How many screws are you able to get in?

 

Two out of the three, the top and the bottom.

 

looking at the hole pattern . . . It almost looks like you need to rotate 180 where the cone is facing inboard.

 

That doubles the clearance problem. Then the slope of the flare hits the two other posts. The other option I'm looking at is marking where the posts hit and throwing the rings on the drill press and making an opening just large enough for the posts to fit in. my concerns there are water and integrity of the rings.

 

Lol. . . The road glide boys can jump in anytime!

 

Based on your Roadie buddy saying the flare pointed outboard it looks like the solution is to sand down that lower post by about 3/16" and then bore that hole in the ring slightly to the center. I have the left side one (looking at the bike from the front) installed and it seems to be pretty solid with only a slight gap between the ring and the plate at the post. I could sand it down some more but I don't want to risk stripping those holes by running the screws in and out too many more times. If that slight gap won't effect speaker performance I can live with it as is being as stable as it appears to be.

 

For RG's I use the Hawg Wired. They fit up easy. I don't use no name stuff. I'd rather spend an extra $20 and know that it works. On my RG I have the HW.

Might wanna check the Road Glide forum for more specific info from RG guys.

 

These are from Eastern Performance Cycle, not exactly a no name or fly by night company and I purchased them based on the recommendation from Gannicus whose opinion is pretty widely respected here. That being said, they did list my year and model as a bike that they fit but they certainly aren't exactly what I'd call a glove fit.

 

Exactly why I only buy arc audio rings. Too many fitment issues even with bstwings.

If you go to cycle sounds website and get the installation instructions, it tells you to cut the post off.

 

I hear you NUTZ. . . Arc audio it is. Just trying to save guys a little money.