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What an a-hole! I'm putting my Boom shix back in and tapping out!!!
Good post Sandy Bedor!! Totally agree that the demands associated with sled audio just are not going to afford the bass freqs u might pick up in a cage from a 6.5 however u can seek some warmth to take the edge off, but how much edge off will be determined by a combination of watts applied, specs and tune.
Good post Chris. That post doesn't make you an ahole, maybe all the other shix, but not that.... lol
I guess I never really looked at 80hz being bass. I just considered it warmer tones rather than bass. I picked 80 as the cutoff for several reasons. Most of the speakers we discuss, carry that as specs first and foremost. Another reason I chose 80 is it seems to be the baseline HP setting in most threads, when discussing amp setup.
I firmly believe that we should let a speaker play where it's comfortable and meant to play. My old *** ears like warmth over shrill. Most of the ground pounders around home with systems, hurts my ears. While listening to some of them, putting my hand over their horns, makes them bearable.
In other threads I've conceded to the fact that my expectations were the issue, not the equipment. I've also changed up strategy by end tuning with all speakers in play, as opposed to tuning each stage as a stand alone setup. This has helped overall sound quality and manage expectations. For me, I think AD dunked the ball with tuning the fairing and lowers at 100+ and letting the margarita mixer do their thing.
BTW, thanks for that chart. It's my first time seeing that layed out like that. That's a save pic.
Last edited by Dsm Limited; Jun 25, 2019 at 04:36 AM.
I think it's sled that makes good speakers and tuning seam so hard .
I have installed alot of removed items from bike to truck and what was ok played great but more close comparison would be be my side by side .prv mmats and pro 6x9 all play in there spec sheet wheel house and sound way better threw all freq with less air space .just little bit of cage space and engine in rear sound needs some way to surround you not just excape to open air.
Guess saying it's not the speaker it's the task we are fighting
I appreciate you starting this thread. This is very timely for me. Between this one and the one Babyboy started I'm sure I will be able to get my set-up sounding decent. Now that everything is installed and making noise it's time to make it sound good.
Before anything gets set up outside making a baseline to start with on your EQ and crossovers is setting the input and output up properly, with source level for reduced noise floor. Any dsp that has a interface will have this. Pay attention to the input and output meters. Once these are set correct then you can begin to tune a flat tune and set gains with test tone, meter, scope, dd1, ear whatever.
I did notice on my DSR-1 it asked what output voltage the HU was rated for. My Sony is a 5V out, but the DSR-1 only goes to 4V. So I set it at 4v and went from there. I'm assuming that's about all I can do?
Zach
Originally Posted by slyedog
Before anything gets set up outside making a baseline to start with on your EQ and crossovers is setting the input and output up properly, with source level for reduced noise floor. Any dsp that has a interface will have this. Pay attention to the input and output meters. Once these are set correct then you can begin to tune a flat tune and set gains with test tone, meter, scope, dd1, ear whatever.
For those of you with the arc psm, I'd suggest watching the videos from Arc about the PS8 setup. It's very similar to the PSM and will give you a lot of technical advice on setup.
I did notice on my DSR-1 it asked what output voltage the HU was rated for. My Sony is a 5V out, but the DSR-1 only goes to 4V. So I set it at 4v and went from there. I'm assuming that's about all I can do?
Zach
Depends on the output at volume level you chose to set gains at. Example if the head unit clips at 40 of 50 but doesn't hit 4v range till 45 your running higher amp gain than needs to be. May be minimal may be quite a bit. Easy to drop master level down more and run 2 volts. Depends on noise floor as well and how much is there. That's where input/output meters help.
This may be common knowledge, IDK, but just to add to the conversation. Adding 3dB of boost to a given frequency on an eq effectively doubles the amplifier power at the frequency. Think about that for a minute, say we boost 100hz 3dB the amp is going to try and produce twice the available power at that frequency assuming no other frequency is boosted. Knowing that low frequencies are more taxing on amplifiers this is kind of food for thought on how much to boost a given frequency. To put it another way the amp is working harder to amplify an already difficult area, how does that effect the rest of the frequency spectrum? In my mind it's got to suffer. Problem is conventional logic doesn't go on 2 wheel audio.
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