helps someone.
I bought a cam bearing tool from Amazon that is a Chinese knockoff of the Jim's tool for half the price. It was $119. It worked perfectly.
I used Harley SE pushrods as they are the easiest to use that I know of. Not the cheapest but the easiest. Since pushrod adjustment is one of the worst parts of the job it was worth it.
I used WFOLarry s Hylift Johnson standard lifters set at 3 turns. My valve train is quieter than stock with the Woods 22X cams.
Removing and installing the cam bearing and oil pump are something you really need to take your time with. Make damn sure everything is lined up and the oil pump is seated.
Adjust your pushrods with the timing cover off. Use the cam timing marks to make it simpler to find TDC on each cylinder.
Find a copy of service bulletin M1450 and use that updated procedure to center the oil pump and the sequence for torquing the cam plate. It is different than the service manual.
I turned the rear wheel over by hand several time until oil spurted out different places in gear case. That's all you need to do to prime the oil pump. I then buttoned it up and started it. The oil pressure light went out immediately
I used Fuel Moto exhaust gaskets. They are like the SE gaskets but twice as thick. Easier to work with than the tappered stock gaskets. Getting the head pipe back on was a bit of a challenge.
That's all I got. Hope this helps someone.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 4,347
Likes: 3,392
From: Seattle
Do you have a link to the guide?
I'd be delighted to see it.
Fuelmoto's tool is 140$ American made hardware.
Im planning on using Feuling's solid pushrods, pulling off the rockerboxes and doing it that way. No adjustments and no jam nut to loosen up randomly. Stiffer rods, less flex, and Feuling says they gain more power out of them than adjustables, grain of salt moment on that note though.
I'm also planning on doing the Feuling rockershafts and ARP rocker tower studs.
Also going with Feuling HP+ Lifters. Moonshine HD said they use Feuling Lifters in their last livestream for stock valve lift builds.
Thank you for this reference. I didn't know the sequence changed.
Do you have to use new bolts for the Cam and drive shaft gears?
I know you have to replace the bolt for the compensator side driveshaft bolt every time.
Thanks for the advice and thread!
I'm looking to do an oil pump and camplate upgrade soon, as well as a stage 2 later on down the road.
I'd be delighted to see it.
I bought a cam bearing tool from Amazon that is a Chinese knockoff of the Jim's tool for half the price. It was $119. It worked perfectly.
I used Harley SE pushrods as they are the easiest to use that I know of. Not the cheapest but the easiest. Since pushrod adjustment is one of the worst parts of the job it was worth it.
I'm also planning on doing the Feuling rockershafts and ARP rocker tower studs.
Also going with Feuling HP+ Lifters. Moonshine HD said they use Feuling Lifters in their last livestream for stock valve lift builds.
Find a copy of service bulletin M1450 and use that updated procedure to center the oil pump and the sequence for torquing the cam plate. It is different than the service manual.
Do you have to use new bolts for the Cam and drive shaft gears?
I know you have to replace the bolt for the compensator side driveshaft bolt every time.
Thanks for the advice and thread!
I'm looking to do an oil pump and camplate upgrade soon, as well as a stage 2 later on down the road.
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,584
Likes: 520
From: VA
Do you have a link to the guide?
I'd be delighted to see it.
Fuelmoto's tool is 140$ American made hardware.
Im planning on using Feuling's solid pushrods, pulling off the rockerboxes and doing it that way. No adjustments and no jam nut to loosen up randomly. Stiffer rods, less flex, and Feuling says they gain more power out of them than adjustables, grain of salt moment on that note though.
I'm also planning on doing the Feuling rockershafts and ARP rocker tower studs.
Also going with Feuling HP+ Lifters. Moonshine HD said they use Feuling Lifters in their last livestream for stock valve lift builds.
Thank you for this reference. I didn't know the sequence changed.
Do you have to use new bolts for the Cam and drive shaft gears?
I know you have to replace the bolt for the compensator side driveshaft bolt every time.
Thanks for the advice and thread!
I'm looking to do an oil pump and camplate upgrade soon, as well as a stage 2 later on down the road.
I'd be delighted to see it.
Fuelmoto's tool is 140$ American made hardware.
Im planning on using Feuling's solid pushrods, pulling off the rockerboxes and doing it that way. No adjustments and no jam nut to loosen up randomly. Stiffer rods, less flex, and Feuling says they gain more power out of them than adjustables, grain of salt moment on that note though.
I'm also planning on doing the Feuling rockershafts and ARP rocker tower studs.
Also going with Feuling HP+ Lifters. Moonshine HD said they use Feuling Lifters in their last livestream for stock valve lift builds.
Thank you for this reference. I didn't know the sequence changed.
Do you have to use new bolts for the Cam and drive shaft gears?
I know you have to replace the bolt for the compensator side driveshaft bolt every time.
Thanks for the advice and thread!
