Advanced Tuning
On that note, I have seen three sleds in the last week with aftermarket HUs that are trying to get their shix so damn loud at half volume (even though it's technically distortion free at full volume), it's a bit of a head scratcher.
Let's just say 40 is the max clean signal on ur HU, are u better off having a very steep volume / gain slope to get to a ridiculous max volume set by a DD1 / DMM or are u better off with a shallower volume slope that gets u the most viable listening volume at max?
The gain setting sticky at the top applies in most basic setups but with the higher performance products being used with big watts, does it apply. I simply turned the gains down on all three of those sleds and their SQ dramatically improved with more that enuff DBs to rip ears off.
So what are the basic fundamentals regarding the HUs and volts/output and the slope to viable top end volume?
It's the simple stuff that can send dudes deep in the SQ weeds, but it sure is cool to have all that volume at 20 out of 40 right?
The ultimate question for the engineer & technical types, what is the optimum/basic strategy to maximized to output volts of that HU? I know my HU plays best in the 5/8 to 3/4 range regardless of DD1 capabilities thus I tune to that wheelhouse.
T
Let's just say 40 is the max clean signal on ur HU, are u better off having a very steep volume / gain slope to get to a ridiculous max volume set by a DD1 / DMM or are u better off with a shallower volume slope that gets u the most viable listening volume at max?
The gain setting sticky at the top applies in most basic setups but with the higher performance products being used with big watts, does it apply. I simply turned the gains down on all three of those sleds and their SQ dramatically improved with more that enuff DBs to rip ears off.
So what are the basic fundamentals regarding the HUs and volts/output and the slope to viable top end volume?
It's the simple stuff that can send dudes deep in the SQ weeds, but it sure is cool to have all that volume at 20 out of 40 right?
The ultimate question for the engineer & technical types, what is the optimum/basic strategy to maximized to output volts of that HU? I know my HU plays best in the 5/8 to 3/4 range regardless of DD1 capabilities thus I tune to that wheelhouse.
T
I know on my system I tuned the amps at 43/50 XAV AX100 (older model) with the DD1. I have not turned my system up past 32 and that is on a (lower DB track) most of the time I sit around 19-22 riding normal, well normal for me.
Juice
Originally Posted by Juice
"T" good post,
I know on my system I tuned the amps at 43/50 XAV AX100 (older model) with the DD1. I have not turned my system up past 32 and that is on a (lower DB track) most of the time I sit around 19-22 riding normal, well normal for me.
Juice
I know on my system I tuned the amps at 43/50 XAV AX100 (older model) with the DD1. I have not turned my system up past 32 and that is on a (lower DB track) most of the time I sit around 19-22 riding normal, well normal for me.
Juice
Take that to the extreme where dudes often say "man my shix is sooooo loud at 7 I never need to exceed 10 out of 17 at 70 mph? Or 20 out of 40? Or?
What is the basic engineering in that HU for optimum performance. Does ur car run best in the first half of the RPM band or the last 2/3 before the red shix?
T
IMHO, clean signal is all that matters. I set my gains at max clean hu volume. Setting your gains to max output at half volume only sets you up for a bad situation. If someone else runs the volume or you get a case of whiskey thumb you could blow **** up.
Also, just because a DD1 says the signal is ok doesn’t mean it is. I’ve seen some questionable waves on the scope pass a dd1.
Also, just because a DD1 says the signal is ok doesn’t mean it is. I’ve seen some questionable waves on the scope pass a dd1.
Last edited by InthewindMN; Jun 24, 2019 at 11:26 AM.
This conversation is quite interesting to me. When I first set the gains on my Amp (MMats MD4110) I did it completely by ear and I was very happy with the sound, but I thought maybe I was leaving some volume off the table. At highway speeds I had enough volume to hear my tunes just fine but I was running the volume at the top of my max tuned volume (Sony 5000 tuned at 44 out of 50). I went back and tried to tune via DMM and I found that with the volume at 44 and the gains set to a DMM reading that equaled to 110 Watts (somewhere around 22 V), I had a significant amount of audible distortion. I ended up turning the gains back down to about where they were in the first place (quite a bit lower) to get good clean sound. Maybe I should pick up a DD1 and try again.
I like that y'all are mentioning the point of gains being set higher than necessary. I have seen handlebar volume buttons stick in the up position before. If your maximum undistorted volume level is at only 1/2 or 3/4 of the maximum volume of the head unit and the volume gets set wide open speakers might get unhappy if the amps don't go into shutdown mode first.
Now, at what volume level (distortion free) does the volume/out put go up exponentially? Is it at the 50% mark or higher and how steep is it. I am sure each deck is different. IDK, just putting more thoughts out there.
I agree with Jim, I tuned my amps at max clean power/output on my deck 43/50.
But, as Tailwind said I never get near my max clean volume level. I am way more than half of it though.
I have seen guys with the XAV 5000 get into the 40+ range. I do not know how they tuned their amp, by ear, or DMM. Mine was tuned with a DD1
Juice
I agree with Jim, I tuned my amps at max clean power/output on my deck 43/50.
But, as Tailwind said I never get near my max clean volume level. I am way more than half of it though.
I have seen guys with the XAV 5000 get into the 40+ range. I do not know how they tuned their amp, by ear, or DMM. Mine was tuned with a DD1
Juice
To me - much more of a novice than you guys - the gains and volume, etc. we're the easiest part to understand.
For my for setup I tuned by ear following instructions by the gurus here. Sounded great, was easy to hear, but again that was only a two-channel amp and fairing coax speakers.
Adding the lowers and changing the amp to a 4-channel and I tuned again by ear. It was loud and clear again..
BUT when I added the speaker lids and the DD's with the bridged amp then things got harder. I noticed imbalances between the lowers and fairings and also between the DDs in the lids.
CPBedor helped me with setting the gains using a DMM and it was only then I realized that the two gain settings can be off from one another at the same output. Also I was well under my max gain settings on each amp tuning by ear.
So I think both ways to do it are useful and certainly -from a novice perspective - knowing how to set it with a DMM assists you in setting it or finalizing the settings by ear
For me the part that I find the most difficult or intricate is setting the crossover and slope. Especially when there are HU settings AND amp settings. It seems as if there is a lot of recommendations about where to start and then from there it's experiment until you get the sound you like.
I find it difficult to know exactly the sound I should be looking for for. Especially after hearing some of the bikes at the sound contests. My expectations became unrealistic for a system.that is normally going to be heard riding at 40+ mph.
For my for setup I tuned by ear following instructions by the gurus here. Sounded great, was easy to hear, but again that was only a two-channel amp and fairing coax speakers.
Adding the lowers and changing the amp to a 4-channel and I tuned again by ear. It was loud and clear again..
BUT when I added the speaker lids and the DD's with the bridged amp then things got harder. I noticed imbalances between the lowers and fairings and also between the DDs in the lids.
CPBedor helped me with setting the gains using a DMM and it was only then I realized that the two gain settings can be off from one another at the same output. Also I was well under my max gain settings on each amp tuning by ear.
So I think both ways to do it are useful and certainly -from a novice perspective - knowing how to set it with a DMM assists you in setting it or finalizing the settings by ear
For me the part that I find the most difficult or intricate is setting the crossover and slope. Especially when there are HU settings AND amp settings. It seems as if there is a lot of recommendations about where to start and then from there it's experiment until you get the sound you like.
I find it difficult to know exactly the sound I should be looking for for. Especially after hearing some of the bikes at the sound contests. My expectations became unrealistic for a system.that is normally going to be heard riding at 40+ mph.









