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@JimGnitecki , I know you believe your Breakout is some remarkably different bike, but it really isn't. It's only 2 inches longer wheelbase than my Heritage. It's only 2/10ths of an inch lower than the Heritage, and I don't know if that's with the Heritage on it's lowest setting, or not. It's just not that different a bike. Even to my old Road King, It's only 3 inches longer wheelbase, and has about an inch more ground clearance than my RK had. Slipping jacks under that RK was easy, as I've previously described to you. As was running it up onto the lift table. Just walk it or ride it up.
If you ever bottom out going up something, just stop and back it down. Falling over is not a requirement. Nor does trigonometry need to be used before trying it.
Walking a bike up is not pushing a bike up. You can push if you want, but I don't like to push a heavy bike uphill. I walk it, letting the engine do the work, slipping the clutch. It's just not hard to do.
@JimGnitecki , I know you believe your Breakout is some remarkably different bike, but it really isn't. It's only 2 inches longer wheelbase than my Heritage. It's only 2/10ths of an inch lower than the Heritage, and I don't know if that's with the Heritage on it's lowest setting, or not. It's just not that different a bike. Even to my old Road King, It's only 3 inches longer wheelbase, and has about an inch more ground clearance than my RK had. Slipping jacks under that RK was easy, as I've previously described to you. As was running it up onto the lift table. Just walk it or ride it up.
If you ever bottom out going up something, just stop and back it down. Falling over is not a requirement. Nor does trigonometry need to be used before trying it.
Walking a bike up is not pushing a bike up. You can push if you want, but I don't like to push a heavy bike uphill. I walk it, letting the engine do the work, slipping the clutch. It's just not hard to do.
I know it can be done with the right prep and planning, but I am simply not comfortable trying it, Foxtrapper. The Breakout is probably the "lightest" Softail, but it's still 683 lb just looking for an opportunity to fall over, and if that happens, the potential for both injuries and repair costs is high. I like to minimize the odds of such things. I of course do realize that using ANY lift can be a risk, but I have to absorb SOME risk, because maintaining the bike without one is physically hurting me. A couple of weeks after my last bike wash session, I am still recovering. I'm looking to minimize that so I can continue to ride.
You know, you're right. 213 posts is way more than enough. I know what I need to do: I need to get a Big Blue lift to be satisfied, and that might mean a used one at a price my wife will not veto, or a new one if she eventually comes around.
No point in continuing this thread, prolonging the agony for some observers, who despite their disdain for the thread ( and me) continue to follow the thread for some reason.
Stop.
I'll continue my search for a used Big Blue in silence. If any of you see an ad for one, shoot me a PM.
I have a Sears yellow one a gift in 2007. It lifts my 1996 FB, has lifted 6 new touring bikes. Mine and a friends 750 HD's , 2 gun vaults, several ATV's
couple trailers, and lawn mowers. This is 2024 and it still ready when ever need.
It has sat out in the rain a few times well more than a few, been snowed on. Tossed in back of a truck hauled down the road to rescue someone else's bike. never once failed to go up or down as it should.
Lifting a bike is not rocket science.
Last edited by smitty901; Jul 21, 2024 at 02:54 PM.
@BlueridgeXL , I'm surprised to see the oem dock still on there!
Minor but useful tip I learned about those tiedown points, run the nut all the way up on the threads, use a nylock nut on the underside, just fully engaged.
Then the tiedown drops down low unless you've got a tiedown hooked into it.
@JimGnitecki , I've a 27" inseam, and can reach my toes down to the raised lip on the deck. Up on the lift isn't really the spooky step, it's going up the ramp with the front wheel, and the first few feet of the deck. Then your feet are high, and you don't want to stop. Some folk use boards or decking along that length where their feet are. But, as long as you go up the ramp with alacrity, you'll be ok without them. You can also walk the bike up while standing beside it.
The stock ramp is a bad joke. I started to look at my tri-fold aluminum quad ramp to use for the lift table ramp, then had a eureka moment. Use the race ramps ratchet strapped together on a 4x4. Works like a top. Race ramps are crazy expensive now, not too bad 8 years ago.
I had a PitBull lift and it was the perfect lift Except.....the base rails were too long and there was not enough clearance between the wheels and the jack's frame. When you'd lift your bike (CVO Road Glide) the weight would "bow" the bottom frame rail causing them to (frame rails) drag on the floor making it impossible to move the lift with the bike on it!!!. So it went on Market Place and gone.
However, I found a J & S jack ~~~ problem solved. By far the best floor jack I've ever had for lifting my bikes!!. Stability A+, Mobility A+. Reliability A+, and Cost C-......but you're getting what you paid for, and it's still less than 1/2 the cost of the one from England. J & S is the jack that offers the rotating top mount so that you can just turn your bike around like it's on a swivel. Go to their web site and check them out...you won't regret it!
Last edited by ges32748; Dec 19, 2024 at 06:03 PM.
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