When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Bt linelevelers, infinity kappas in the fairing, polk mm652 in the tour pack pods, ss pn4.1000d amp. Not sure what else on a Rushmore but others will chime in
That's a pretty dam good sounding budget system. The only issue would be getting the SS PN4 1000D in the fairing on the stock amp mount/tray above the H/U. To get that amp to mount will take some creative placement or modify the tray.
That's a pretty dam good sounding budget system. The only issue would be getting the SS PN4 1000D in the fairing on the stock amp mount/tray above the H/U. To get that amp to mount will take some creative placement or modify the tray.
What amp would fit well in there on his budget to feed the polks well?
To get an amp that fits on the stock amp mount to have enough power to push the recommended speakers the op will have to step up to the next tier of amps which will blow his budget pretty quick.
The SS amp will work but is going to be a tight fit with possible mods needed
To get an amp that fits on the stock amp mount to have enough power to push the recommended speakers the op will have to step up to the next tier of amps which will blow his budget pretty quick.
The SS amp will work but is going to be a tight fit with possible mods needed
Thanks for the help.
What about the CV B54? Looks like more power with a smaller foot print?
Just did this yesterday with the the PN4 in my '15 Limited. And this is 99% from the Guru Gannicus....I'll do my best here.
First of all the amp is to wide for the stock tray. to get the fairing on so back of amp(toward gauges) needs to be raised. Front needs to be dropped.
To do that...
1. Cut a block of wood 2" wide by 1" thick. Length u can figure out. I used a chunk of 2x4 and ripped it with my skill saw. That has to go up against the gauges under back of amp. I took a dremel and cut out a large notch for the electric plug so the wires weren't getting smashed. That needs to stay put so here's how I did that. DON"T LAUGH!!! I took the end of an aluminum fence tie(for chain link fences) and snipped off the short end. They are shaped like the letter L. There is a small hole in the amp tray and top of the HU that it will fit right in and keep the block off would from sliding out. Test fit a ton. Check amp clearance. It gets pushed WAY back. I also pulled the small "plugs" on each side that are zip tied for the wires to give the amp more room.
2. Mark about where the front corners of the amp are on the front of the stock tray. Take stock tray out. Cut a generous amount of those 2 corners out so front of amp will drop into those cutouts. Be careful not to cut tab off for the USB compartment. You will see that when you take the screw out of it to get the tray out. Test fit with everything again to make sure it fits. If not cut some more metal. I had to cut 3 times:0(
3. Make sure there is minimal pressure forcing up on the fairing vent. This messes with the middle windshield bolt and if there is too much pressure it won't thread right.
Also test fit your outer fairing until your sure it will clear.
Amp has to be angled so fairing will go back on. Attaching amp to tray so it is secure is a bit tricky. Use your imagination:0)
I'm an audio idiot so this is my way to pay it forward from my YODA!!
Just did this yesterday with the the PN4 in my '15 Limited. And this is 99% from the Guru Gannicus....I'll do my best here.
First of all the amp is to wide for the stock tray. to get the fairing on so back of amp(toward gauges) needs to be raised. Front needs to be dropped.
To do that...
1. Cut a block of wood 2" wide by 1" thick. Length u can figure out. I used a chunk of 2x4 and ripped it with my skill saw. That has to go up against the gauges under back of amp. I took a dremel and cut out a large notch for the electric plug so the wires weren't getting smashed. That needs to stay put so here's how I did that. DON"T LAUGH!!! I took the end of an aluminum fence tie(for chain link fences) and snipped off the short end. They are shaped like the letter L. There is a small hole in the amp tray and top of the HU that it will fit right in and keep the block off would from sliding out. Test fit a ton. Check amp clearance. It gets pushed WAY back. I also pulled the small "plugs" on each side that are zip tied for the wires to give the amp more room.
2. Mark about where the front corners of the amp are on the front of the stock tray. Take stock tray out. Cut a generous amount of those 2 corners out so front of amp will drop into those cutouts. Be careful not to cut tab off for the USB compartment. You will see that when you take the screw out of it to get the tray out. Test fit with everything again to make sure it fits. If not cut some more metal. I had to cut 3 times:0(
3. Make sure there is minimal pressure forcing up on the fairing vent. This messes with the middle windshield bolt and if there is too much pressure it won't thread right.
Also test fit your outer fairing until your sure it will clear.
Amp has to be angled so fairing will go back on. Attaching amp to tray so it is secure is a bit tricky. Use your imagination:0)
I'm an audio idiot so this is my way to pay it forward from my YODA!!
Glad it all worked out for you.
Did the pictures GANN send you help any?
Yes they did help. Gave me some benchmarks and some reference points to use. Took me better part of the day yesterday but will be all worth it when I'm all done
Yes they did help. Gave me some benchmarks and some reference points to use. Took me better part of the day yesterday but will be all worth it when I'm all done
Thank you Sir for the pics! Pics complements of Babyboy!! He's the first one on the forum I know to do this mod on the Rushmore's and it worked out really well on his sled! So I figured he would have the best pics!! We got more work to do Bruce ( Hoggzzer) it's gonna sound fantastic!!
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.