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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 04:24 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by GermanRedrum
for aftermarket audio, absolutely. IF, you were just using the HD Boom system, I’m not as familiar. But if you use the low outs on the back of the head and third party amps, there’s no reason why you couldn’t.
An essentially cut your output in half...no thanks I'll pass. Yes there is a time where running speakers in series is justified...this isn't one of them....nor hardly any other application you'll run across in sled audio due to the nature of components used.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 04:47 PM
  #22  
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It will DOUBLE your out put and not stress the amp. Your OHMs won’t plummet causing your amp the clip. It’s an OLD audio trick.

essentially, let’s say you have two speakers per side. You have a say 400 wt 2 channel amp. You take the positive out from the amp to the positive in on the one side then take the negative off that SAME speaker and connect it to the other speaker on the same sides positive. Then connect the negative from the 2nd speaker and connect it to the negative on the amp. It’s tricking the amp by telling it you just have little bit bigger speaker. Do the same to the other channel on the amp for the other side.

trust me, car audio guys do this a LOT!! Plus you save plenty on amps.

it’s called a SERIAL speaker connection. The normal way is called PARALLEL. Research it. You’ll see.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 04:54 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by GermanRedrum
It will DOUBLE your out put and not stress the amp. Your OHMs won’t plummet causing your amp the clip. It’s an OLD audio trick.

essentially, let’s say you have two speakers per side. You have a say 400 wt 2 channel amp. You take the positive out from the amp to the positive in on the one side then take the negative off that SAME speaker and connect it to the other speaker on the same sides positive. Then connect the negative from the 2nd speaker and connect it to the negative on the amp. It’s tricking the amp by telling it you just have little bit bigger speaker. Do the same to the other channel on the amp for the other side.

trust me, car audio guys do this a LOT!! Plus you save plenty on amps.

it’s called a SERIAL speaker connection. The normal way is called PARALLEL. Research it. You’ll see.
Just a reminder, we are not talking about cars here. Very different animal.

Also the amp has no clue nor does it care how big the speaker is. It only knows/senses the resistance (ohms). It could have 1 or 10 speakers and it wont know the difference if its wired to meet a certain ohm spec that amp can handle
 
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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 05:04 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by GermanRedrum
It will DOUBLE your out put and not stress the amp. Your OHMs won’t plummet causing your amp the clip. It’s an OLD audio trick.

essentially, let’s say you have two speakers per side. You have a say 400 wt 2 channel amp. You take the positive out from the amp to the positive in on the one side then take the negative off that SAME speaker and connect it to the other speaker on the same sides positive. Then connect the negative from the 2nd speaker and connect it to the negative on the amp. It’s tricking the amp by telling it you just have little bit bigger speaker. Do the same to the other channel on the amp for the other side.

trust me, car audio guys do this a LOT!! Plus you save plenty on amps.

it’s called a SERIAL speaker connection. The normal way is called PARALLEL. Research it. You’ll see.
Ok here it is in a nutshell. I'm breaking out the crayons just for you. First of all it's not called SERIAL...it's SERIES. So let's say you're running 4ohm speakers, each on their own channel getting 150 watts each. Doing this the way you are suggesting, 4ohm in SERIES to another 4ohm speaker, creates an 8ohm load. Running that on one channel you have effectively cut your power to each of those speakers in half.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 05:15 PM
  #25  
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I apologize. I had the terms swapped. My mistake.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 05:31 PM
  #26  
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Has anyone used this before. If reading right, I will retain the factory speaker wiring.


 
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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 05:41 PM
  #27  
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I don't think that will do what you are wanting, at least not exactly.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 05:43 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Toner123
Has anyone used this before. If reading right, I will retain the factory speaker wiring.

Is your CVO an Ultra? If so then yes, this is what you need to retain factory wiring to your lids.
I would call Mike at Biketronics and confirm.
 

Last edited by SBates08; Jan 13, 2020 at 05:45 PM.
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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 06:17 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by SBates08
Is your CVO an Ultra? If so then yes, this is what you need to retain factory wiring to your lids.
I would call Mike at Biketronics and confirm.
Mine is a CVO roadglide but when I looked up the harness part numbers, they were the same. But you are right, I will call to confirm.

You all have been amazing and i thank you for the help.

Now just a general question Harley advertises my bike as 600 watts. Will this new system with the parts listed be much louder? Just curious since the mmats 601 cx are advertised as 100 wrms.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 06:21 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Toner123
Mine is a CVO roadglide but when I looked up the harness part numbers, they were the same. But you are right, I will call to confirm.

You all have been amazing and i thank you for the help.

Now just a general question Harley advertises my bike as 600 watts. Will this new system with the parts listed be much louder? Just curious since the mmats 601 cx are advertised as 100 wrms.
The watt rating on your Harley system is extremely exaggerated. As far as those Mmat speakers go, they'll take up to 150 watts all day long. The setup that has been suggested will blow away what you have now, regardless of the watt ratings.
 
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