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the 3/4 head unit volume setting is an estimated starting point, the purpose is to get a clean signal out of the head unit. the signal on a stock HU will begin to distort at some point. if you had the SMD distortion tester,or an O scope, you could hook it up to the head unit and see exactly at what level the head unit signal begins to distort.
the object is to get as much clean signal out of the head unit into the amp. if the amp is getting a distorted signal, it will amplify that and the result is poor SQ.
the 3/4 position is just a recommended starting point, on some HU's it is fine, some too much, some too little. it's an easy thing to adjust and check your results
this also might sound basic, but did you check the polarity on the speaker wire and amp. if you have them out of phase or not the same as each other, that can also affect the sq. different speakers use different size connector tabs on them, it is not a universal thing. i always have to double check and make sure that the polarity is correct., +wire to + terminal and -wire to-terminal.
m.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions!... But this is driving me nuts!. whats confuses me about the polarity thing is the cerwin vega amps speaker wire input is a little sketchy... i seen some where on another post that the polarity reads wrong... black line on the wire is not negative but shows negative on the wires to the speaker ... ive tried switching the wires to test it and not much changed if any
that is why you cant take the prewired connector for granted,,,,take the picture of the output section of the amp. i dont care what color the wire is, the designation on the amp says that that socket is for + or -. that being said, using my aftermarket speaker wire i make my own designation to the wire, whether it is black on one side and red on the other, or a solid color on one and a striped tracer on the other. i make up my own mind which will be + and -, then wire i to the amp and speaker (most of the time the label on the speaker is correct). I run into this issue everytime i have to bridge a Mmats or RF amp as sometimes the same situation occurs. As Tailwind always says, "Details, Details, Details!!"...........................used without permission, but hopefully understood and forgiven.
m
I'm going to go against the grain here. If it were me, I'd mark the default location of the pots on the line leveler and adjust the pots on the side of it, not the ones on the end of it. Move it slowly, a little goes a long way. I would try 1 direction and see if it gets better, if not, go the other way. Try 1 of the pots first, if it gets better, adjust the other the same way.
I'll probably get flamed for it, but I'd have to try it, especially since nothing else seems to be the issue
Just thought I would point out that the OP in that thread re-used the connectors from his Rockford Fosgate PBR300X2 amp since both amp's use the same molex plug. He assumed that the Rockford PBR amp followed the same wiring scheme as the CV B52, but that was not the case and that is why he had an issue. If he would have used the pigtail that came with the B52 he most likely would not have had a problem. He re-used the PBR plugs for convenience because they were already wired up, and was hoping for a plug and play swap. In a later post he realized his issue and fixed it. The CV B52 is labelled correctly and the pigtail that comes with the amp also has the + and - wires in the correct spots, there is no confusion as long as you use the supplied pigtail that comes with the amp. But it's always good to check, double check, re-check, and then check the wiring again.
Makes sense thank you!.. I'll try and adjust the line leveler this morning... there are default Mark's on it to reference... it's almost like theres a frequency blocker blocking everything past mids... no highs
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