Calling all FatBoy Lo Owners
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,048
Likes: 3
From: Central Jersey
Sorry up front for...uh... bringing back an old question: do I have to disassemble and empty the slider tube's guts so that it can be removed from the slider? My intention is to powder coat the lower slider housing only, and since the bike has less than 1000 mi on it, I don't think there is a need for me to peek inside the slider tube or its contents. I need your expert advice badly. Thanks a bunch.
1) drain them
2) remove them from the bike (duh)
3), turn the up-side-down and remove the allen-bolt from the bottom (this bolt holds the fork lowers to the inner spring housings)
4) now hold them right ways up, and look down in to the top of the lowers and you'll see a little clip, remove that with a small flathead screwdriver (it pops right out)
5) get a buddy, or if you're full of M-A-N do it yourself, put a towel on the ground, and stand the fork up on that towel, get your buddy to grab the fork lower and hold it against the towel (with the fork standing up), and you grab the stainless steel tube and push downwards, then SLAM it upwards and that rubber seal will pop loose..
that's all there is to it.
clean them up and ship them out.. but replace the rubber seal.. they're about $10 each from HD, and you're not supposed to reuse them
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 130
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
I'm not entirely sure I understand what you mean by disassembling the guts.. but going with you wanting to powdercoat the fork lowers, you have to remove the spring housings and everything from the fork lowers, but you don't have to open up or remove the springs FROM their housings (which are the stainless steel inner tubes).. disassembling the fork lowers is easy..
1) drain them
2) remove them from the bike (duh)
3), turn the up-side-down and remove the allen-bolt from the bottom (this bolt holds the fork lowers to the inner spring housings)
4) now hold them right ways up, and look down in to the top of the lowers and you'll see a little clip, remove that with a small flathead screwdriver (it pops right out)
5) get a buddy, or if you're full of M-A-N do it yourself, put a towel on the ground, and stand the fork up on that towel, get your buddy to grab the fork lower and hold it against the towel (with the fork standing up), and you grab the stainless steel tube and push downwards, then SLAM it upwards and that rubber seal will pop loose..
that's all there is to it.
clean them up and ship them out.. but replace the rubber seal.. they're about $10 each from HD, and you're not supposed to reuse them
1) drain them
2) remove them from the bike (duh)
3), turn the up-side-down and remove the allen-bolt from the bottom (this bolt holds the fork lowers to the inner spring housings)
4) now hold them right ways up, and look down in to the top of the lowers and you'll see a little clip, remove that with a small flathead screwdriver (it pops right out)
5) get a buddy, or if you're full of M-A-N do it yourself, put a towel on the ground, and stand the fork up on that towel, get your buddy to grab the fork lower and hold it against the towel (with the fork standing up), and you grab the stainless steel tube and push downwards, then SLAM it upwards and that rubber seal will pop loose..
that's all there is to it.
clean them up and ship them out.. but replace the rubber seal.. they're about $10 each from HD, and you're not supposed to reuse them
. One more, can you refill the fork lowers then drop in the sliders, or the other way around first? Thank you.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,048
Likes: 3
From: Central Jersey
Assemble everything, then fill.. it's 13.4 ounces according to the service manual. You're actually pouring the oil in to the spring housings, which then fills the lowers through a hole near the damper tubes at the bottom.. so needless to say, if you try to fill the spring housings first, you're just going to pour it straight out from the bottom..assemble everything first
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 130
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
Assemble everything, then fill.. it's 13.4 ounces according to the service manual. You're actually pouring the oil in to the spring housings, which then fills the lowers through a hole near the damper tubes at the bottom.. so needless to say, if you try to fill the spring housings first, you're just going to pour it straight out from the bottom..assemble everything first
It was a dumbest thing to say ever on my part
. Thanks for clarifying the matter, Sgt. Now, back out to the garage...
Tourer
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
From: England, Feltwell area
So I figured out that you can install the D2MOTO integrated turn/tail light on a 11-12 model with the canbus wiring! Just got done figuring it out. you just need to solder the grounds together and reuse the factory clips (pull the original pin connectors out and slip in the D2 ones into the approiate connections) and walla! Will post a vid of it hooked up if I can figure out how to do that! Now I just need to remove the stock rear turn lamps to have a clean rear fender.
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Muscle Shoals, AL
Sorry about posting this again but I don't want to screw up anything.
I removed the rear brake pedal lever and there is a bushing in it. Anyone know how to get that bushing out?
I also have the Shift rod off and cannot get the two screws (with ball attached) out of both ends of the rod. Any help with these problems would be appreciated.
Definitely not a mechanic but getting better.
Thanks in advance.
Jim,
I just did my forks myself and did not need any help separating the upper from lowers. I just did a few easy slides and they separated pretty easy.
Now that I know how to do this I will never take it to the dealer for any front end work. To put the seals back on I was going to use the PVC trick but found the tool HD 34634 (I think) on Ebay for cheap.
I removed the rear brake pedal lever and there is a bushing in it. Anyone know how to get that bushing out?
I also have the Shift rod off and cannot get the two screws (with ball attached) out of both ends of the rod. Any help with these problems would be appreciated.
Definitely not a mechanic but getting better.
Thanks in advance.
Jim,
I just did my forks myself and did not need any help separating the upper from lowers. I just did a few easy slides and they separated pretty easy.
Now that I know how to do this I will never take it to the dealer for any front end work. To put the seals back on I was going to use the PVC trick but found the tool HD 34634 (I think) on Ebay for cheap.
Tourer
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
From: England, Feltwell area
Stage I
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: washington
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Road Master
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,248
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville, NC
Father73, I'm not sure we can allow you to hang out here. Your Fatboy is a little too shiny. 
Just kidding. Welcome to the dark side. Once you lower it we'll see what we can do to knock some of the shine off.
Just kidding. Welcome to the dark side. Once you lower it we'll see what we can do to knock some of the shine off.
Tourer
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
From: England, Feltwell area
[quote=Lone wolf lo 10;9600686]New speedo and a little dress up for the tank
Lone Wolf Lo 10,
What brackets are those for your front turn signals?
I've been looking to move mine and not finding to many options.
Lone Wolf Lo 10,
What brackets are those for your front turn signals?
I've been looking to move mine and not finding to many options.