Stinger Setup on Ultra
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 385
Likes: 37
From: Two Rivers, WI
Stinger Setup on Ultra
Ok, so I have completed the Mmats 601cx in front, Stinger, and the BT355LL on the fronts.
The real problem comes with the rear Tour pak stock speakers. It is detachable, and no other speakers are currently installed. So, here I go with my concerns:
1) possess BT355LL rear connector. How do Iconnect it - all alone or do i need a harness from BT?
2) Speaker wires - Run new wires or splice into OEM wires by radio ? Quick disconnects at other detachable TP clips location?
3). OR..... Say Screw it and get the s/b lid speaker setup. And dont use amp on rears till then.
Who has experience with both BT355's?
The real problem comes with the rear Tour pak stock speakers. It is detachable, and no other speakers are currently installed. So, here I go with my concerns:
1) possess BT355LL rear connector. How do Iconnect it - all alone or do i need a harness from BT?
2) Speaker wires - Run new wires or splice into OEM wires by radio ? Quick disconnects at other detachable TP clips location?
3). OR..... Say Screw it and get the s/b lid speaker setup. And dont use amp on rears till then.
Who has experience with both BT355's?
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 3,367
Likes: 689
From: indiana
Ok, so I have completed the Mmats 601cx in front, Stinger, and the BT355LL on the fronts.
The real problem comes with the rear Tour pak stock speakers. It is detachable, and no other speakers are currently installed. So, here I go with my concerns:
1) possess BT355LL rear connector. How do Iconnect it - all alone or do i need a harness from BT?
2) Speaker wires - Run new wires or splice into OEM wires by radio ? Quick disconnects at other detachable TP clips location?
3). OR..... Say Screw it and get the s/b lid speaker setup. And dont use amp on rears till then.
Who has experience with both BT355's?
The real problem comes with the rear Tour pak stock speakers. It is detachable, and no other speakers are currently installed. So, here I go with my concerns:
1) possess BT355LL rear connector. How do Iconnect it - all alone or do i need a harness from BT?
2) Speaker wires - Run new wires or splice into OEM wires by radio ? Quick disconnects at other detachable TP clips location?
3). OR..... Say Screw it and get the s/b lid speaker setup. And dont use amp on rears till then.
Who has experience with both BT355's?
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 2,838
Likes: 572
From: Lockport Illinois
The rear bt355 has a 4 prong molex connector that will plug into the rear output from the hu. You dont need a harness, just the bt355. You can use the existing wiring going to the tp. You can also use quick connects at the tp so you can take it off. You have the stinger so why not use the rear channels for the TP. Just be sure that once you add the rear bt 355, put the stinger into 4 channel input to keep your fade control. If you dont want or have fade control now then you wont need the rear bt355. Just keep the stinger in 2 channel and wire your tp speakers to channel 3/4 and be done.
The ultra and limited DO NOT have the 4 pin molex plug in the fairing as the SG and RG do.
To retain the use of the fader on the ultra and limited it will require a breakout harness or cutting into the harness somewhere( not recommended)
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 3,367
Likes: 689
From: indiana
Well there you go as I have learned something today. Thanks Rob.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 385
Likes: 37
From: Two Rivers, WI
Well I really don't want to lose the fader, however, I want a clean wiring job. Will check with BT and the breakout harness. Can I not splice into the rear speaker wires to main harness intact?
Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 682
Likes: 84
From: Ohio
Ask yourself this....how often do you think you would put sound back or forward? When at speed it won't really matter. With what you have, you won't hear much from the rear and the wind noise would largely drown it out. What I did was a signal converter, flashed the system, and did not cut a single wire from my harness. The convertor taps into the speaker outputs which in turn becomes RCA's to my DSP, then to my amp, then fresh speaker wires to each one. I could go back to completely stock if desired.
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Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 682
Likes: 84
From: Ohio
Oh, I see you're leaving stock speakers in the tour pack. Those will be 2 ohm speakers, and the MMats are likely 4 ohm. Not sure you can do that with one amp easily. Plus, the stock harley speakers have different terminal connectors than the rest of the world. Pos terminal is small, and negative big. On aftermarket (mmats, etc) it's reversed. I might be backwards, but they are def not the same. Make sure you do your polarity correct when making connections.
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Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 385
Likes: 37
From: Two Rivers, WI
Oh, I see you're leaving stock speakers in the tour pack. Those will be 2 ohm speakers, and the MMats are likely 4 ohm. Not sure you can do that with one amp easily. Plus, the stock harley speakers have different terminal connectors than the rest of the world. Pos terminal is small, and negative big. On aftermarket (mmats, etc) it's reversed. I might be backwards, but they are def not the same. Make sure you do your polarity correct when making connections.
If I splice into rear wires, I can keep detachable TP swaps easy.
I maybe over thinking this ****...lol.
Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 682
Likes: 84
From: Ohio
You could make disconnects, weatherpack type, for the rear speaker pods too.