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Old May 20, 2016 | 09:14 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Bertk
Good idea, but would the stock stator be able to maintain two battery's?
There is a way to wire it, I just dont know how to do it. I've seen on Chris Lowe's Facebook page that he's installed a twin battery setup, but no details were included. Kinda like getting 125 dB out of a bike running just a micro4v2...the secrets in the wiring! Lol
 
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Old May 20, 2016 | 09:16 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by SCJE8
Put a Yuasa GYZ32HL in my Street Glide last month...perfect fit...500 (advertised) CCA. The old girl never cranked so fast and clean!

Picked mine up at Phat Performance for $132.50 to my door.

Steve
Thinking this might be the ticket!!! Thx for the info.

It would be nice to have my battery lose 15 lbs via lithium versus my fat **** losing 15 lbs. Work smart, not hard, right!!!

T.
 
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Old May 20, 2016 | 10:10 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by 09baggerdude
There is a way to wire it, I just dont know how to do it. I've seen on Chris Lowe's Facebook page that he's installed a twin battery setup, but no details were included. Kinda like getting 125 dB out of a bike running just a micro4v2...the secrets in the wiring! Lol
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_122AK35....html?tp=36390
 
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Old May 20, 2016 | 10:27 PM
  #14  
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Better add this to that kit if you want reliability. You need to isolate the primary battery from the auxiliary battery to prevent the auxiliary battery from draining the primary down. When 2 batteries are in parallel the lesser charged battery will bring the other battery down to the same level. So if auxiliary battery goes bad and voltage down to 12.2 primary goes down with it no matter what. With a isolator this is prevented.isolator
 

Last edited by slyedog; May 20, 2016 at 10:29 PM.
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Old May 21, 2016 | 12:28 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by slyedog
Better add this to that kit if you want reliability. You need to isolate the primary battery from the auxiliary battery to prevent the auxiliary battery from draining the primary down. When 2 batteries are in parallel the lesser charged battery will bring the other battery down to the same level. So if auxiliary battery goes bad and voltage down to 12.2 primary goes down with it no matter what. With a isolator this is prevented.isolator
This is good stuff! So then the auxiliary battery is recharged after the draw is over? And all accessories are wired to the secondary battery? I'm liking this idea if this is all true!
 
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Old May 21, 2016 | 12:44 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by 09baggerdude
This is good stuff! So then the auxiliary battery is recharged after the draw is over? And all accessories are wired to the secondary battery? I'm liking this idea if this is all true!
Keeps your main source battery isolated from auxiliary battery yes. I know a few guys who would dB comp. Didn't isolate and they were every day vehicles. They would have problems starting etc as the auxiliary battery would go bad and drain the main battery. Also keeps Charging focused to main source battery. There are different versions of them but point is to preserve the main source battery.
 
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Old May 21, 2016 | 12:46 AM
  #17  
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Old May 21, 2016 | 08:46 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Tailwind
Thinking this might be the ticket!!! Thx for the info.

It would be nice to have my battery lose 15 lbs via lithium versus my fat **** losing 15 lbs. Work smart, not hard, right!!!

T.
I researched the lithium batteries Tailwind...but cost and reliability is not quite there...and I didn't want to replace my chargers. And some of the Lithium units are smaller and get packed in with foam to fill the battery space. I didn't like that idea at all!

Bottom line...15 pounds of weight doesn't factor a lot with an 800 pound machine...so I stuck with the 'tried and true' technology.

And every transaction I have ever had with Phat Performance has been excellent!

Good Luck!

Steve
 
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Old May 23, 2016 | 12:37 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Bertk
For a direct replacement the Big Crank is about half the price what HD charges and it is the exact same battery. Slye recommended the Yuasa GYZ32HL heavy duty battery which can be found at Amazon or Phat Performance. Recheck fitment just to make sure.
==========================

The best battery for the money with good cca's and good quality & trach record is Yuasa's GYZ32HL & Deka/BigCranks ETX30L batteries both being maint free factory activated AGM tech.

Yuasa's GYZ32HL /500cca's is one of the best if the not the best performing high quality maint free hi tech agm batteries for money avail today for touring Hd's avail from Phatperf online for $132 (Retail is $200+) to your door,i know because i just bought it from them for my bike approx a month ago.

When i got the battery i 1st topped charge off with maint charger and then let it sit overnight off the charger not connected to the bike yet.

Then approx 10-12 hrs later the battery showed 13.2v's / 650CCA's at approx 65deg f temp,but keep in mind CCA's should be checked at " 0 " deg f so if battery was colder CCA's would have shown lower when tested.

