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In order to be effective, the front wheel chock must be fairly snug, otherwise it allows the bike to tilt just a bit which stresses the hell out of the front wheel and fork assembly, becuase they are then trying to support the entire bike from tipping. But as soon as your lift the bike out of the front wheel chock, the fork assembly will automatically swing either left or right because of the fork geometry on any bike. Then, when trying to LOWER the bike, you have to fight the bike to get the wheel back into the chock while simultaneously trying to lower the bike into it. That's not good given the location of the lowering mechanisms on lifts.
I know a table lift is not in your future but the issues you point out don't exist; probably because you have never used a table lift set up properly. Ride the bike into the chock and, if set up properly, the bike will stand on it's own while tie downs are attached and pulled tight. When the lift is lowered, remove the tie downs, sit on the bike and with a bit of leg strength and a pull back on the bars, back the bike out of the wheel chock, off the lift and back on to the jiffy stand. Easy, peasy and have done it hundreds of times with baggers, softails and dynas.
@BlueridgeXL , I'm surprised to see the oem dock still on there!
Minor but useful tip I learned about those tiedown points, run the nut all the way up on the threads, use a nylock nut on the underside, just fully engaged.
Then the tiedown drops down low unless you've got a tiedown hooked into it.
@JimGnitecki , I've a 27" inseam, and can reach my toes down to the raised lip on the deck. Up on the lift isn't really the spooky step, it's going up the ramp with the front wheel, and the first few feet of the deck. Then your feet are high, and you don't want to stop. Some folk use boards or decking along that length where their feet are. But, as long as you go up the ramp with alacrity, you'll be ok without them. You can also walk the bike up while standing beside it.
I've got a chance to work with an indie. Always pushes bike up.
Getting it strapped down alone, is one factor that has made me hesitant.
Ive had my HF lift going on 13yrs now. Changed the wheel chock a couple times to ones I like more. Added some oil to the jack once. Had about 300 bikes up and down on it, left some bikes on it for over a year at a time. Hundreds of the wifes honey do projects done on it. Had the turkey fryer on it every year since I bought it, used it as a table, a bar, a dance floor, and for $400 its the best purchase Ive made.
He will not reply to posts that do not scratch him behind his ears. He is not open to the reality of his situation. He is having fun by having a dilemma. He is retired and has nothing else to do with his time but naval gaze.
My little motorcycle lift failed yesterday on the way down to go work on my bike. I thought I was going to have to buy a new one, but instead I discovered that it wasnt really broken, just the securing pin that holds the collet collar in place had come loose. Picked up all the ball bearings and reassembled it.
Still works and let me do my rear wheel alignment.
Responding to personal attacks is a waste of time and also just raises the temperature. Some forum members are trying to help, while others simply get mad if someone has a different opinion or solution and throw personal insults trying to provoke a foolish response or just to make them feel more manly. I wonder why those that think the discussion is not to their taste bother to keep coming back to it. They COULD simply ignore it.
[QUOTE=LoneRiderFLH;21750272]Why not just cut out your concrete so a lift can be placed at any height you want? Pretty darn simple way to take care of height problem, no? A dry saw and a bag of Quick Crete and it’s an easy 1-2 hour project. You’d have to invent a ramp to drive over jack
Seems like 1” of clearance is all you need? I’d consider an outside concrete pad with a 1” pit for jack.
Why not just cut out your concrete so a lift can be placed at any height you want? Pretty darn simple way to take care of height problem, no? A dry saw and a bag of Quick Crete and it’s an easy 1-2 hour project. You’d have to invent a ramp to drive over jack
Seems like 1” of clearance is all you need? I’d consider an outside concrete pad with a 1” pit for jack.
A reasonable suggestion, but:
When you live in a city known both for 325 days per year of hot 3000 foot elevation sun AND for being the 2nd windiest city in Canada, you don't really want to work outdoors.
And the current daily highs outdoors are also running in the 36 to 38C range, which is 97 to 100F. The garage, despite not being air conditioned like the home, nevertheless stays cool because it is UNDER the home's 2nd floor and so never gets too hot.
Also, if a bike needs to stay on a lift overnight because you are replacing parts, it's a great theft target and also an advertisement for thieves telling them you normally have a bike in the garage.
Lots of reasons to avoid outside work.
Jim G
Last edited by JimGnitecki; Jul 21, 2024 at 01:39 PM.
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