Starter sound through my stereo
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Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 25
Likes: 10
From: Spokane, WA
Starter sound through my stereo
I am trying to figure this out and cannot understand why this is happening. I wired my 125.4 DSP amp into my stereo setup and if the stereo is on and playing any music when I start the bike is send a full volume screech through all of my speakers as long as the starter button is depressed, it is not a quick pop. Once off the starter no more sound, or if I start the bike prior to music coming through the system there is no screech. What am I missing, have move the remote wire from the auxiliary power outlet to the factory outlet for a power antenna that is not used for anything and the sound is still there. What should I be trying next, I have never had this in all of the stereo setups that I have had.
Please tell me that someone has experienced this and knows how to fix this.
Please tell me that someone has experienced this and knows how to fix this.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 25
Likes: 10
From: Spokane, WA
The power wire is run direct to the battery, the negative is also going to the battery. I have the remote wire run to the auxiliary power outlet to the factory outlet for a power antenna that is not used for anything. I am running a single Cicada 125.4DSP with 6-1/2" Horns in the front, and the 6-1/2" Coax in the back all of the speakers are 2 ohm speakers. The sound is fantastic through the system, it makes no noise or popping when the bike is turned off. But when music is played through the system prior to starting the screeching sounds like the brushes on the starter are amplified through the speakers, if I start the bike before music is playing no sound goes through the system. It is not a constant buzzing it is a super load screech only when I fire up the bike, and when the head unit is completed its powering up phase.
Last edited by Kimberling; Jan 30, 2022 at 12:06 AM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 399
From: Vancouver, BC
What model and year is your bike? What HU do you have? As Teedoff says it could be ground-related noise but it might also be that the amp needs to be delayed to turn on after the HU is finished powering up (normally you want the amp to be the last device to turn on and first to turn off). If this is the case you might need to use a programmable trigger like this one to delay the amp powering up. I'd try calling Cicada for support on the DSP125.4D on this one.
Last edited by hamah; Jan 30, 2022 at 05:20 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2017
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From: High Point, NC.
How is your remote turn ons wired? I have my dsp and amps all piggy backed....so the amp comes on first, which turns on my second amp and then lastly my dsp. Then I have that all tied into the aux harness under the RG fairing where the turn signal harness is. Used the harley y connector.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 25
Likes: 10
From: Spokane, WA
I have a 2018 Ultra Limited, with the stock Harley Head Unit. I am not sure that a delay would fix the issue as when music is playing could be a minute in when I hit the starter button it sends the sound through all 4 of the speakers. If I start the bike without music then no sound through the speakers. In turning on the ignition the DSP amp (single unit) turns on and lights up right away, and still not a sound unless the head unit is on. In my DSP app I can set I can set delays for speakers but if I need to set a delay for the amp and that would fix it then I will get the universal trigger and set it up. The volume can be at zero and it still sends a full volume screech through the system, for the entirety of the starter motor. Cicada has been contacted and Larry is aware and has been extremely helpful in attempts to get everything right, but its not a hum or hiss through the speakers its a deafening scream when it starts and the radio is powered all the way on.
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 399
From: Vancouver, BC
Curious as to why you might have the ignition switch in the "Ignition" position for a minute before hitting the starter? If you are in the "Accessory" position and then switching to "Ignition" to fire up the bike a delay might help.
It does sound like a ground loop as mentioned by Teedoff. How have you wired the speaker outputs of the GTS HU to the amp input? I'm guessing you are using speaker-level inputs (aka high-level input). Try tying the metal chassis of the HU to the amp chassis with a wire (use the mounting bolts or, temporarily as a test, a jumper with alligator clips on both ends).
Using a delayed turn-on, Ground Loop Isolator (GLI), or even tying the chassis together is masking the symptoms. Fixing the root-cause issue is usually more difficult (and not always necessary or even possible). If the noise only happens when cranking the starter it could be related to the starter, solenoid, BCM, or RHC module (bad starter switch).
Check the battery-to-frame and battery-to-transmission ground straps for tightness and integrity. Also, check the bolts that attach the starter to the transmission. All are likely fine but it's worth looking at.
Does the noise continue if you keep your thumb on the start switch after the motor has fired up? The starter clutch will allow the shell and sprocket to spin freely so you won't hurt anything trying this and the BCM has a timer that will disable the solenoid if you press too long (10 sec IIRC). What if the run switch is off? Do you get the noise when pressing the start button?
It does sound like a ground loop as mentioned by Teedoff. How have you wired the speaker outputs of the GTS HU to the amp input? I'm guessing you are using speaker-level inputs (aka high-level input). Try tying the metal chassis of the HU to the amp chassis with a wire (use the mounting bolts or, temporarily as a test, a jumper with alligator clips on both ends).
Using a delayed turn-on, Ground Loop Isolator (GLI), or even tying the chassis together is masking the symptoms. Fixing the root-cause issue is usually more difficult (and not always necessary or even possible). If the noise only happens when cranking the starter it could be related to the starter, solenoid, BCM, or RHC module (bad starter switch).
Check the battery-to-frame and battery-to-transmission ground straps for tightness and integrity. Also, check the bolts that attach the starter to the transmission. All are likely fine but it's worth looking at.
Does the noise continue if you keep your thumb on the start switch after the motor has fired up? The starter clutch will allow the shell and sprocket to spin freely so you won't hurt anything trying this and the BCM has a timer that will disable the solenoid if you press too long (10 sec IIRC). What if the run switch is off? Do you get the noise when pressing the start button?
Last edited by hamah; Jan 30, 2022 at 01:37 PM.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 399
From: Vancouver, BC
How is your remote turn ons wired? I have my dsp and amps all piggy backed....so the amp comes on first, which turns on my second amp and then lastly my dsp. Then I have that all tied into the aux harness under the RG fairing where the turn signal harness is. Used the harley y connector.
Last edited by hamah; Jan 30, 2022 at 01:39 PM.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 5,749
Likes: 1,603
From: High Point, NC.
Not to be picky as obviously you're setup is working fine but you have that backwards. You should run the ACC power to the remote in on the DSP (I think you're using a DSR-1 right?) and then daisy-chaining the DSP remote out to the remote in on the amps. You want the amps powered on last and turned off first for best practice.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 25
Likes: 10
From: Spokane, WA
Going through all of these options it appears that when the starter is pressed it cuts the radio out and sends the starter sound through the system the entire time the button is depressed. I was talking with my buddy who is helping me and we were thinking of wiring in a relay to cut power to the HU when the starter is pressed and then once it is no longer pressed will allow power to flow back to the system, which would alleviate the issue.