I've got one of those and it works pretty good. A lot easier to use than my old Tektronix CRT scope I've got left over from the early nineties.

 

ok guys, thanks for all the replies. I just got back from Daytona bike week, so I had many miles to listen to this system.

It sounds a whole lot better at 4 notches below full volume. No distortion and not as bright as 3 notches below, the sound is warmer and fuller at 4 notches.

So, I need to retune. Should I :

A) Target for 200w at 4 notches below full volume?
B) Go for somewhere between 150-175 at 3 notches below full volume?

When I used my Oscope with the 1khz -5db test tone I saw no signs of clipping with 3 notches below full volume. I honestly think this problem is due to the RF flash. I think if I went with a DSP or the 8/2 flash I wouldn’t have this problem. But since the RF flash does boost lower frequency a bit ( less than the stock flash) I think trying to push 200w is just too much.

My old set up had yellow baskets but I had a sound stream HU. I’m trying to get the same sound with this GTS HU and I don’t think I can without a DSP

 

Get a DSP, only real way you will be able to cap the higher frequencies at ideal volume. this will also make it sound more fuller since the highs arent screaming and over powering the mid levels. I would stay with the flattest flash possible and use the amp and DSP for tuning.

 

Concur. I have the Mini HKI and absolutely love it for the size and capabilities. Also had a Dayton Audio DSP-408 which was very good as well

 

Most of the systems I have done using the GTS HU 4 bars from full is the cleanest sound and most balanced with the RF flash.
The HD HUs start doing crazy **** at 3 bars from full and higher. This has been verified by an RTA.
If you are getting the sound and volume out of your system at 4 bars from full you have found the sweet spot of your equipment combo for now.

 

Thanks babyboy. I’m going to retune at 4 bars and 175 watts.

 

This is my speaker after maybe 20 hours of use. Ugh! I honestly thought I was being conservative going 200w and crossed at 100hz. I’ll have to go back and check everything but I’m still convinced it’s the RF tune. Obviously I’m a complete audio novice, still learning here but this was an expensive mistake.

 

Yeah that's definitely not from 200w...unless you had it crossed significantly less than 80hz.

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I've often wondered about the GZ yellow basket coax power handling. Their website says 100 Watts RMS and 250 Watts peak. That seems to be a pretty broad range. I've been running mine for over three years at 150 Watts at 60 Hz and haven't had any problems.

Also glad to hear about the four bar from the top ceiling of the GTS. I'll try to keep that in mind when I make future changes.

 

I remember there was another thread with a picture of a GZ yellow that looked just like this.