I'm entertaining the idea, was wondering if its been done, i wouldnt mind my front wheel being further away from me just slightly

 

I know for standard forks there's fork cap extensions. I dont know if such a thing exists for inverted HD Forks.

 

Thank you . i guess my only route then is to raise the front with an extension.

 

theres companies out there that will make custom trees for you. that have the rake in the triple trees themselves.
adding rake is differnt than just raising the front. raise it enough your whole bike will be angled back , fuel pickup/seating etc everything will be affected.
geezerengeneering.com ? makes this sort of thing i believe.


or you can be a man and cut the neck and reweld it.......

 

There are essentially three ways to take a bike -
1- cut/weld the neck at whatever angle you want
2- raked trees
2- raked bearing cups

Lengthening the forks, whether by extended tubes or "slugs" (and slugs were often bad ju-ju in the old days) will effectively add rake, but only a small amount and doesn't sound like what you're trying to do.

Remember that increasing the rake will slow down the handling due to the increase in trail. Cutting/welding the neck for increased rake coupled with a few degrees in raked trees will bring the trail back closer to stock. Another "remember" is that adding too much rake via trees without raking the neck can decrease trail to a measurement that can result in unstable high speed handling.

So, if you're going for maybe 3-5 degrees extra, and don't want to whale on the frame, a combination of raked cups and raked trees, plus a couple few inches extra in fork length to keep you level, will be the easiest way to go.

 

raked triple trees..........up to 6 degrees at Hog Halterz.....$600

 

Raked tree done right is best way. Just longer tubes or slugs raises it. Looks like a cheap attempt.

 

are the larger front wheels necessary when increasing rake?

edit: nvm. i did the geometry in my head. if i kept the same front wheel my whole bike would be pitching forward. a bigger front wheel has its own pros and cons...
edit 2: the more i read about rake and trail the less i understand.

 

Before you decide to change the rake or tire size, you should read:
1. Motorcycle Dynamics by Cossalter
2. Motorcycle Engineering by Irving
3. Motorcycle Design by Lot and Sadauckas
There is more to the dynamics of the construction of each model of motorcycle than one might suppose.

 

To keep the same front end height, you'll need longer forks. There are a few "calculators" you can look at, plugging in various rakes, fork lengths, offsets, wheel/tire sizes. For practical purposes, it isn't necessary to get perfectly exact numbers and angles.

Here is one of the better sites, and there are good explanations of everything involved - https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/rakeandtrail.html

Very simple and easy to see/understand diagram - http://www.thompsonchoppers.com/rake...il-calculator/

Some basic caveats/thoughts -
1. Installing raked bearing cups is the same as raking the frame.
2. Raked trees reduce trail; the more rake in the trees, the less trail. It is possible to get too little or even negative trail with raked trees alone. While I don't know if raked trees were designed to correct trail figures, that is what they were usually used for.
3. HD even had adjustable trees at one time to achieve desired trail figures for both solo riding and sidecar use.
4. Slugs (quality ones) are relatively safe as long as the joint is between the trees and the trees effectively clamp the fork tubes. Never use slugs that join the fork tubes below the bottom tree. Believe it or not, these were available in the 60s - 70s.
5. Don't forget to account for the neck-to-fork tube offset as that directly affects the trail.

I started riding on a 1972 XLCH with what was called a 7/8" rake (bottom of neck was pulled 7/8" forward) which was probably about a 45 degree rake, with 15" over fork tubes, and the stock 19" front wheel. Bike rode like a locomotive on rails because of the greatly increased trail - I believe I could start out in Sunnyvale, CA where I bought the bike, point it back towards Idaho Falls, take a nap, and wake up somewhere in Nevada before having to adjust, LOL. Later I got a Corbin Gentry rigid frame with a 35 degree rake and probably about 4" up in the down tubes. I first ran a 10" over Fury girder and 21" front wheel. Bike handled a lot quicker, but still rode straight quite well. I had a wreck and trashed the girder and swapped in my Dad's 8" over tubes and stock 19" wheel from his 1973 Sportster. That combo was essentially the same length as the girder., but it handled a little heavier, though it was also a bit smoother. Now, none of these set-ups were done with a calculator. The frame was set up with the rear wheel on, and a broomstick was shoved into the neck and adjusted so the bottom was at the axle of the front wheel. The broomstick length was the starting point for fork length. Because this crude method didn't account for the neck-to-tree offset, we'd guess and add an inch or so to the tube length. It was "close enough for government work." So much for those good ol' days!