I'm looking to do an oil pump and camplate upgrade soon, as well as a stage 2 later on down the road.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/milwa...-pushrods.html
As for the other points. I bought and used new crank and cam bolts. It's a kit that cost six bucks. If I were buying new solid push rods I would make sure they are longer than stock by about 20 thousandths. How much are the fueling lifters? I have heard they are the same Hylift lifters I got from WFOlarry for $109 but cant confirm that. Cheers
HDF Community Team
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 4,347
Likes: 3,392
From: Seattle
Hope this link works
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/milwa...-pushrods.html
As for the other points. I bought and used new crank and cam bolts. It's a kit that cost six bucks. If I were buying new solid push rods I would make sure they are longer than stock by about 20 thousandths. How much are the fueling lifters? I have heard they are the same Hylift lifters I got from WFOlarry for $109 but cant confirm that. Cheers
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/milwa...-pushrods.html
As for the other points. I bought and used new crank and cam bolts. It's a kit that cost six bucks. If I were buying new solid push rods I would make sure they are longer than stock by about 20 thousandths. How much are the fueling lifters? I have heard they are the same Hylift lifters I got from WFOlarry for $109 but cant confirm that. Cheers
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,584
Likes: 520
From: VA
I forgot to mention. If you buy the new bolt kit it comes with a dry red loctite patch on the bolts. You have to look close to see it. I wouldn't add anymore red loctite to it.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,642
Likes: 1,985
From: Cleveland Zoo
I just recently changed my cam and oil pump. I used the post by FLshovelhead on this forum as a guide. That is by far the best and most detailed guide anywhere and has lot of pictures. I also watched a couple of YouTube videos. I made plenty of notes. I will add a few comments that you might find helpful.
I bought a cam bearing tool from Amazon that is a Chinese knockoff of the Jim's tool for half the price. It was $119. It worked perfectly.
I used Harley SE pushrods as they are the easiest to use that I know of. Not the cheapest but the easiest. Since pushrod adjustment is one of the worst parts of the job it was worth it.
I used WFOLarry s Hylift Johnson standard lifters set at 3 turns. My valve train is quieter than stock with the Woods 22X cams.
Removing and installing the cam bearing and oil pump are something you really need to take your time with. Make damn sure everything is lined up and the oil pump is seated.
Adjust your pushrods with the timing cover off. Use the cam timing marks to make it simpler to find TDC on each cylinder.
Find a copy of service bulletin M1450 and use that updated procedure to center the oil pump and the sequence for torquing the cam plate. It is different than the service manual.
I turned the rear wheel over by hand several time until oil spurted out different places in gear case. That's all you need to do to prime the oil pump. I then buttoned it up and started it. The oil pressure light went out immediately
I used Fuel Moto exhaust gaskets. They are like the SE gaskets but twice as thick. Easier to work with than the tappered stock gaskets. Getting the head pipe back on was a bit of a challenge.
That's all I got. Hope this helps someone.
I bought a cam bearing tool from Amazon that is a Chinese knockoff of the Jim's tool for half the price. It was $119. It worked perfectly.
I used Harley SE pushrods as they are the easiest to use that I know of. Not the cheapest but the easiest. Since pushrod adjustment is one of the worst parts of the job it was worth it.
I used WFOLarry s Hylift Johnson standard lifters set at 3 turns. My valve train is quieter than stock with the Woods 22X cams.
Removing and installing the cam bearing and oil pump are something you really need to take your time with. Make damn sure everything is lined up and the oil pump is seated.
Adjust your pushrods with the timing cover off. Use the cam timing marks to make it simpler to find TDC on each cylinder.
Find a copy of service bulletin M1450 and use that updated procedure to center the oil pump and the sequence for torquing the cam plate. It is different than the service manual.
I turned the rear wheel over by hand several time until oil spurted out different places in gear case. That's all you need to do to prime the oil pump. I then buttoned it up and started it. The oil pressure light went out immediately
I used Fuel Moto exhaust gaskets. They are like the SE gaskets but twice as thick. Easier to work with than the tappered stock gaskets. Getting the head pipe back on was a bit of a challenge.
That's all I got. Hope this helps someone.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 4,347
Likes: 3,392
From: Seattle
I was wondering if there's a way to buy just the set of 4 pushrods.
Or if there was some difference in the tubes that makes you need to the tube pieces as well.
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Banned
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From: Nunya.
There is a gasket/seals kit so you can just flip the lids and use the stock solids , instead of cutting the stock lifters .It takes a tech about four hours to go this way but they do usually charge more so a regular Joe might get it done in a day or so. It is messy though.
The stock covers will be a **** fight if you use adjustables. SE adjustables and SE covers work well together, some other brands do not play well together.
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 4,347
Likes: 3,392
From: Seattle
Weren't you going to use solids ?
There is a gasket/seals kit so you can just flip the lids and use the stock solids , instead of cutting the stock lifters .It takes a tech about four hours to go this way but they do usually charge more so a regular Joe might get it done in a day or so. It is messy though.
The stock covers will be a **** fight if you use adjustables. SE adjustables and SE covers work well together, some other brands do not play well together.
There is a gasket/seals kit so you can just flip the lids and use the stock solids , instead of cutting the stock lifters .It takes a tech about four hours to go this way but they do usually charge more so a regular Joe might get it done in a day or so. It is messy though.
The stock covers will be a **** fight if you use adjustables. SE adjustables and SE covers work well together, some other brands do not play well together.
My bike still has the 2018 **** pump though. I'm wanting to replace it ASAP, but am not interested in installing a cam and all that other stuff at the same time.
An issue popped up researching installing the new pump system where if you put out the pump, the lifters will expand out the full travel making the cam unable to clear the edge.
The way the guy solved this issue was simply by pulling his adjustable pushrods out and then putting the camplate in.
I'm trying to figure out an easier way to do this and retain the stock rods until later.
I'm trying to decided if I should say **** it and get a set of adjustables and bolt cutters instead of taking the risk of not being able to get the camplate back in and then having to take more **** apart. FuelMoto makes a set of adjustables.