Amp wiring question
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Amp wiring question
I'm going to re-wire my entire system. I think I have a ground problem. I've been chasing some really odd things over the past couple of days and a ground issue is the only thing that makes sense. Here is a recap of what I've been dealing with: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/audio...th-stereo.html
Power wire is pretty straight forward. Amp to positive post of battery with 30a in-line fuse holder. I'm currently using 10ga wire.
Remote wire is attached to switch power off cig lighter.
Negative is currently 10ga going to ground lug on frame in front of battery. Advice on this seems to be go straight to battery.
Big question for me is should the power and ground wires be separated as much as possible? Currently they are running together from the amp all the way back in a loom.
I also have a Hawg Wired hand control interface. This seems to be acting up as well so I'm going to check the ground on that as well. I'm assuming it is ok to keep that grounded to the frame lug.
Any other advice or issues with what I'm leaning toward doing.
Zach
Power wire is pretty straight forward. Amp to positive post of battery with 30a in-line fuse holder. I'm currently using 10ga wire.
Remote wire is attached to switch power off cig lighter.
Negative is currently 10ga going to ground lug on frame in front of battery. Advice on this seems to be go straight to battery.
Big question for me is should the power and ground wires be separated as much as possible? Currently they are running together from the amp all the way back in a loom.
I also have a Hawg Wired hand control interface. This seems to be acting up as well so I'm going to check the ground on that as well. I'm assuming it is ok to keep that grounded to the frame lug.
Any other advice or issues with what I'm leaning toward doing.
Zach
Last edited by Biggzed; Feb 11, 2018 at 12:04 PM.
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Seasoned HDF Member
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Thanks Daveblank.
I pulled the tank and fairing yesterday. Found the black wire loose on the HawgWired interface. Fixed that and hand controls are back to normal. Re-routed the amp ground wire to the battery and then re-set the head unit EQ. I played it hard in the garage for about 10-15 minutes. It sounded great.
Put it all back together and took it for a ride. Sounded good for about 5 minutes, then the left rear speaker started cutting out again. Not sure where to go from here. Probably going to have to find a shop that works on bikes. Just can't wait for them to tell me I shouldn't be using these components on a bike......
Zach
I pulled the tank and fairing yesterday. Found the black wire loose on the HawgWired interface. Fixed that and hand controls are back to normal. Re-routed the amp ground wire to the battery and then re-set the head unit EQ. I played it hard in the garage for about 10-15 minutes. It sounded great.
Put it all back together and took it for a ride. Sounded good for about 5 minutes, then the left rear speaker started cutting out again. Not sure where to go from here. Probably going to have to find a shop that works on bikes. Just can't wait for them to tell me I shouldn't be using these components on a bike......
Zach
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Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 6,621
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From: Indianapolis IN.
Thanks Daveblank.
I pulled the tank and fairing yesterday. Found the black wire loose on the HawgWired interface. Fixed that and hand controls are back to normal. Re-routed the amp ground wire to the battery and then re-set the head unit EQ. I played it hard in the garage for about 10-15 minutes. It sounded great.
Put it all back together and took it for a ride. Sounded good for about 5 minutes, then the left rear speaker started cutting out again. Not sure where to go from here. Probably going to have to find a shop that works on bikes. Just can't wait for them to tell me I shouldn't be using these components on a bike......
Zach
I pulled the tank and fairing yesterday. Found the black wire loose on the HawgWired interface. Fixed that and hand controls are back to normal. Re-routed the amp ground wire to the battery and then re-set the head unit EQ. I played it hard in the garage for about 10-15 minutes. It sounded great.
Put it all back together and took it for a ride. Sounded good for about 5 minutes, then the left rear speaker started cutting out again. Not sure where to go from here. Probably going to have to find a shop that works on bikes. Just can't wait for them to tell me I shouldn't be using these components on a bike......
Zach
Have you checked the speaker itself? i don't think the shop is the solution. You can find the problem if you keep looking. Don't give up!!
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I haven't swapped it to the other lid if that's what you are thinking of as a test. Only reason I haven't is because it sounds great without the bike running.
Another thing I forgot to mention earlier. I notice the block on the amp where the speaker terminals are was slightly loose. As in I could wiggle it about 1/8". I tried wiggling it while the stereo was playing and the bike not running and it had no effect. Guess I should have tried it with the bike running. Sound Stream PN4.1000D.
Zach
Another thing I forgot to mention earlier. I notice the block on the amp where the speaker terminals are was slightly loose. As in I could wiggle it about 1/8". I tried wiggling it while the stereo was playing and the bike not running and it had no effect. Guess I should have tried it with the bike running. Sound Stream PN4.1000D.
Zach
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 6,621
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From: Indianapolis IN.
I haven't swapped it to the other lid if that's what you are thinking of as a test. Only reason I haven't is because it sounds great without the bike running.
Another thing I forgot to mention earlier. I notice the block on the amp where the speaker terminals are was slightly loose. As in I could wiggle it about 1/8". I tried wiggling it while the stereo was playing and the bike not running and it had no effect. Guess I should have tried it with the bike running. Sound Stream PN4.1000D.
Zach
Another thing I forgot to mention earlier. I notice the block on the amp where the speaker terminals are was slightly loose. As in I could wiggle it about 1/8". I tried wiggling it while the stereo was playing and the bike not running and it had no effect. Guess I should have tried it with the bike running. Sound Stream PN4.1000D.
Zach
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From: Nashville, TN
This is true if your using good quality shielded wire designed for supply. Do not go cheap here. Make sure there are no chaffing on those wires when you have it apart. Its possible something is getting pinched/chaffed and grounding out
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Seasoned HDF Member
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I'm using a roll of 10ga red and black from Radio Shack. Seriously doubt it's shielded. I'll do some searching. Thanks for the additional input.
Zach
Zach
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Club Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 917
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From: Nashville, TN
Check out amazon for 8-10 gauge amp wire kits. (USE THE SIZE WIRE YOUR AMP RECOMMENDS) Plenty on there that are good enough quality. Also pay really close attention on where you run the wire. Make absolutely sure the wires don't get pinched/crimped/chaffed/etc. Make sure your connections are good and tight/soldered/crimped. You can always go so far as to run wire loom over the wires as well.
6th Gear
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 13
Likes: 1
From: Saginaw, MI
OK...so, I'm a newbie trying to get the info I need to install some new aftermarket speakers and an amp on a 1995 Electra Glide... I've done a lot of mechanical work and a tiny bit of wiring but (to be honest) I'm a little overwhelmed and feeling outta my league. :-/ I'm hoping someone might be able to give me some direction on how best to wire this system...??
Equipment:
- HEAD UNIT:
- JVC KD-R97MBS ( https://www.cnet.com/products/jvc-kd...ull-din/specs/ )
- AMP:
- Soundstream PN1.1000D ( http://soundstream.com/product/pn1-1000d/ )
- (2) 6.5" PYLE FRONT FAIRING SPEAKERS:
- 4 Ohm - 400W Peak - 200W RMS ( https://www.cnet.com/products/pyle-h...-marine/specs/ )
- (4) ROCKVILLE 6x9 SADDLEBAG SPEAKERS:
- 4 Ohm - 500W Peak - 125W RMS ( https://www.rockvilleaudio.com/rmsts69w/ )