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NO different circuitry. Same with the diamond m2v2. All share a similar chassis with different internals.
How do you know this and when you say different internals what specifically do yo mean by that? I see that term tossed around a lot but never any details behind it. I'm curious to know which specific components change "what" of the amp as it relates to sound quality, volume, power output, etc?
I frequent quite a few forums both car audio and HD audio forums and I always find it interesting why the same brands get repeated over and over depending which forum it is, and the differences there are in popular car audio and bike audio brands. You never hear mentioned here JL Audio amps here, yet they are one of the standard amps in the car world. In large part Hertz is extremely popular in the "bagger" community but no one in car circles runs SPL's, in fact a more popular brand is HAT. Now mention to folks outside of us that BT speakers are made by HAT and they don't have a clue what that means. I wonder how some legit HAT Legatia's would sound on a bike.
I post this because in each bike forum I visit there is a handful of brands repeated, but go to a car forum and many of them aren't even mentioned. Now granted a car is not a bike but have we really limited ourselves to just a few brands. What about other popular heavy hitter brands like Image Dynamics, Dynaudio, Audison, MMats, Zed or niche brands like Helix, Faital, Stereo Integrity.
Seems like there's soooooooo much out there we're missing out on.
Sooo many speakers...sooo little money...lol! Haze last time I was talking with Biill at BT I mentioned I was thinking about the
Clarus Components and he said that the 7.1 Pro's were close to the Legita's with something about a 2 magnet push, pull set up, have you heard that!
How do you know this and when you say different internals what specifically do yo mean by that? I see that term tossed around a lot but never any details behind it. I'm curious to know which specific components change "what" of the amp as it relates to sound quality, volume, power output, etc?
Reading before purchase and contacting ID tech. When first prototyped and introduced It has been stated by a ID tech on DIY Mobile Audio Forum they went through about 15 revisions to the prototype. They did state they didn't make it from the ground up but kept making revisions to make it to their liking.
Only one of these amps I have ever seen an amp guts shot of. This is the prototype shot. I am sure they may have went with a different fets from the prototype, modifications to the board and maybe upgraded some other components?
Link to the DIY info page discussing the amp. Stated to bench at 620rms bridged at 4ohm. Not saying it does. It has some power I will say that. My last high's amp I ran before ditching car audio was a Eclipse 32440. That was a clean sounding powerhouse. Not as clean as the eclipse but they didn't underrate the mq150.2 for sure. Read post 975-985-988 http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...4-subs-40.html
Here is another amp that I almost got. I didn't know if it would fit well so I went a different route. The rms, stn,thd, look pretty good for class d. I ignore the peak rating they give. I never look at any amps peak rating ever anyway. d1500.2 or the d1500.4
Maybe good and maybe not?
yeah those might be too big for the fairing but good find!
My real curiosity is what's different between these amps, and their 15 different iterations of it. I'm not smart enough on all the components of an amplifier and their inner workings. I know enough not to be bullshitted, so my curiosity really drives me to want to know -- ok you changed this and I the customer got what? Is it a more reliable amp? or a better sounding amp? Both. The PPI 900.4 is a great example of an amp that's been cloned over and over and after hearing various versions of it, and seeing the different amp guts -- honestly it's splitting hairs on any noticeable sound differences. In this case the B52 lets say is 150.00 the ID is 250.00 and the Diamond Audio is 330.00 (those are rough numbers), do they each really sound 100.00 better than each other. If yes -- what makes that difference?? I'd love to be that smart with amps guts.
I'm no engineer. My best friend is an electronics tech and we have fixed a few doa amps together. My theory is they all use a similar build but use a different part number for the switching mosfet, changed the coils some, changed the board layout slightly, upgraded the quality of the caps,diodes,etc. I would think each company had a build done to their spec, then refined, just like 1 company makes batteries for 20 places, but each to their spec. There difference I am sure is very subtle. Unless all 3 were present and a Scope, or spectrum analyzer was to monitor all 3 with exact same parameters the difference would be hard to tell. That's why I picked door number 2. Plus Cerwin Vega never used to be in the amp Business back when the strokers first hit the market so I never new of them to be an amp builder in my audio time that I can remember. Mostly then Orion and US amps had the best. I miss my xtr2250 beast now. Likely never use it but just sit and stare at it daily for few minutes anyway.
From: 12 year, Colombia, 4 years Mexico, currently In Kuwait, but Boston is HOME!!
I've tried J&M, hogtunes, but found that Rockford fosgate served my needs for face melting tunes. I would be willing to try something else in the head unit area, but not sure what to get yet, I am open to new suggestions if your running something new let me know.
You can always do your due diligence and check the website www.ampguts.com and see if your amps are listed there. Not saying they all will be, but you might get lucky. Another good source is DIYmobileaudio.com
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Likely never use it but just sit and stare at it daily for few minutes anyway.