That Yuasa battery spins the motor over in my 09 Flhtcu FAST! with no hesitation especially like many HD's experience post fueling up on a nice hot summer day & hit the starter button,mine fires right up fast with yuasa's GYZ32HL 500CCA battery.

As for the ETX30L Deka/BigCrank type maint free fact act AGM 400CCA battery ,thats also a high quality battery with a good track record avail from hightechbattery online for $97.99 (Retail is $140) to your door & is also a very good high quality long lasting battery too.

Post fully charging it prior to install when new with " unloaded idle time sitting overnight " the new Deka/Bigcrank ETX30L battery i tested that spec'd @ 400CCA's showed 13v's/520CCA's at approx 70deg F .

But again,keep in mind CCA's should be tested @ " 0 " deg f so CCA's would have been lower had the battery been tested that temp.

I recently tested that same exact ETX30L battery thats now 2.75yrs old after it i fully charged it & sitting idle overnight & it showed 12.9v's / 450cca's.

And that battery doesnt have a maint charger on it very often either,just once in a while esp in off season storage.

Also,i work on/do maint work on bikes for other people and 2 other bikes running the deka AGM bike batteries are doing very well so far,1st battery i installed in an 05 yami R* 1700 v-twin on 10/2009 is still going strong 6.5yr's later & owner doesnt use maint charger.

The 2nd Deka agm bike battery i installed was in an 06 yami R* 1700 v-twin on 4/2011 that's also still going strong 5+ yr's later too with no maint charger used by this guy either.

Bottom line is you cant go wrong with either of those AGM bike battery mfg's esp at the prices from the places i stated above.

Scott
 
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Old May 23, 2016 | 01:15 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Tailwind
Thinking this might be the ticket!!! Thx for the info.

It would be nice to have my battery lose 15 lbs via lithium versus my fat **** losing 15 lbs. Work smart, not hard, right!!!

T.
=========================

Lith bike batteries have yet to prove they can consistently / relaibly go 5.5-6+yrs before failing .

Other the the lith battery being lighter Yuasa's GYZ32HL battery spec'd 500cca battery that showes 650cca's in warmer 65deg f temp for $132 to your doror will give a lith battery a good run for the money esp since the lith batt cost significantly more money .

I have had good & bad exp with lith battery tech in automotive /vehiles in general thus far with better exp being lith battery tech in cell phones and hand power tools,had mult lith battery fails in laptop/pc apps but that is somewhat diff lith batt tech too.

The lith bike batt mfg's claim 2x srvc life over agm bike battery,but i have yet to see post after post here in hdfoums and from guys i know in the bike fld locally say they have consistantly /reliably obtained 5.5-6+yrs or more out of multiple lith bike batteries in a row from any lith bike battery mfg on the market today & not just the story i hear or read once in a while that someone out there has 3.5-4-4.5 yrs on a lith bike battery thats still in srv'c /working ok.

The new gen lith bike battery mfgs have a long way to go to prove to me their 2x-3x higher price is worth it let along proving they can reliably /consistantly go 5.5-6+ yrs one after another like the
yuasa & deka/bigcrank batteries do reliably at half the cost one after another after another yr after yr with also having a strong 520cca's & 650cca's starting power above " 0 " deg f too .

When lith bike batteries prove they can consistantly go 5.5-6yrs or more one after another after another yr after yr with proven reliability in high heat & vibration cond that lith bike batteries are more sensitive to then the 2 agm batteries i rec here are ,thats when i will consider trying one.

And thats not taking into account the lith bike batteries would likely still be cost 2x more & maybe still have worse cold temp pref then hi tech hi quality AGM battereis do too as is stated in one of the lith bike battery mfg sites( shorai?) .

The aeronitcs industry had issues with lith batteries overheating under load & starting on fire & stopped using them gong back to more reliable hi tech AGM batteries.

I had 2 diff lith batteries start on fire in my Lenovo laptop & gave up on them going back to much more reliable NIMHI battery tech battery in the laptop.

Again,the only positive experience i have had with lith battery tech being pretty reliable is in cell phones & hand help power tools like drills,yard trim tools,weed wacker & light duty leaf blowers,etc.

I have Worx 24v lith ion powered weed wacker & light duty leaf blower and those tools/batteries are performed & worked well over past 2.5-3+yrs i have owned them thus far with no battery failures,YET!/LOL!!

But i have to admit the latest gen is it 54v lawn mowers & blowers advertised on tv as being sold at is it lowes also look interesting.

Scott
 
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