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Ok. On amp for front speakers it should be
1up 2 down 3 up 4 down. On rear amp
1 up 2 down 3 down 4 down.
For both amps fader should be up, input should be up, and auto turn on should be up. After making sure all dip switches are where they should be, try to set your gains again.
without the use of a multi meter I usually set it by ear and watch the cones for over extension and dial it back just before that point but for some reason with this setup I can’t even touch the gains without them starting to mud up
Well for starters I think you had the crossover settings too low. The front amp was set at 80hz and they should be able to handle that with no more power than the amp puts out. The biggest issue I saw was the rear amp was set at 60hz for the 6.5's and the 6x9's. The 6.5's definitely can't handle that. They're now set at 120hz for the 6.5's and 80hz for the 6x9's.
Well for starters I think you had the crossover settings too low. The front amp was set at 80hz and they should be able to handle that with no more power than the amp puts out. The biggest issue I saw was the rear amp was set at 60hz for the 6.5's and the 6x9's. The 6.5's definitely can't handle that. They're now set at 120hz for the 6.5's and 80hz for the 6x9's.
ok i made the changes and it actually sounds worse the fronts are hitting way too hard and its distorting with the gains all the way down bass/treb @ 50% and volume at 75%
ok i made the changes and it actually sounds worse the fronts are hitting way too hard and its distorting with the gains all the way down bass/treb @ 50% and volume at 75%
Not sure what to tell ya. According to their schematics, your fairing speakers, lowers, and tourpack should be at 120hz and lids at 80hz with the configuration I told you to use. That's assuming the switch location is in black in the photo.
Try this. Front amp 1down 2up 3down 4up.
Rear amp 1down 2up 3up 4up. I'm betting the dip switches are white in the photo. If I'm correct this should fix it.
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