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Old Oct 24, 2017 | 04:39 PM
  #11  
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[QUOTE=Respect;16764902]It all goes back to the battery my man. So what's longer, a long cable direct to the battery, or a short ground cable and all the sheet metal your running through (back to the battery)?

I like to keep things tight and just ground to the frame/body. Obviously do the necessary prep and test of whatever you're connecting to if you go this route.

Up front on the bottom of the inner fairing there's a few bolts that work well.

i cant help but think by grounding an amp in the fairing, your utilizing existing undersized wiring to carry that load back to the battery, or trying to ground thru your neck bearings to to the frame?
 
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Old Oct 24, 2017 | 05:03 PM
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[QUOTE=yooperhog;16765108]
Originally Posted by Respect
It all goes back to the battery my man. So what's longer, a long cable direct to the battery, or a short ground cable and all the sheet metal your running through (back to the battery)?

I like to keep things tight and just ground to the frame/body. Obviously do the necessary prep and test of whatever you're connecting to if you go this route.

Up front on the bottom of the inner fairing there's a few bolts that work well.

i cant help but think by grounding an amp in the fairing, your utilizing existing undersized wiring to carry that load back to the battery, or trying to ground thru your neck bearings to to the frame?
I agree with yooper 100%
Grounding to the inner steel structure of the fairing may not be the wisest idea for an amp.
Electricity will always take the path of least resistance so if the ground can't find it way thru the grease and the bearings in the neck it will possibly use those little 20-24 gauge wires going back to the BACK or ECM and if there is enough current those little wires won't last long along with the micro diodes or printed circuit boards.
Good luck and hopefully a plentiful ground.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2017 | 05:16 PM
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Take a look at the negative terminal on a bike and tell me what is grounding directly to it. EVERYTHING on the bike grounds on the chassis/frame/body. There isn't a single component on the bike that grounds direct to the battery. Headlight, radio amp itself, the starter which draws huge power, the massive energy coming out of the ignition... all goes to metal.

How is the ground circuit of an amp any different?
 
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Old Oct 24, 2017 | 05:28 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Respect
Take a look at the negative terminal on a bike and tell me what is grounding directly to it. EVERYTHING on the bike grounds on the chassis/frame/body. There isn't a single component on the bike that grounds direct to the battery. Headlight, radio amp itself, the starter which draws huge power, the massive energy coming out of the ignition... all goes to metal.

How is the ground circuit of an amp any different?
Go ahead and ground to were you want to ground. When you start getting noises or shix stops working or coming on when it is not suppose to and you are scratching your head have fun finding the problem.

BTW this thread got derailed bad. From Lineleveler to amp grounding
Sorry OP
 
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Old Oct 24, 2017 | 06:09 PM
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I'll get back to Line Leveler: do you need to adjust any of the settings on it when running B52 and set of Kappas?
 
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Old Oct 24, 2017 | 06:36 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by cshocker
I'll get back to Line Leveler: do you need to adjust any of the settings on it when running B52 and set of Kappas?
No leave the Lineleveler at the default settings
 
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Old Oct 24, 2017 | 06:47 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Respect
Take a look at the negative terminal on a bike and tell me what is grounding directly to it. EVERYTHING on the bike grounds on the chassis/frame/body. There isn't a single component on the bike that grounds direct to the battery. Headlight, radio amp itself, the starter which draws huge power, the massive energy coming out of the ignition... all goes to metal.

How is the ground circuit of an amp any different?
There’s a substantial difference in a variable amp load pull from a amp vs the load out of a capped electronic system. But again brother, ground where you like. If it works for you that’s great.

OP, as Babyboy said leave the lineleveler as is. That’s a Pandora’s box when you start messing with it without knowing the full extent of how to adjust it. You should be happy with it the way it is.
 

Last edited by tesnevo; Oct 24, 2017 at 06:57 PM.
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Old Oct 24, 2017 | 07:16 PM
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There is a dedicated ground pole 4 inches from your battery. Brake side 4 inches fwd. I think its an 11mm socket.
BT355 at default settings is the way to go. I think I have a couple of these laying around that I had on my 14 SGS so shoot me a PM if u go that route.

T.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2017 | 11:08 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Tailwind
There is a dedicated ground pole 4 inches from your battery. Brake side 4 inches fwd. I think its an 11mm socket.
BT355 at default settings is the way to go. I think I have a couple of these laying around that I had on my 14 SGS so shoot me a PM if u go that route.

T.
I found a member local that has one, I'll keep you in mind if the deal falls through. Are yours for the 4.3in or 6.5in?
 
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Old Oct 25, 2017 | 02:18 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Respect
It all goes back to the battery my man. So what's longer, a long cable direct to the battery, or a short ground cable and all the sheet metal your running through (back to the battery)?

I like to keep things tight and just ground to the frame/body. Obviously do the necessary prep and test of whatever you're connecting to if you go this route.

Up front on the bottom of the inner fairing there's a few bolts that work well.

this looks good, but MAKE SURE you run the same gauge or larger ground wire from battery to frame. Grounding to frame with thick wire is good, but if the ground wire coming from battery to your frame is 10 gauge, or smaller, and you are grounding from amp to your frame with 8 gauge or even 4, you will have a 'bottle neck' of power at that ground wire off the battery. this should help keeping your amp from being starved for power
 
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