Handlebar wiring help????
I used dog tag chain tied to a bootlace. I wrap piece of electrical tape around the wires and tie the end of the bootlace to the tape. Then I slide the mesh wire sheath up past the wires and tape it tight enough that the sheath won't pull back over the wires. The chain will fall through the bars pretty easy. Once it's through you can pull on the boot lace. Some people use lube but I didn't need to. Hope this helped.
i have similar bars. i used a string. i tied a nut to one end for weight, inserted the nut on the bar end hole and turned the bars till it came out the bottom. then with the mesh still attatched to the wires i straggered the pins and then using electrical tape i wrapped the string to the mesh and wires for about 6-8". make sure you stagger the pins. i will be hard to make the sharp turns without staggering the pins. Just take your time. i bent a few pins back pulling the wires through on the 1st time. The second time went much smoother since i staggered the pins.
Last edited by pontiac69; Mar 29, 2012 at 07:34 AM.
I made a video back when I did it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vkoq6kLlqw
i have similar bars. i used a string. i tied a nut to one end for weight, inserted the nut on the bar end hole and turned the bars till it came out the bottom. then with the mesh still attatched to the wires i straggered the pins and then using electrical tape i wrapped the string to the mess and wires for about 6-8". make sure you stagger the pins. i will be hard to make the sharp turns without staggering the pins. Just take your time. i bent a few pins back pulling the wires through on the 1st time. The second time went much smoother since i staggered the pins.
That is the quickest and easiest way to go.
Shop vac is great for pvc conduit, but more work that necessary for bars.
I can't remember if I said to stagger the wires in my video but YES that is key. You must do that. I have gotten to where I purposely used masking tape instead of electrical tape though since electrical tape (even when on for a short time) leaves a messy residue. Masking tape leaves none but holds good.
Some bars are more of a problem than others just depends on the internal structure of the weld. If you run into a problem, back off and try again, you don't want to scrap the insulation off or you've got a mess then. Anyhow happy wire pulling.
Plumbers chain and I used baby powder to coat the sheath, since mine were covered in the plastic. Tape the chain to about 6 - 8" of the sheathing and go slow. About a two beer job.
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Okmso where do I start with the wires? Do I need special tools to pull the plugs off? I don't want to cause more damage then I have to.
Thanks a lot for the help fellas
Does anyone know of a video of the whole job?
Thanks a lot for the help fellas
Does anyone know of a video of the whole job?
The signal 3 wire AMP and the larger Molex connectors have a tab on them to pull the male and female apart. (some models have Deutsch instead of Molex).
After you get them apart some Molex's have two side slots to pry out the locking plate with a small flat screwdriver. Others have two center located small square holes. I grab those kind with needle nose pliers and pull outward. It will snap up bout a 1/4" to 3/8"
BEFORE removing the wires and socket pins WRITE DOWN the wire colors and pin locations on some paper and don't loose it.
To remove the AMP pins I've had better luck with a Bobby pin. I filed it flat a bit on the end. I bend it in a 90* angle so I can grip it and twist it when I feel it grab the tab inside the connector. On the AMPs push the Bobby pin into the inside row of holes (not the outside those are the socket holes). It should go in bout a 1/4" of more and keep it snug towards the pin side until you feel it hit the tab. Then twist the bobby pin. It takes few tries. Mudd has an excellent video on Youtube on these.
The Molex pins I have better luck with them using a heavy paper clip bent the same way. Other wise the procedure is very similar.
After you get them apart some Molex's have two side slots to pry out the locking plate with a small flat screwdriver. Others have two center located small square holes. I grab those kind with needle nose pliers and pull outward. It will snap up bout a 1/4" to 3/8"
BEFORE removing the wires and socket pins WRITE DOWN the wire colors and pin locations on some paper and don't loose it.
To remove the AMP pins I've had better luck with a Bobby pin. I filed it flat a bit on the end. I bend it in a 90* angle so I can grip it and twist it when I feel it grab the tab inside the connector. On the AMPs push the Bobby pin into the inside row of holes (not the outside those are the socket holes). It should go in bout a 1/4" of more and keep it snug towards the pin side until you feel it hit the tab. Then twist the bobby pin. It takes few tries. Mudd has an excellent video on Youtube on these.
The Molex pins I have better luck with them using a heavy paper clip bent the same way. Other wise the procedure is very similar.


